Dulton

I was there last week. There is no need for crampons, monitor ridge has melted out so you could stay on the rocks almost the whole way (if you wanted to). Have fun.

hmm, ya, wow... thanks

What size are the G3s?

'nother email sent...

Thats gotta be ... Way to try though. I'm planning on Gib Ledges in a week or two depending on weatehr. Hopefully all that snow will consolidate.

Yo, Alex and Oleg. How did it go this weekend? How was the icefall?

I have been hearing that the rangers will be closing the Chiwawa River road because of the lack salmon that run up the river. I do not think this will be a temporary closure. I have heard that they will close all access to that area. Has anyone else heard this? I have heard this from several very reliable sources in the area. I know this will be taking place probably within the next year or two. I have sent a letter to the Ranger in charge there, I will post the response as soon as I get it. If you have heard anything like this or have anything to add, please do so. To loose access to this wonderful place surely be a very sad thing for climbers and hikers alike, lets get this out in the open.

Did the ID on Friday. The best thing to do is to leave as early as possible, we left at 12:30am and it was beginning to get pretty sloppy on the way down even that early. The route will probably only be in for another week or so. Very direct right now, not too many sketchy crevasse crossings (one RMI ladder to cross @ 12,500ft, not bad tho). Hope that helps, have a great trip and be safe!

Lib Ridge can be anything between a grade III-V... and given the snow conditions this year it will easily be a V... Mike, you got anything to say?

The reason it was closed for so long afterwards is because the mountain was having periodic steam eruptions and dome-building lava flows untill 1986 or so (pretty much the same scenario we have today).... Maybe if St. Helens continues at this rate it will grow as tall as Rainier in a couple years.... or maybe taller

why you post twice? why you post twice?

Camping on the summit is sweet! Sounds like a fun trip man. The only problem in descending the DC is the crowd factor which you wouldn't find on the Success or the Kautz. The crowd factor can also make for a preety hairy descent especially when the RMI crowds go bowling for peeps with rocks on the DC. Edit: This year we had an unusually high amount of high elevation snow pack and unseasonably cold temps and low freezing levels recently would probably keep that snowpack pretty solid. There has been a little bit of new snow up there recently and it will need a couple days of solid weather to consolidate.

The most recent TRs are probably going to be it for your beta. There hasn't really been any weather windows that have allowed anyone to climb, unless you want to climb in conditions that you described. Question: Why are you carrying over to DC?

Buckhorn Warrior (not much of a climb, but could be a sweet ski depending on snow cover)