scrambler

Yeah, baby. Hacktismo Can't wait for the civilian application of these experimental military research projects. Imagine being about to climb immediately after hitting a ledge. Or climbing beyond 5.14d (or 5.15c depending on who you believe).

Trask, I don't have any profound political insights but I recall that Dubya declared a allout war on terrorism, kind of like declaring war on all bacteria. Seems that knowing your enemy goes a long way to eradication, like elimination of smallpox, etc. We're dealing with a fluid enemy, which produces a constant drain on our reserves (troop & money) But it really seems that the unmourned casualty will be the erosion of individual liberties, something the public is all too willing to surrender after the shock of a catastrophic event. Is this the price to pay for admission to the brave new (dystopic) world? Is it, just give me enough diversions or leisurely pursuits and an ample credit line, and I don't give a damn if governments use technology to maintain control? Maybe Minority Report is not so far fetched, considering the unusual programs issued from DARPA (e.g., Hacktismo, Hacktismo I suppose if you grow up in an environment of surveillance (smile you're on camera) then you'll accept it. I remember when growing up someone tried to make me believe that God can see everything. Well, I got news for you, it's not God watching.

Yeah, I read the accident report written up in R&I but I'm still unclear what happened at Vantage. Was the zipper effect a big factor? As for theory, with regard to this example, the fall factor should have been relatively small considering that a great length of rope was played out since he was near the top. A load limiter should absorb some of the force on a piece by blowing its stitches thus reducing the force by several kilonewtons. I also saw an article that mentioned that the late Dan Osman used these when he did some of his climbing rope jumps.

Yeah, it sucks to look down while climbing and see a piece of pro that worked it's way out!

Hmmm...might just be better to back it up with another piece of gear but assuming you couldn't back it up then it seems the pro plus load limiter is better than nothing at all. Just did a search for any threads on the 'dogbone draw effect' but no luck. The typical solution would be to use an alpine sling?

So, I recently bought two Yates Screamers for trad climbing. I've never seen these in action though, in theory, these serve to lessen the impact force on pieces of pro. Bought these to use with small stoppers (BD #4 down to microstopper #3) or questionable gear placements with larger pieces. The smaller pieces of gear are rated at 5 or 6 kN. The stitching on the Screamer blows out at forces greater than 2 kN. Do any of you use load limiters (Yates Screamers, Zippers, Ice Screams, etc)? What's your experience? Do you use these for the first pieces of placement as described by Twight in ice climbing, on belays, or whenever you feel sketched? BTW, I know the cardinal rule is: "Don't fall." I learned that the hard way. That's why I'm posting here, otherwise, I'd be climbing.

"By the power invested in me by the Lord, Jesus Christ, our Savior, I command thee to rise!" Caption: Mountaineering cult practices strange rituals in stony crags surrounding Leavenworth. Seen here, a combination exorcism/healing.

I'd have to agree more with the words of Ken Wilber when he describes the difference between the Left and the Right in his discussion of the human condition. "...when it comes to the cause of human suffering, liberals tend to believe in objective causation, whereas conservatives tend to believe in subjective causation. That is, if an individual is suffering, the typical liberal tends to blame objective social institutions (if you are poor it is because you are oppressed by society), whereas the typical conservative tends to blame subjective factors (if you are poor it is because you are lazy). Thus, the liberal recommends objective social interventions: redistribute the wealth, change social institutions so that they produce fairer outcomes, evenly slice the economic pie, aim for equality among all. The typical conservative recommends that we instill family values, demand that individuals assume more responsibility for themselves, tighten up slack moral standards (often by embracing traditional religious values), encourage a work ethic, reward achievement, and so on." BTW, Wilber's works have been read and studied by thinkers in both parties including those of George W. Bush and Al Gore. Wilber's ideas cut across the ideological divide with the goal of forming an integrative politics. Seemingly an impossible task but not unthinkable.

Dude, I think the comedian, the late Bill Hicks had it right: I'll show you politics in America: "I think the puppet on the right shares my beliefs'" "I think the puppet on the left is more to my liking" "Hey, wait a minute there's one guy holding up both puppets!" "'Shut up!' go back to bed America, your government is in control. Here's Love Connection, watch this and get fat and stupid... by the way, keep drinking beer you fucking morons."

ERD=East Ridge Direct, Forbidden This was the route I was planning to climb with Scot'teryx on the following Sunday before the accident. I'd like to thank everyone who wishes me well and especially the climbers who participated in the 'extraction'. It's all a waiting game now, wondering how my bone will heal, how to get around, and how to pay the bills. I'd have to say I was put off by the initial posting since I tend to be somewhat a private person, thus my lack of postings on this bb. That said, I understand Scott to be the opposite, one who has a strong need for recognition and 'being heard'. Seems he gotten into a few pissing matches on this bb. I'm a believer in fighting your own fights especially since most arguments here seem to be really asinine. Well, I didn't want to bore all of you with this post. I do have one question though, what do you do as the belayer if the guy leading on the sharp end calls down that he wants to come down? Encourage him to climb harder and push him? Or bring him down? Tough call, eh? If he pulls through the difficult section then he'll be better for it, right? Not playing the blame game here as I realise that the call is very subjective. BTW, if I recall correctly, the slope is nearly vertical where I popped. Where I landed it tended to be sloping, so it was similar to hitting a small ledge. John Mefford "Damn, I can't wait until I can climb again!"