trad_guy

Hello billcoe- Here is a page I wrote recently, after the new Garmin eTrex-H came on the market: Google: Choose a GPS for mountaineering and the backcountry http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/FAQ_Best_GPS.htm The concept is that a proven, simple GPS that gives you UTM Coordinates, a USGS Quad topo map or equal and a base plate compass, should be used together. The three together cost $136. Buy National Geographic's TOPO for $99. for your computer and you are all set. Carry a common digital cell phone in the Oregon Cascades in case you become stranded because of weather, an injury to yourself or a companion or you are lost because you do not know how to use the three tools together. Carry a new Spot Satellite Messenger if you will be out of cell tower range anywhere in the world. Save hundreds of dollars by avoiding the hype for the more expensive GPS models with simplified 1:100,000 maps (designed for auto tourists), an aneroid based altimeter (to be re-set frequently to the altitude constantly given by every GPS), or an electronic compass (accurate to about 5 degrees, that turns off as soon as you move due to the drain on batteries). As far as I know, every GPS available here uses simple AA or AAA batteries. There is no need for lithium batteries. Of course, you must carry extras. They work in your flashlight too! --trad_guy

Bend Oregon? Here is more than you want to know! Check out all the nearby peaks, Smith Rock and Meadow Crags, all the free stuff to do in town and more. www.TraditionalMountaineering.org

Here are a couple of classic shots of the Terrible Traverse and the Bowling Alley in late summer: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Photos_Marathon.htm There are more shots of this climb in various seasons: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Photomap.htm There are several accounts of accidents as well: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Trips.htm --trad_guy

BD Firstlight 2lb 11oz! Light and fast, (and fit and experienced?).

BD Firstlight. I think this is a picture of the tent: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/News_HouseAnderson.pdf Here are some other suggestions: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Seminar_LitePackn_Gear.pdf --trad_guy

Hello wannabe- The $100 eTrex is a great choice. The "GoTo" window has the name of the Waypoint and the distance there to. Below the pointer circle there is a window that can be changed with the cursor buttons to show many different screens: Bearing, Course, speed, distance covered, etc. Google -best GPS for mountaineering- (without the dashes) to learn more. You can select Set Up, North Refernce, True North, Enter to make your GPS match your map. Use the UTM Coordinant Grid and NAD27 to match your Quad maps. --trad_guy

Hey blueserac- The computer map programs that Jamin is using do not provide the magnetic declination information. Your printed ocean charts do provide the magnetic declination and the annual adjustment too. Again, the printed USGS maps do provide this information, but the good computer programs such as MapTech's Terrain Navigator and National Geographic's Topo do not. Just Google the two words - magnetic declination - and put in your location to get the information and an explanation. --trad_guy

Jamin- The map programs will give you True bearings from a point to a point using the distance tool. You can put a piece of tape on the clear bottom of the bezel of your compass to mark a new "arrow shed". It is called the Tape Arrow Method. The idea is to eliminate mental math when you are under stress, trying to add (or is it subtract) the 17 degrees to make it work with your map. If you do not have a base plate compass, you might find it good to upgrade. Just Google: best compass for mountaineering. (No quotes.) Good Climbing! --trad_guy

Hello SnailEye- Ooops, wrong information. USGS Quad maps (there are over 1,900 in Oregon) are reworked very infrequently. Soon the printed Quads will be phased out and your will be able to get the latest version printed, say from Bend Map and Blueprint in our town. Quad maps print the declination at the time of print release. (This might be 1965). In the fine print the map will note that the declination gets smaller at the rate of one degree every twelve years in the area of Mt. Hood. pindude made a note of this annual change in his post above. Just Google the three words: map compass GPS and read the .pdf document. Tip: do not use quotes when you enter the three word search above. --trad_guy

Hello Jamin- Here is a longer answer to your question "What is the angle of declination on Hood". Magnetic Declination is the angle, east or west, to correct a magnetic compass bearing to match a printed map such as the standard USGS Quad map (for Mt Hood). Quads are printed with True (or geographic) lines. If you are not using a map to obtain you bearings, but just taking visual bearings on a clear day with your compass from say, Illumination Rock to the parking lot at the Timberline Lodge, you do not need to correct for magnetic declination. You can use the magnetic bearing to return down the hill. You must adjust your compass for magnetic declination if your are taking the bearing angle of a line say from Illumination Rock to the center of the Lodge parking lot from the quad map. Each degree of error will be about 94 feet in a mile. Ten degrees off will be 940 feet. Seventeen degrees off will be 1, 598 feet off from the True Bearing in one mile! Your GPS is set by default to magnetic bearings. If you are using your (default) GPS to give you a compass bearing angle from Illumination Rock to your GPS Waypoint (set at your rig in the middle of the Lodge parking lot) you must not use the True bearing on your compass. Use the Magnetic Bearing. To change your GPS to True, go to set-up, north reference and select True. Note the declination that is reported on your GPS when it is set to Magnetic North. You will find it to be 17 degrees as noted by pindude. The recommended way to handle Magnetic Declination is 1. set your GPS to True North and 2. set your compass to True North and 3. use the USGS Quad Map for your climb. To set your compass to True North to match your map and GPS, use the brass micrometer screw on the correct kind of compass. Purchase a $30 Suunto M3D base plate compass, a $100 Garmin eTrex GPS and a $6 GPS. The total cost to these three functional tools is about $136. You will need to learn how to use them together from reading Freedom of the Hills or taking a Mazama, the Mountaineers or similar class. Google the three words map compass GPS and click on the second listed six page PDF Handout to learn more about backcountry navigation on the web. Have I made any errors? Never trust one person in your group with sole responsibility for backcountry navigation! --trad_guy

Hello Aaron- Welcome to Bend Oregon! We settled here in '93 (no, that's 1993). The population was about 13,000. We formed Cascades Mountaineers Alpine Climbing Club in about 1994. The meetings are at 7PM at the Environmental Center on the second Wednesday of each month. The programs are free. Just drop in and meet folks. Here is a link: http://cascadesmountaineers.org/ We started teaching Basic Mountaineering Training at COCC in 1994. There is now a full Credit course in mountaineering. Here is a link: http://www.cocc.edu/ There is a great website covering alpine mountaineering and Bend Oregon. Meet folks at the free seminars in traditional steep snow climbing, crevasse rescue, ice axe arrest and navigation with map, compass and GPS. Here is a link: www.TraditionalMountaineering.org. Mountain biking in Bend is promoted by COTA: Here ya go: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Photos_IMBA_COTA_sm.htm Steve House lives in Bend and he is giving a slide show for local folks. Check the website Calendar: Friday, February 23, 2007, 7PM, Steve House Slide Show on his alpine climb of the Rupal Face! World renowned Alpinist Steve House of Bend Oregon shares his recent iconic climb of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat at Bend High School Auditorium. Tickets available at Therapeutic Associates offices and at Pine Mountain Sports. Read more about Steve House. Print the poster for the Slide Show. See you there! --trad_guy

It is sad to hear of another death on this local peak. Read more about the objective dangers of Three Finger Jack: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Report_Jack_FatalSlip.htm