Eugenian

And one more (hopefully not too annoying) question...how was the 'ol parking situation at the climbers trailhead? The Deschutes NF website makes it sound like there woudln't be room to stash your little sisters bike, let alone park your car...what did you see? Is it going to be tricky this weekend? Thanks again!

Hey Timmy, as usual, primo pics...jealousy inducing as usual... quick question, is it still snow shoe conditions up there for we sloggers without the two planks? I was thinking of wandering up the south side this weekend...just wondering if I should pack the big shoes. Thanks!

I guess this is it...but it seems like there was a more comprehensive report in the past few days: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/conditions/recreport-bdfr-acc.shtml

I'm surprised none of the Bend crew has responded to this, but I'll take a stab at it and if I'm wrong, hopefully one of them will kindly correct me. It says (somewhere, I seem to have a hard time finsing it again) on the Deschutes NF web site that they have begun plowing from the other end of Cascade Lakes Hwy and the road to Elk Lake should be open by the 19th(?). The strecth from Bachelor (past Devils Lake) to Elk lake is scheduled to open Memorial Day Weekend. I hope that helps and that some (more knowledgable) person steps up to correct me if I'm wrong!

What other types of training info are you looking for? More weight-lifting related stuff? That one pretty well covers the cardio/endurance requirements of climbing but only briefly touches on anaerobic training. I was just looking for some additional info, that one is good, just trying to find out what else is out there.

Is the guy from Bellingham calling me a hippie? I lived in B'ham for 5 or 6 years...Eugene has nothing on Bellingham's hippies...except apparently spelling skills...what's a "hyppie"?

That is a pretty good guide, and I have come across that one before. Are you climbing with Alpine Ascents? I am looking for something additional to that one however.

I was wondering if anyone knows of a good (and free) alpine climbing training guide available online. I'm looking for something to distribute to a few people in need of a solid "routine" and if it came from somewhere else (other than me), then they don't curse me when they groan during their thrid lap up the hill with 50lb on their back.

so where is Rocky Butte anyway?

saw one skeeer in my car on the way home...a pleasent change after getting 83 bites on Diamond Peak the weekend before.

For all of us slogging non-skiers... Went up south sister on Thursday...didn't get started until 9:30 from Devils Lake, but nonetheless a gorgeous and successful day. The route was in excellent condition for foot traffic. There was a bit of rime ice and hard crust near the summit as the wind was BLOWING but still did it in leather boots and no crampons. Had no problems and only saw two people heading the other direction down near Moraine Lake...a perfect day! So skip the weekend crowds, cut work on Monday, and go climb it before the trail melts out!

Definitely wasn't me leaving garbage...actually picked up a bit...where did you see that pile of crap? And did you have fun in the trees?

Got up to just below the south summit via the Pioneer Gulch route on saturday. My wife had forgotten the insoles to her boots but, being the trooper she is, wanted to head up anyway. Snow is consistent above 6500 ft on the faces and in the gullies. Ridges are patchy. I carried our two pairs of snowshoes up. Don't. That was dumb. Route finding was a little annoying through the trees, but a 50 degree course from the end of the Pioneer Gulch trail got us up onto the SW ridge just fine....eventually. #1 problem was the mosquitos. I expected a lower snow level...last count was 83 bites...all kinds of itchy fun! All in all though, a great day.

Thank you both! How about I just carry one pair of snowshoes for two people and split the difference between your advice. Seriously though, thank you both...I'm new to this board and so far everyone has been pretty damn helpful. I might go scout the western approach roads to Diamond Peak after work tomorrow...but one of these'll go on Sat., and I'll be sure to report back. ~Evan

Trying to decide between Diamond peak and S. Sister for this weekend...anyone been up the south side recently? Is there a pretty solid boot track yet or do you still need snow shoes or skiis? Thanks!

Sounds great, thank you to both of you for your help!

No place worth shopping a little closer to home?

I'm still relatively new to Eugene and trying to get back in the climbing scene after living in *gasp* NYC for a while (although the boulders in Central Park gave me SOME solace)...but can anyone recommend a good climbing shop in Eugene? Rock and Alpine... Been to REI numerous times, but the climbing section at the store here is little better than a bad joke...I went o buy my wife a pair of glacier glasses and they were out. Not just out of one style, but OUT of glacier glasses completely. Anyway...any recommendation would be appreciated! Thanks! ~Evan

Thank you! I'll check that out on the topo and see how it looks. Much appreciated! ~Evan

Planning on going in on Saturday (allthough now I see the weather might crap out on me) via Oakridge and FS road 21 (I think that's the right #, I'm at work right now and don't have the map in front of me)

Keep hoping to stumble across a book that has route descriptions for Diamond Peak...but alas...being originally from WA I guess I got spoiled by the Becky guides. Does anyone have any route beta for the Westside route? (Pioneer Gulch I think...) I've emanated to piece together a route from descriptions form the Obsidians trip reports on their website, but I'm taking my wife on her first climb, and you know, I'd just like to be sure! Any help would be appreciated! ~Evan