susan

If you want some climbing, try Cochise Stronghold, East or West side. East side is especially empty at outer edge

Partner found. thanks.

Weather looks sunny Leavenworth and Tieton starting tomorrow. Looking for a partner for 1 or more days. I can lead 5.9, low 10 trad and sport. Can follow harder. Have lots of experience and gear. You can email me directly at hoodin1 at hotmail.com Susan

I'd like to just know where the wall is. I've heard about it and looked for it, but never found it.

Here are some photos, I think I figured out how to post them. Well, I guess not. I tried to photo icon but that seems to have sent stuff to the gallery. I did a search but didn't find what I need in the way of help for dummies.

I have a few pictures of the crags, the rain limited the picture taking on the route in Hell's Gate. I'll look into how to upload some later today.

Trip: kenya - Hell's Gate and Lukenya Date: 3/7/2010 Trip Report: Adventures of a Visiting Climber (No picnic in Hell’s Gate) I had a short term consultancy in Nairobi and desperately wanted to be able to climb some during the month I would be in Nairobi. I thought about flying to South Africa to climb but tickets were expensive, so I tried the Mountain Club of Kenya forum site to see if it was worth bringing a harness and shoes, but to no avail. I finally decided to take a pair of shoes but no harness with me. After almost two weeks of sitting in front of my laptop in an apartment in Hurlingham I found a personal e-mail address of some guy named Alex. I sent a brief note saying I had experience mountaineering, ice climbing, cragging and on big walls. Much to my delight he replied and said to get in touch later in the week and we would plan something. Little did I know what I was in for, but I was glad I had over 30 years of experience in all types of climbing before the weekend was over. I met Alex and his wife Paula in Karen at the Nakumat. After a few last minute errands, we all set off for Hell’s Gate including a visiting Brit, Johnny, who went with us for one last day of climbing before he flew home to the snow and cold in England. It was an interesting drive to Hell’s Gate. I’ve traveled in many countries but the highway rules, or lack thereof, in Kenya are particularly interesting. I did marvel at the views of the Rift Valley, giant euphorbs and the 2-lane road with 3 cars abreast. We arrived at Hell’s Gate around noon. Several other climbers were already climbing on the short walls across from Fisher Tower. We dropped off Paula and Johnny there, but Alex had other plans for us. He suggested a direct line, Saturn, up the Main Wall, a 600 foot volcanic columnar feature. He said he had never gotten the first pitch clean and wanted another crack at it, even though he didn’t really bother about such things. I smiled, nodded and said sure, why not. He dropped me off to carry the gear to the base while he drove the car to the campsite so we could just walk back to the camp. I’ve spent a lot of time in Latin America in rainforests full of fer-de-lance vipers but couldn’t help but wonder what I didn’t know about African snakes that I was glad I didn’t know as I bushwacked to the base of the climb with all the gear. Alex had brought a harness and helmet for me, and just before we left the other climbers I remembered to ask for a belay device (something that in the future I will remember to carry with me). It was pretty hot waiting for Alex to get back to the base but just as he arrived, the sun moved off the wall which was good, ignoring the fact that it meant it was getting a bit late. Alex had said something flippant as I left the car about the possibility of an epic. What foresight! The rains had come early in 2010 and there were clouds about but I thought maybe we would be spared. Pitch 1 was pretty hard. I tried my best to ignore the rich aroma of bird droppings and how the rope was being dragged through guano deposits. I also tried to minimize the potential relevance of the story Alex had told me about when Jim Donini, Kitty Calhoun and others had showed up to the Main Wall and declared it a pile of bird-shit covered choss not worth climbing. Did they know something I didn’t? I spent my time belaying eying the triangular flake crucial to the crux and wondering what it trajectory might be if it peeled off. The pitch itself was bit overhanging, strenuous and a bit tricky. I made it through the crux, flake intact, but took a small slip a bit further along. As the visitor, I was slumming and was happy to have Alex lead all the pitches, especially when I saw the size of his rack!, which is to say minimal. Due to the lack of pieces Alex took a pretty long fall on Pitch 2 and we decided it was wiser to backclean a piece so he could protect the fall site. That involved some very delicate climbing off the belay on my part, self belaying and cleaning a piece and then downclimbing and rerigging the belay. With the difficult area better protected, Alex pulled through without any trouble. Pitch 3 looked very hard! Alex is a very ballsy climber and clearly had ballet in his background as I watched him stem up the wall, worrying that I was not only short but not nearly as flexible and wondering how I was going to get up the pitch. I hoped that my predilection for wide cracks and being on top-rope would minimize the need to stem. Turns out I didn’t need to worry since it started to rain as I left the belay and free-climbing quickly became out of the question. Wow, is birdshit every slippery when it gets wet! I aided the pitch in the pouring rain, slowly at first as I only had one long sling, but a bit faster as I cleaned more gear and slings. Alex shouted down that lightning never hit the wall which I was glad to hear (but didn’t really believe) since there was ample thunder and lightning about. Paula and Kasper were at the base of the wall, asking what we planned on doing and suggesting that we come down. It was getting late and it was raining. They wanted to be sure we were okay. Alex had managed to stay pretty dry at the belay, but I arrive soaking wet, covered in bird sheet and my glasses coated white which made visibility a bit dodgy. Alex didn’t really like the spot we were in for retreating and made two attempts to start up the next pitch but backed off. At this point we had two choices, rapping off the not so great looking rock at the belay or giving the pitch another go. At least it had stopped raining so Alex said he would try one more time and succeeding in rounding the corner. The pitch was pretty fun and not quite as hard as earlier ones. The fun never ends on this climb. The last pitch starts with a delicate downclimb and traverse on birdshit covered rock. It was still a bit damp from the rain but not too bad. The exit chimney was fun but a bit dark by the time I got to it. We topped out just as the sun was setting. Of course, we had no headlamps but we did have a full moon which cast shadows. We overshot the trail down and did some backtracking but managed to get to camp safely. Paula and Kirsten had set up my tent, thank you, thank you, thank you and started on dinner. Alex said I probably did the first female ascent to which I replied, that’s because Kitty Calhoun is a lot smarter than I am. Even if it wasn’t the first female ascent I’m sure it was the first part free, part aid, in the pouring rain, walk off in the dark female ascent. I’m not sure which of us were crazier, him for taking a complete stranger up such a thing or me for following it. It was great to get out of my apartment in Nairobi and I really had enjoyed myself. I got to use lots of various tricks and skills and felt much refreshed from all the time spent staring at a computer screen. What a treat to climb, camp, hear hyenas, see grazing exotic (to me) antelope in the morning and get to do more climbing. Alex and Paula and Kirsten and Kasper went off as couples to do a climb in the morning and as the fifth wheel I went for a hike into the canyon. I got a real kick out of driving Kirsten’s and Kaspers’ right hand drive car through the bush. Later in the day, we climbed a few things on Fisher Tower which were a bit drier and more solid than the Main Wall. Nice climbs. I definitely got my moneys’ worth out of Hell’s Gate and thoroughly enjoyed meeting Paula, Alex, Kirsten and Kasper. The next weekend I texted Alex to see if he was going to Mt. Kenya or if he was going to do some cragging. The first message I got back was ‘You want more?!’ I replied, ‘what more could you possibly offer? Crocodiles and poisonous snake?’ Anyway, Alex picked me up at Wilson Airport the next weekend and we went to Lukenya where he gave me a tour of some of the best climbs. As we drove out I asked how the rock was and he said it was nice. I laughed and said no really, what is it like, not really believing him. He replied, ‘ Really it is gneiss’. We did some great climbs that day including one old climb that is very short but has a long pitch worth’s of climbing on it. It was a stellar route. We also did some overhanging sport climbing and some thin face, a varied and fun day. . Since Alex’s day job is leading walking safaris he is very knowledgeable about local plants and animals which I really enjoyed. We saw a solitary love bird, 2 peregrines, a Montague harrier and a superb starling. The nettle TREE was a site to behold for someone used to nettles as small plants. Walking through a thicket of shrubs that was richly fragrant, almost like cintronella, helped remind me that I really was climbing in AFRICA! Fortunately I am apparently not one of the folks who is allergic to them and don’t find them so delightful. I’m certainly game to go back to Kenya and do more climbing. Thanks to everyone I met that let me tag along.

