johndavidjr

The fabric on mine is a little stiff with age, but thing will almost certainly outlast me. Perhaps some sort of pack basket would be of interest to original poster? Or Chounard (sp?) brief revival (70s) of the tump line? Carrying a s&%tload of weight.. I've just mostly avoided it. A pack, deluxe or otherwise, simply doesn't make stuff any lighter. On the other hand, cramming a lot of stuff into a very small space creates difficulty that is often pointless.

I love my ultralight cotton golfing jacket, a 1977 Olympia thrift-store purchase, & much like the famous British Anoraks of 1950s, though with a handy steel zipper, which adds versatility. Given its design, it doesn't interfere with my climbing harness and when fully iced-up, is 100% windproof. It goes with my Icelandic balaclava, knitted by certified Viking retards, and my Korean War-era poncho, still going strong until a few years ago & useful for hiding valued trash in back seat of junker car.

For the record, my old Frostfire's listed max capacity is about 6100 ci or 82L, which is as large a pack as I can imagine. Therefore, I do NOT believe that larger packs actually exist, other than as mere theory. Is NOT a good pack, but pack quality is topic of over-rated importance. On the other hand, the few times I've topped 30-pound loads, I've nearly decided to it give up. This generally with frameless packs, possibly of wrong brand. Fact remains that I am a weakling of low moral character and intelligence. The real solution is probably Sherpas, helicopters or livestock or boats.

I have a 1990ish FrostFire Big-Ass pack. It's pretty poor but works okay. A big dufflebag with straps & waistbelt would work pretty good too; especially for strong folks (I am weak). I forgot how big the thing is, but is close to biggest I could find. It was pretty cheap, too. At the time I wanted something to handle a synthetic deep-winter sleeping bag and mattresses, etc. Very light stuff. It was perfect size for overnights. Probably FrostFire stuff got better, but I'd never particularly recommend the brand, if they are even still available. I have a couple of 50L-ish packs that I've used much more often over the years. But you know something? lately I get damned tired of struggling to cram a lot of junk into these tiny packs just to look cool for my increasingly minor hikes (on which I often also end up with stuff for girlfriend and her dogs). Certainly for bushwacking and climbing it makes sense, but taking the giant old dinosaur pack is otherwise damned convenient. Having twice the space you need makes packing a lot less fussy and time-consuming.

A handful of truly advanced & expert back country skiers in NE specialize in descending very steep and narrow hiking trails that are lined by dense and unskiable brush and which are partly covered in water ice and rocks and frequently pass over minor cliffs. Apparently, the relevant technique is, to point ski downhill. It may or may NOT be possible to survive both NE and PNW back country skiing, if appropriate consideration and techniques are applied to whatever project is at hand. However, members of the Appalachian Mountain Club tell me that survival on Mount Washington, New Hampshire, is unlikely without at least a full down suit and Korean-style Boots... and even then, AMC hiker members often risk their lives rescuing many stupid experts. Also, they tell me, is dangerous to listen to Hindu-style music prior to visiting. Avoid this. Probably less of a problem on Mt Hood.

I thought I posted this already. Gene's suggestion is for Boston Basin side of Sahale. This is steep snow and/or ice (moderate adjective being subjective) and is what? 2.000 feet gain? Not a "big" glacier, but with significant number of slots which may or may not be visible. A poor suggestion for average person seeking solo climb and whose experience is limited to getting dragged up easiest route of Baker by guide and large group. "Normal" Sahale Arm route to Sahale is good for somebody who can lead and manage rope on very low 5th class..which can be tad freaky... especially if they have a partner, or at minimum can rig rope. Typically, such a person's experience would not be limited to a single guided climb on Easton Glacier or whatever. This guy needs some good answers and so far some of what is offered here is very dubious.

