Alex_Mineev

possibly NSFW link (at least for some peeps) *tsk tsk* see post below if you wondering wether it's safe to clicky clicky...

"8-thousander for Dummies" May be 007 is a columnist under cover making fools out of cc.com crowd?

Hey, if all climb was like the last vertical section it would be WI4-5

I also had one titanium screw and it sucked this time. I had to apply a lot of force while screwing it in. Ice cracked a lot and when I jumped on it the screw poped off with chunks of ice. The best screws in terms of friction were BD, then Omega Pacific, then titanium. On the other hand I used this titanium on NR Baker and it worked fine. Probably this can be explained by the difference between solid water ice and airy glacier ice... Tom brought a couple alluminium(!) army ice screws They of course did not work at all, but looked very cool

It was great climbing with you Tom! For both of us it was first time climbing on water ice Few little corrections The route is called Practice Gully. It had 4 WI2 steps. The one on the pictures is the first one and probably the easiest. The final 5th step was vertical curtain 15-25 feet high (depends on which side you start). Tom leaded the right side and I followed on belay the left side. This last step was the best. The whole climb took from 4 to 5 hours. I hope this was not the last time in the season...

please post snow conditions when you come back! thanks

I'm thinking about Alpental Falls climbs. Has anybody checked them recently? Should I expect crowds there this weekend? Thanks!

http://www.hubair.ch/j-list/video/sprung.mpeg

http://www.mountain.ru/movs/rosov1.avi http://www.mountain.ru/movs/rosov2.avi

Mike, what's the reason behind closing the 'out' gate at 6pm? It is possible to drive thru anyway by getting the combination at the inn... Just additional hassle of getting from the warm car and walking back and forth...?

I have this kind of radio and normally I use a channel that is good for 2 miles and does not require license. I think having 7 miles capability of GMRS is good for emergency situations, but because I do not use it regularly I do not pay for the license.

You wouldn't want to downclimb it because it's long or there is another reason? Just curious

You do not have to summit on Columbia Crest to call the climb complete, any of the three summits would do.

Success Cleaver

I think sky view would be somewhat comparable to the one at Muir hut, may be even better.

Just wanted to use climbing pass one more time before it expires No pictures, next time

Climb: Rainier-attempt on Fuhrer Finger Date of Climb: 12/29/2004 Trip Report: Expecting bad weather not earlier than Wednesday noon Aaron G. and I tried to run up the Fuhrer Finger. Left Paradise at 10.30 yesterday in perfect conditions; we hiked up the Nisqually glacier to 9500ft (4.30pm) where we dug a platform on 35 degree slope protected by a rock outcrop almost below the finger. The plan was to start climbing at 10pm under full moon and meet sunrise on the way down from the summit. Well, it did not work that way. It started snowing at about 8pm, by 9pm we could see cloud deck just a thousand feet above us lighted by the moon. So at 10pm we decided to abandon and started packing out under increasing snowfall and spindrift. Way down was simple - most of the time we followed our tracks. Heard a huge ice avalanche rambling down from Kautz ice cliff. Few notes: Nisqually glacier was in very good shape - we had zero problems navigating it. All the way after descending to the glacier from Glacier Vista point we were postholing, sometimes few inches, sometimes knee deep. Beckey says there is a good bivy site at 9500 near the finger - we did not find it. It's all steep snow slopes, rockfall debris and steep walls, so we had to dig a platform. Anyway, it was a nice day on the mountain

Congratulations!

thanks! here is my b-day shot

http://www.mgear.com/pages/product/produ...Breathable+Tops

Use code 6V-RE9-CSZ6P by December 31, 2004

You will want ice ax and crampons. You will not need rope.

This would be a very long hike. Westside road is closed, so you will start at Longmire or Kautz Creek trail, both making it more than 11k elevation overall and 7-8 miles of approach to 7k elevation. Both trails are snow-covered above 4k. I would expect mix of wind-loaded snow spots and icy pitches along the cleaver (based on conditions of Muir snow field 3 days ago). Very unlikey that you will make it in 2 days this time of year - may be 3-4 days of strenious work given only about 9 hours of day light.

teeth grip is aid

Three days ago I was able to drive up to the Stuart lake TH on a 2wd car with chains. Road is Very icy, as the trail. Not much snow.