Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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See 'not in a day' thread.
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CBS, did you flake on the Dtown party?
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PM sent.
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Roger that, Ross. Hopefully Squamish in September!
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whatever. He said he saw Slesse from that vantage in his TR. I haven't looked at the map to know if it's feasible.
Why don't you go embed a disposable gps in the upper snow there next year mr. geo, and then we can monitor real time.
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I've been wanting to do the grand wall for some time now, but am not strong enough to lead sustained trad 11a yet. Perhaps Triggerhappy may be for me what Hansel is for Porter
DHLA is not as long as you might guess. p1 is 90ft. p2 is 100ft (we strung them together with a 60m rope. p3 is about 110ft (that's why people have trouble rapping it w/a single 60). p4 is 70-80ft. p5 is slightly longer, and p6 (5.9) is about 50-60ft. Next time, I'll probably link the last two pitches, though standing on that last ledge
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tlinn, could you see it from the Steinbock-Ibex col?
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Climbed with rope. Walked down good trail. No sweat (actually, lots of sweat on p2!). Great day out!
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DH to LA today. What a fabulous route! Scrumpdelicious day!
sickie 
All anchors are >= 2 bolts + chains. There is one hangerless stud in need of a wench and some screwing
at the very top of the cliff on Lovin Arms, but there are 3 other bolts nearby, 2 with chains. Also, there is a bolt 1/3 of the way up the '5.9R' last pitch of LH. There are also opportunities for natural pro on this short pitch so IMHO the R rating is no longer warranted.btw, the walkoff is easy as pie.
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Cool. Thanks. That means no backing off!
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walk off?
That would be fine. Shoes are much lighter than a second rope. Any beta?
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So...can we get by with a single 60 for DHLA or do we need a second rope (don't have a 70)?
This thread says no, this one (Layton) says yes: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=31&Number=672154&Searchpage=1&Main=50411&Words=davis&topic=0&Search=true#Post672154
Leaving in the morning...
Thanks
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Anchor status? Heading out tomorrow am.
Actually, hangers sold at MEC say Lucky on them (including ones I've placed). No engraving required, just change your cc handle.
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Trip: Garfield - Infinite Bliss drive-through
Date: 8/18/2007
Trip Report:
Saturday Trog and I went up this route. Temps were cool, clouds swirled, but the weather held and we had a great day. Everything went quite smoothly thanks to beta from a few generous souls. I've tried to capture some of that info below.
I have been asked to to remind you
that rock climbing is dangerous, this route could be dangerous, there is no guarantee that information in these images is correct or complete or will protect you from injury or death, and you should use your own good judgment to protect yourself and others.This route is in an ecologically sensitive area so please tread lightly and be safe.
p11.
Swirling in the mist around p13.
The upper slab (view from anchor 16 toward partner at anchor 17, headwall beyond)
p19.
Moves to the final anchor.
Rope management 101.
Beta that we hope will help keep you on route and out of trouble (topo removed by request so you'll have to settle for the text version):
Pitches 14-17 are easy, low-angle, and loose, and they are a source of confusion and concern for many parties. This section is worth enduring because the last pitches (18-23) are arguably the best of the climb. Anchors 15, 16, 17 are currently tagged with red webbing (not visible from the base at all).
It is >60m between 15 & 16 anchors. Anchor 15 is on an indistinct ledge that cuts across the bottom of a giant, broken slab. A large bush is up and right of anchor 15 by about 50 feet. It has slings on it. If you follow the 'ledge' rightward past the first bush you will see a lone second bush that also has slings. Anchor 16 is almost directly above this upper bush (upper bush smaller than lower bush). Anchor 17 is a full ropelength above and slightly left of anchor 16 (see photo).
To ascend this section without unroping there are several options:
1 Climb 60m from anchor 15 to the upper bush (slings, rap rings). Then climb to anchor 16.
2 Simulclimb from anchor 15 to anchor 16 by clipping the slings on the bushes as intermediate protection (a few gear placements also possible).
To descend without unroping, rap 200ft from upper bush to 15 anchor or downclimb/hike.
Other notes:
Step left at start of p21 and go up a corner system (see photo). The chains at anchor 21 are rumored to bind the rope on rappel. Leave biner on right chain to avoid this.
Our attempt to rap from anchor 11 to anchor 10 resulted in a rope stuck in a nasty flake. We had to reclimb p11 (seen below) to get it. To avoid this fate, rap 200ft from anchor 12 to the ledge at base of p11, then scramble 3rd class down to anchor 10.
Gear Notes:
Rope, Qdraws, beta.
Approach Notes:
STAY ON THE TRAIL past the creekbed, past the first spot where you see the upper wash, past the high point in the woods, to the end of the traverse in the woods, down to a ledge near the waterfall at the foot of a huge cliff. Look for the first bolt on a rock step to the right of the waterfall.
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Wish I were free...
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Nice TR. I've hiked Katahdin many times but never from that side. Mmmm popovers!
Maine summers rock!
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Guess you guys are just a bunch of moss-hugging smiley faces. I grew up on the East Coast and love the cool damp air, but I also love to climb dry rocks...
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Superfly? If so, I'll take the wiregates.
PM sent.
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a cloud of mosquitoes buzzing and biting when you're trying to belay on a small ledge...
heavy, warm rain in the mountains in January right before your long-planned trip to Whistler...
crying kids needing attention when you and your SO are just starting to get into some really nice adult activities...
OK, your turn to lament the crappy climbing weather!
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Great post. I had a similar experience in Tuolumne meadows leading Phobos (twin hand cracks on a vertical wall).
I've found inspiration in Goddard/Neumann's Performance Rock Climbing. About two thirds of the book is on mental aspects. I used to think getting better was about getting stronger, but even that comes down to mental factors (being disciplined to train, to develop and execute a good training plan, to best utilize the strength one does have etc etc.
You've inspired me to read Ilgner's book. Thanks.
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I certainly don't advocate blocking the climb for hours. Toproping is not rude or selfish in its own right, people are.
Ask yourself which will occupy these routes longer:
Toprope climb of Aries in one single 60m shot from the RR anchors or a fledgling leader/follower pair breaking it down into four short pitches? I took my wife to GNS once on a weekday when no one was there and after we rapped off from the RR anchor I TRd Aries in 3-4 minutes and then we pulled the rope. It would have taken over 10 times longer to lead/follow it.
If others ask to climb one of the routes you're toproping on you could let them climb your rope or flip it out onto another route so that they can lead on through.
I'm not sure why, but toproping has about as much stigma here as picking your nose (sometimes useful but don't let anyone see you). I love leading, but as a newbie I benefitted a lot from the time I put in climbing and setting up topropes. I TRd a lot of routes at Traprock CT that I could not have climbed otherwise given my abilities at the time. I still enjoy toproping climbs that are a beyond my limit. Now you get 'crags' like the Gritscone covered in bolts on a 25ft high rock band with a short, easy trail to the top. Maybe Ken Nichols, for all his anarchist violent acts, was on to something. OK, I'll stop there...
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Look at that landscape. What else are you going to do?
DHLA>Grand Wall ??
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Blake,
On the last LA pitch just follow your nose. After you clip the bolt you can go straight up and then left a bit, finishing about 6ft right of the leftmost tree. That's where the bolts/rap station are. There is plenty of pro available for that pitch so I don't think it's R now that it has the bolt.
On the second to last pitch of LA, the upper traverse is obvious, as is the lower one. There is plenty of pro. The lower traverse bolt has a nasty sling on it (for A0 or bailing?). We just did the upper traverse.
Lastly, you could easily link these two pitches of LA, as they are not that long.
Have fun!
R