Rad
-
Posts
2928 -
Joined
-
Days Won
25
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Rad
-
-
Can someone who's been comment on this gym? I'm planning to be up there next week and was hoping to get a bouldering workout and belay the kids for a few hours at some point. Is it good enough for that?
Thx
-
He's on Facebook, occasionally posts here, and you may be able to reach him through his blog: http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/
-
I like the shot of the belayer waving with both hands while standing 30+ feet back from the base with a huge loop of slack.
-
-
Not sure what you mean by french. Clip qdraw to bolt. Clip long sling on bolt. Clip lead rope into qdraw. Stand in long sling. Clip new qdraw to next bolt. Repeat. Clip yourself to qdraw or long sling at any point to rest. No etriers needed. No free moves required at all.
-
-
The Grand Wall .... How hard is it really?
I'm not sure that bolt ladder has ever gone free. The free Grand goes right at the top of the Sword pitch out that undercling (called the Underfling). Then it climbs a crux slab pitch (13b?) up and left to the anchors at the base of Perry's. Check out some great photos of Mark doing it last year. Don't have link handy.
Yes, just take a few quickdraws and a couple of extendable slings you can stand in and that bolt ladder will go fast. It's short.
-
I dropped a quick five pounds on the fabulous 'stomach-flu diet'!
Dry heaves is a serious ab workout too
-
haha, I came up with the Rad Moc name in the Madrock/rc.com naming contest 5-6 years ago.
Yep, the LA attorneys are at your door right now with a cease and desist letter. D'oh!
-
yikes! yep, stainless is the only way to go. thanks for doing repairs.
-
Relationships where one person expects the other person to become/grow into something he/she is not are storms waiting to happen. You need to find someone you love and respect for who they are today.
It's not the one red flag in a relationship that you missed that leads to trouble. It's the 358 red flags that you tried to pretend were green or orange that get you into trouble.
Cynical, the first day of the rest of your life is TODAY. Not tomorrow. TODAY. Be the change you want to see in your world.
-
Neil Armstrong left footprints on the moon. Fucking dick...
It was a siege ascent too. First alpine style human powered moon shot byfairmeans ascent is still up for grabs.
Actually, I think it was capsule style!
-
Lama clearly isn't making any friends with this nonsense, (although maybe Red Bull is making him rich) but that last bit in Colin's blog post about gym climbers was a little harsh. I hope he was trying to be funny. Many climbers that come from the gym go on to do great things. (Alex Honnald comes to mind)
Bigotry in climbing serves no useful purpose that I can see....
I have a dream that one day this community will rise up and live out the true meaning of its creed: "We hold these truths to be self-evident: that all climbers are created equal"...
I have a dream that one day the sons and daughters of sport climbers and trad climbers will climb together at the gyms, crags, and mountains of this majestic realm...
I have a dream that one day my three children will live in a world where they will not be judged by whether clip bolts or place hexes or carry crashpads but by the content of their character....
(adapted from MLKJr).
-
Many seem to miss the point that objections to Lama's plan (including Colin's) this year relate to his intention to place bolts on rappel rather than ground-up on lead. As Dberdinka points out, rapping in to place protection bolts to create free variations of big walls is standard practice in Yosemite and elsewhere. I won't opine on what's right or wrong, but it seems unlikely El Cap would have so many free routes without this tactic.
Gene makes a good point that the ethics of a crag/region should prevail. From a bystander's perspective, it seems that the Cerro Torre area of Patagonia bears similarities to Yosemite and WA pass in our own domain. It's got long granite routes that attract climbers from around the world at certain times of the year. As happened in Yosemite, the major crack systems that mark lines of weakness are being climbed first. The question is whether you stop there or allow bolt-protected free routes on faces, and if so under what style (power vs hand and on lead vs on rappel.
In some ways, I'd be more interested to hear Tommy Caldwell's perspective than Colin's on this particular issue, as Caldwell has pioneered routes like this in Yosemite where Colin has not, as far as I am aware.
Bolts are now part of climbing, just as pitons and other fixed gear were before them. Vigorous debate and when/where/how to use bolts should definitely happen, preferably in a constructuve way, but we cannot turn back the clock to an era before bolts any more than we can turn back to an era before dynamic ropes or SLCDs or sticky rubber etc etc etc.
-
pot is a gateway drug to sport climbing
-
...I'm currently stayin' on top of summitchaser's thread...
What happened to that guy? This place could use some humor again!
-
Some of the bolts and anchors on Reptiles and Jug or Not were pretty scary, with rusty chain links notched into grooves in the rock, levering on old expansion bolts. If/when it's time for anchor replacement on these or other routes I'll come help, or at least throw down some coin for hardware. Thanks again.
-
Time for the alternative perspective you "open-minded" blokes won't tolerate. As if your self-gratifying, "free-stylin'", sport-bolting wasn't bad enough, you brag about replacing the fixed draws.
Consider this but I'm sure most of you won't because it addresses your dumbed-down, leave a big trace version of "climbing" as less them "sporting".
a) fixed draws only emphasize the fact that the climb is too difficult for you because you aren't able to clip and remove your own garbage.
b) you're taking chances anytime you clip someone else's stuff or jug their fixed lines. Your choice! There are a growing number of cases that prove this true.
c) read the interesting comments about "PermaDraws" in the latest Rock 'n Ice. Not everyone thinks the concept is cool.
Every crag develops its own community, ethics, and style, which may change over time. If you want a voice on how things are run, show up and lead by example.
-
you know ANYONE can swap out fixed draws or hardware. if you use it you should be part of the solution as well as the problem. why not carry some of that crap in your own pack and spend a few minutes replacing things you find scary or crap!
Good point. I have invested my time and hardware, though mostly on different crags. And you?
Orion, thanks. It's the one that protects the crux that looked like it was wearing thin. Just needs a new quicklink.
-
Most climbing gym workers are arrogant s.o.bs. in my experience
Not what I've seen in Seattle, at least in setters. The ones I've met climb hard and work hard and go out of their way to help climbers of all abilities.
If you get poor customer service somewhere let the management know about it. Flaming on the internet doesn't solve anything.
-
Thanks for the service, Orion. The quicklink on the draw on Bust the Move was pretty scary.
-
The gym is a good place to get strong, so have fun. If a particular 5.10 is their test, then you have a goal. Go get it!
-
Colin's Alpinist piece on similar themes was superb.
-
the social aspect alone is well worth getting your license. get on a repeater and yakity yak about your antennae and your rig.
If you want to talk with the older generation go down to the VA hospital and talk to nice folks who really know what service means...
the Core gym in Whistler - any good?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Went today. I generally agree with Jens, but here are two additional thoughts:
1 - this gym is actually quite good for young kids as the roped areas have lots of holds fairly closely spaced. Kids had lots of fun, anyway. Roped routes are about 20ft tall, so length is not their strong suit.
2 - I went back in the evening for my bouldering workout. Yikes! I've never been to a more sandbagged gym, and I've been to a fair number. Example: long lock-off on a sloper to reach a crimp sidepull, high step and reach to sloper at full extension, put foot on hold that feels too low and dyno/campus for another crimp as feet cut off...on V2! I'm 6' with a +3 ape index, and I felt short in this gym. Every V1 and up had at least one dynamic move or super long static move. Injury potential is high. But the staff are definitely friendly.