Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Sweet! fra = first rat ascent?
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I was once convinced to get these two sizes too small and they were so painful I couldn't wear them. Perhaps one size would have done it. In any case, down-turned shoes seem best suited to micro-edging and overhangs. I find it really hard to smear in them because they are so stiff, and foot jams were excruciating. DHLA and the Grand (haven't been on your Ellation yet) are mostly smearing and footjams, so I'm not sure you need a downturned shoe there. But others may disagree.
I like the Scarpa Techno for multipitch trad as it is pretty good at edging, thin jamming, and smearing. The shoe I love best and save for special occasions is the the Evolv Pontas. It's great at all of these plus heelhooks etc.
Some may say shoes need to hurt to work well, but I find it hard to focus my mind on climbing when my feet are in agony.
Whatever you get, consider buying at REI so you can return them if you are unhappy. Good luck.
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COMMENTS IN BOLD
"So specifically the routes are between Side Dish and (i think)Underground Economy. From left to right, one was a 5.6 slab/with a 10ish overhang second pitch." SOUNDS LIKE JIFFY POP AND RAT FACE. JP IS THE FIRST PITCH - RATED 5.7 BUT SEEMS EASIER. RAT FACE IS THE SECOND PITCH, RATED 10C. SUPPOSEDLY, THERE IS A 12B ABOVE THAT.
"In the middle was an overhanging 11a." MAYBE THIS IS NEW. I'D LIKE TO CHECK IT OUT. OVERTURE IS AN 11A ROUTE RIGHT OF UNDERGROUND ECONOMY THAT CAN BE CLIMBED STRAIGHT FROM THE TRESTLE TO AN ANCHOR ABOVE A GIANT ROOF A WAYS UP. THE LOWER HALF AVOIDS A SCRAMBLE AND AIRY BELAY, BUT THE CLIMBING DOWN LOW IS MEDIOCRE. THE UPPER HALF IS EXCELLENT.
"And to the right a 5.9 stemming route." THIS MAY ALSO BE NEW.
I did see an old route up higher but couldn't figure out where it went.
Someone has taken time to re-bolt several routes out there. Thanks and its about time. DITTO
If anyone knows who has extra bolts and anchors to change them all out, I'm down for spending a few days getting em all done! Got a few friends who said they would help too. PM ME AND MAYBE WE CAN GET OUT THIS FALL.
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The permit system helps protect a fragile environment from being trampled, trashed, and pooped-upon. If everyone believed they were above the law the loser would be the Enchantments. That's the party line, but I think it's also the truth.
That said, I've done my share of commando camping (though not in the Enchantments). One of my guiding principles is that it should be undetectable in all senses - to policing agents, to other resource users, and to the environment (pack it ALL out).
Discussing tactics on the internet is just plain dumb. You might as well post details about your next delivery of BC marijuana, IRS tax evasion techniques, and the like while you're at it.
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Nope. I've seen pics posted here but don't have a link handy for you.
If you're looking for something shady and away from crowds you could hike 7 minutes up the trail to these routes.
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At 19, you're still immortal. Hopefully you'll survive that stage. I'm glad I did.
I recently rented a Sat phone for a trip and had a good experience. I called in from peaks twice to say goodnight to the kids (not needed, but nice). I met someone on a peak who borrowed it to change a boat pickup day, giving them an extra day for an added adventure. I was curious so we tested in several spots whether we could get a signal. It worked on ridges in all kinds of weather but didn't work in the forest.
A recent party on Shuksan could have prevented a helicopter rescue/assist if they had phone or other non-emergency signaling device - but then it sounded like they needed the assistance anyway.
I haven't tried SPOT and am not tempted to buy one.
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I'm curious if most or all of the groups that go to Boston Basin are climbing.
Also, I don't understand why the trail is so crappy (I haven't been in a few years so am just going from reports from others this year). If the rangers are going up and down a lot and this area is popular, why isn't the trail better maintained?
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Buddy of mine did the Sherpa descent about a month ago and he said it was steep hard snow downclimbing and a PITA to get past the bergshrund. It has likely only gotten much worse.
Boadman has the classic late season option nailed.
Have fun! The 5.9 pitch on the lower NR is really fun.
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Nice trip.
Maybe start a thread on suggestions for North Cascades rangers and permits - try to include both good things to keep and things that need to be changed. I or someone else can steer this to the attention of the powers there.
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Style points scored.
That billboard could spark a lot of interesting conversations.
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Excellent adventure and report.
These two sentences nicely capture the Pickets experience:
"As usual, the crux of the day was not what we had anticipated."
and
"...constantly being challenged, mentally and physically, by no fall zones, weather, steep terrain and long days, along with very little sleep in the same time period was starting to wear on us."