Shoe repair shop workers on average, are highly skilled and work for reasonably low rates and will give any job their best shot. They (whoever they are) have satisfactorily repaired my OR gaiters at least twice. I would consult with a shoe repair business and then add glue-like material ON TOP of what ever work they perform. Clean surfaces diligently before adding whatever goop you purchase. Duct tape, it seems to me at least, has very limited life-span and is probably best avoided as basis for any long-term repair.

yep.... like the guidebook says... class two....

I brought some rock shoes in which I don't/can't wear socks...weather turned very cool for this.

easy on the pepperoni and such stuff. Slight indigestion can be complicated by fatique.

Consider four thrift-store sweaters of varying thickness (carefully sized), a large cotton (or similar) golfing jacket (for wind), plus (just in case) some sort of non-plastic poncho secured by string or perhaps a belt. You'll probably be fine.

I have an REI Schoeller fabric jacket that is going on ten years old. The wrist-tightening thingies came de-glued almost immediately, the zipper sometimes comes off the rails, and fabric has a couple of burns from cigar ashes. I still like it okay, though am thinking of getting my money back. Otherwise, can't afford to replace it & if I wanted to, would probably look to MEC (and be disappointed). As for the tent you mentioned, my last REI tent was made of cotton (nylon floor). The more moderne Wenzel pup tent is of similar design, but with updated materials and sophistication.

Weird they have a line of "vintage" packs, though includes nothing they were actually known for back in the day. "They" of course having nothing to do with current company I suppose. Was gonna say ALL Kelty branded stuff is no good at all, but I guess they're semi-okay for the mid-priced stuff. Wenzel tents are much better, of course. I've always assumed non-top-loading packs were designed partly for show-room appeal. On the other hand top loaders with zipper access are quite practical, until/unless zipper breaks.

Sez: "If you think that you are not physically prepared for baker, then sahale quien sabe glacier would be a good choice." I imagine he means with a guide; not as a first solo trip following Baker, as is dunno, got some cracks... Am not well-qualified to advise but, you could try Cascadia Couloir on Stuart..That'd be realistic....uhh...There are some remote hiking peaks in Pasayten I've never been near. Mount Stone in SW Olympics is probably realistic....Ellinor in that area probably is same and perhaps shorter....These are relatively close to SEA-Tac airport and quite worthy. There is (was) rather formidable crevasse on the normal route to Silver Star...is modestly steep....You MIGHT make it up to Cache Col and see what's there....Possible a similar crack & similar steepness..? but have never visited.... Interesting potential hike is from basin below Torment to Cascade Pass...cross-country via Boston Basin... No peaks but definitely some adventure....Views stunning. There are a vast number of other suggestions.....St. Helens? I haven't been there since 1978....What's all those "little" peaks next to Rainier????? One or two of those could be very very good..or not.....Never been there (except half-way up somewhere there to sleep in February in 70s) like many places....Like for example, is Mt Maude a possibility??? I've never been to the gunite range.... Whatzit called again? East of Baker? Could a real beginner solo there??? The term isn't necessarily informative.

Is question "last a lifetime?" This question implies an early start and an equally stupid, blowhard digression: A "Primus" brand stove acquired in 1971 in steel box and not dissimilar to the Svea-type models of era, lasted me 12 years. Nozzle threads became stripped, and following its replacement, thing didn't quite work properly. A newer Svea seemed overly fussy with weird self-cleaning crap: a Bluet left me cooking for hours following midnight hike in Alpine autumn; I nearly ruined Whisperlight in Mexico with regular gasoline. An MSR canister stove acquired in Olympia a dozen years ago is my best bet these days (the Widger? the Bugger? the Schnooter?? something). Am sure this will outlast me, but is that lasting "a lifetime?" Is not so long a time. For ten years, I extensively used Trangia mini. Recently with my minimalist (minimal) camping, I've returned to this. Fuel is universally available and cheap & trips to idiot backpacking stores avoided, and due to design, it will never, EVER cease functioning. Archeologists from outer galaxy will discover it in working condition in fossilized junkyard, & make careers trying to figure out what it's for. All that said (so far), is only good for minor & at least slightly sheltered cooking in 20F+ temps.