I'd love to get out Sunday if the weather is good. I sent a PM with contact info. Susan

As of last Sunday, still missing. Rumors are that someone is working on the issue.

Weather looks good tomorrow and Wednesday, march 23 and 24. I'd love to get out to one of the exits or Index, Mt Erie, wherever. Email me at hoodin1 at hotmail.com or post reply. I'll get back to you later tonight or tomorrow a.m. Susan

Anyone going to be in Joshua Tree in this time frame? I'm currently on the road and could meet a partner in Joshua Tree in this time frame. It is even possible to give someone a ride back to Seattle as I need to be back in Seattle Jan 17 or so. In other words, a one-way ticket is a possibility. You can email me directly at hoodin1 at hotmail.com Susan

I'm interested. E-mail me. hoodin1 at hotmail.com Susan

Maybe someone with hard numbers will show me wrong but I was there the summer before last and it did not seem any more crowded than when I first went there 30 years ago. I don't think it is really unreasonably crowded there. Even if the number of visitors hasn't changed, it may be that current and past use isn't sustainable in the long term. As to the kneejerk "government is the problem" crowd, it is telling that you blow your ideological horn without any specific knowledge of the environmental impact assessment. it goes without saying that a via ferrata isn't warranted. All I know is that I was there 3 or 4 years ago and there were probably 20 parties at Applebee and this year there were more like 50 parties, and that's not counting the hut or the lower campground. The place was a zoo! My sample of 2 says that yes, it's way more crowded.

Hoping to get out for a few days while the weather is still good. Just back from 4 days in Squamish. Would head back there, Washington Pass, or elsewhere. Leading up to 5.10a trad can follow harder tens. Susan

I've been out of town for a month and want to touch some rock before I go to the Bugaboos on Sunday. Looking for a half-day or so partner on Friday. Susan

I may head to Silverstar Resort over thanksgiving but the snow report is dismal. Does anyone have tips on alpine hikes/climbs in the area. All my BC books are just for SW BC. Interested in ice, rock or mixed. Susan

Panos If the yaks come in time, can I hitch a ride on one? Susan

kellie I've got a guide you can borrow. Eastside is nice, but camping is much better on the west side. Plus you have more larger, longer destinations. Susan

kellie I've got the guide. Susan

No we did Ruth and Icy from Hannegan Pass camp.

Any know if Ruth Mountain is still in ski condition?

Looking for climbing partners for the summer. Regular partners are injured or unavailable, broken toe, tendonitis, jobs, boyfriends etc. Prefer trad but don't mind sport. More or less a 5.10 climber.

I'm looking for a partner for Friday. I've been climbing for years but have been out of the country for 10 weeks so need some rock mileage. E-mail if interested. smbolton@comcast.net

Prices to Bolivia have always been higher than to surrounding countries and there are seldom any major fluctuations in the price. Yes, you can fly to another country and bus but as noted, that takes a LOT of time. I was recently told that one way to get a lower overall rate is to fly to Brazil and then take a 'local' flight to Bolivia.