Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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I certainly don't advocate blocking the climb for hours. Toproping is not rude or selfish in its own right, people are.
Ask yourself which will occupy these routes longer:
Toprope climb of Aries in one single 60m shot from the RR anchors or a fledgling leader/follower pair breaking it down into four short pitches? I took my wife to GNS once on a weekday when no one was there and after we rapped off from the RR anchor I TRd Aries in 3-4 minutes and then we pulled the rope. It would have taken over 10 times longer to lead/follow it.
If others ask to climb one of the routes you're toproping on you could let them climb your rope or flip it out onto another route so that they can lead on through.
I'm not sure why, but toproping has about as much stigma here as picking your nose (sometimes useful but don't let anyone see you). I love leading, but as a newbie I benefitted a lot from the time I put in climbing and setting up topropes. I TRd a lot of routes at Traprock CT that I could not have climbed otherwise given my abilities at the time. I still enjoy toproping climbs that are a beyond my limit. Now you get 'crags' like the Gritscone covered in bolts on a 25ft high rock band with a short, easy trail to the top. Maybe Ken Nichols, for all his anarchist violent acts, was on to something. OK, I'll stop there...
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Look at that landscape. What else are you going to do?
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Go early for GNS as it is always crowded.
You might take 2 60m ropes and lead from the ground all the way to the GNS bolt anchors (via GNS) in a single long pitch (minimal ropedrag). Then you can set up your 2 60m ropes on a sliding X, lower or rap back to the ground and toprope anything from GNS to Aries from that anchor, climbing from the ground all the way to the bolts. Then you can try all the routes to your heart's content. Try to set your anchor so that others can still access the bolts/chains.
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Sorry to hear of your injury, but an x-ray image is required for verification purposes.
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Your posts come off like you're expounding with great authority, yet your original post indicates this is your first trip ever to Static Point. You should explore about a bit more before proclaiming what's best or what needs to be done. At the very least it would be nice if you qualified your statements to indicate your incomplete knowledge.
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I think you're sugar coating that pill!
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What would RumR say?!?
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Send a pm to Triggerhappy. His SO is a graphic designer.
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Sadly, everybody loses in these situations.
I remember an incident at Echo Summit near Tahoe where some teens trundled a huge boulder that flattened a hiker. I believe one or both were eventually convicted of manslaughter or negligent homicide or something.
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Plenty of free sites way up the valley, but they are not close to the climbing areas.
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Going 1 km perpendicular to the radius would cause a change in altitude of
sqrt(6000^2+1^2)-6000, which is approximately sqrt((6000+1/12000)^2)-6000, which is 1/12000 km, or about 83 cm.
Pythagoras to the rescue!
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The what?
What's the point of putting up routes if you won't let others climb them?
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That red van is a pimpin ride. Needs a custom paintjob of eagles and lakes, though. I know a place in Darrington...
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I have a helpful set of commandments of my own that I will humbly submit for Moses and his ilk:
1. If you see a trip report that does not interest you, ignore it.
2. If by some accident you happen to find yourself in the midst of a TR that does not appeal to you for any reason, avail yourself of the "back" button on your browser and move onto something else.
Shalom.
Amen!
More TRs, regardless or quality and content, is a good thing IMHO.
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Gear review without links to buy the gear? That would be silly.
I am glad to hear Colin is getting some $ for this. He clearly worked hard to put that piece together and it's very professional. Way to go CC for helping support our local hero!
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I look forward to the answer. It would probably be helpful to know their history and have a hammer to test them. When I clip pitons I only mentally count them as half a piece or less.
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Goddard and Neumann's "Performance Rock Climbing" is an excellent book IMHO. It spends a lot of time on mental and psychological aspects of climbing, but also talks about technique and training. You can get it used off Amazon pretty cheap.
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Great pics and TR.
I'll put that on the list for next year. Still hoping to get to Slesse in a few weeks...
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I've watched the Sharma video several times. I find it inspiring on several levels. Couldn't get the Graham video link to work.
There is no substitute for hard work and perseverance.
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I agree with Lizard.
The first time I descended Stuart we went down those upper slabs farther down the ridge line. We ended up downclimbing past rap stations and scrambling down dirty 4th class to snow. I will not do that again. Last time we dropped off the shoulder/false summit very high and that was much better.
Creek crossing is a non-issue. You will welcome the water at that point!
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2 years ago Gene and I walked in via the Sharkfin col. The Boston glacier might be easy to traverse in early season, but by now it will be a gigantic maze of crevasses.
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Has the french lab cleared you of any doping concerns?
If not, Floyd may have a lawyer for you...
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Baptized by the Pickets!
One can only imagine the mental state when the decision was made to ditch the pack...I am glad you both made it out safely.
My Pickets trip of 03 is still the most amazing and challenging climbing trip I've done. Suffering is underrated.
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Hey Boss,
Can you tell us why the diet thread isn't in fitness?
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January 19th, 2009 (when the admin changes over).
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Now picking jaw up off floor...
an old guy and the rock warriors way
in Climber's Board
Posted
Great post. I had a similar experience in Tuolumne meadows leading Phobos (twin hand cracks on a vertical wall).
I've found inspiration in Goddard/Neumann's Performance Rock Climbing. About two thirds of the book is on mental aspects. I used to think getting better was about getting stronger, but even that comes down to mental factors (being disciplined to train, to develop and execute a good training plan, to best utilize the strength one does have etc etc.
You've inspired me to read Ilgner's book. Thanks.