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A harness is the first purchase for most climbers. Not owning one suggests you haven't climbed much at all, if ever. In that case, you should consider hiring a guide or staying on terrain that doesn't require roping up (e.g. South Ridge of Adams).
To summit Rainier you have to obtain a climber's permit, which involves interviewing with the rangers, who will assess the abilities and experience of your climbing team. This screening may seem annoying, but it might help keep people off the upper mountain who seem likely to end up in trouble.
So even if you get a harness and rope, you'll need to convince the Rainier climbing rangers that you know what you're doing.
Be safe and have fun.
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Heading out this Sunday afternoon. PM if you'd like to link for a tour.
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"I thought about Colleen, who I would see very soon, and the summit, which I would never see again. There has to be a last time for everything, and enough time to bask in summer’s imperfect warmth. If this requires leaving the colossi to rage against the purifying wind on their own, so be it."
Never say never. I never do.
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It would probably be a good idea for members of the climbing community (i.e. you) to reach out pro-actively to the local Sheriff's Office and explain the history of this climbing site and its importance to the local climbing community. The Sheriff is likely to be more level-headed and long-term minded than the local press, and will have a strong influence on local mandates and projects. Seeing climbers act responsibly and pro-actively, perhaps by putting up warning signage or even erecting a cable with warnings, would send a strong, positive message to the powers that be.
This is not a local thing so I can't participate, but engagement of the climbing community in a positive way could be valuable.
Good luck.
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Nice job, but it sounds like you missed the improbably traverse section, which is supposed to be the best part of the climb. Perhaps right out on the face when you went up the 5.9 crack? I haven't been on this route and descriptions have not enticed me to do it.
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It's not the fault of these agencies they're put in this position. If they were given a budget they might not have to do this, but...
Simple solution: park outside the parking lot on the road. I see more and more cars doing it at different locations. Problem is it still leaves the parks without any $
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Yes, I'm all for self-reliance. In NOCA, registration for climbing is voluntary. Take it or leave it. Registration for overnight/camping permits is mandatory. The thing is, by registering for the latter you often give them a date when you're coming out, which can also trigger searches if you're overdue.
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One of the things Kelly has said is that when you do the volunteer climber's registration MAKE SURE YOU SIGN OUT! They track down every single one of those cases.
On mountain trips, which have sadly been less frequent since kids, I tell my spouse not to call for help until at least noon on the day AFTER we say we'll get out. That way we can bivy if needed and come out the next morning without worrying about someone calling in a rescue.
SPOT and other systems provide a cheaper alternative to buying a sat phone. There are pros and cons each way. Climber 9-1-1 But I think people are starting to appreciate that these devices are not just used to bail you out of trouble. They can save a lot of headaches, allow you to reschedule a Ross Lake pickup (as a party did we met on the summit of Challenger), or allow you to wish your spouse a happy anniversary when you're on a climbing trip, which I did last time out. Gotta keep the boss happy. :kisss:
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Wonderful! I hope to be tramping around with my kids as we all get older too.
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If you get stung by a bee you may see something on your skin at the site. DON'T squeeze it as it may be a poison sac. Scrape it off with a knife or fingernail to minimize the chance extra venom will be injected into you.
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Fun insect facts:
Bees and hornets don't bite you. They sting by injecting venom from a modified ovipositor (egg laying tube) on their abdomens (butts).
Bees (honey, bumblebee) have barbs in their stingers, so after they inject venom in you their abdomen is ripped apart. They die shortly afterward. Bees use their sting as a last resort defense. Away from their nest, they will only sting you if you step or sit on them. They will defend their next like kamikazes. Bees eat nectar in flowers. Pollen rides on their legs and backs from flower to flower to fertilize them. They don't eat or collect pollen.
Wasps (locals include white-faced hornets and yellow jackets) do not have barbs and can use their stingers to hunt insects and other small prey. They are scavengers who love summer picnics. They do not die after they sting you and can sting repeatedly. They are often more aggressive than bees.
Wasp colonies generally grow in size throughout the summer, peaking in September. This is why you're more likely to get stung in August than June.
Not all bees and wasps live in colonies. Not all bees and wasps can sting.
My dad studied bees. As a youth I went on a few collecting trips, moved some African bee hives, etc.
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It's possible to rent a sat phone pretty cheap these days - either online or at a place on Westlake in Seattle.
Petzl helmet left high on Sloan corkscrew trail
in Lost and Found
Posted
We went up Sloan on Sunday 9/11 and I accidentally left my helmet on the corkscrew trail. It is on SW side of the mountain, past the South Face traverse section and before the final scent to the summit. There is a bit of a dip in the trail there. Would love to get it back. Thanks!
Rad