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Hargrove1

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    Leavenworth WA

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  1. Good job on getting the trip report Doug done you know i would have not got to it. Thanks Moira for changing plans so Doug and I could go climbing it was a great route.
  2. Yep the hut sucks, bring a tent. A cheaper option you can get a taxi from town to Hidago for I think, I payed 90 pesos. From there it is a 4 or so mile walk on a road. I also stayed at a small hotel in town that was basic but nice. I think it is one block down the main road from the Pemex station on the left (130 pesos. The normal route was in great shape as of the 15th. There was no crevasse danger to speak of. Oh also no ATM in town. Also the food was horrible at the white house where all the gringos are known to eat. Have fun!
  3. did you pass a huge, thin flake at some point, jutting upwards? Don't think so. As Moira said are intentions were to climb a route Briody and I did awhile back and well this one ended up being right of it. We were pretty much right on the edge of the transion between the granite and shale or whatever that stone is. Who knows? FA or not as said above many people have done routes up there. Good times!
  4. Well sure Moira, someone else could have had the FA. But as I told you after talking with some local well shall we say "Sources" the FA is most likely. What the hell though, FA or not it was fun!
  5. There are only a couple trad routes there. A couple Dane Bass put up on ridge lines freaky. Most of them are really long and have only seen maybe a secound acsent. Good luck and yes helmet, 70meter rope would be nice not nessary. I have even brought twins as there are some long raps. Oh stay at Rancho Cerro Gordo great place, Mel the owner a great host. ranchopotrerochico.com
  6. try stonedance.com I will be down there Jan 9th through May 31st climbing Ben
  7. Hey faster try this web site ranchopotrerchico.com. I have been down there twice. I live in Leavenworth for thhe next two weeks and have a pretty resent guide book not the latest from Magic ED. I could give it to you or whatever. PM me if you want to contact me. Ben
  8. Hey I will be down in Chile, Argentina January 9th through May 31st. Mostly Patagonia region Climbing and some trekking. PM me. Ben
  9. So I am going the 7-15th of January. I'm driving and will be based out of Banff. I need a partner! Been there before. Paul
  10. Matt I was there in November. Many new routes put up everyday. I am in Korea at the moment but I do have the newest guide book that was out in Nov. but I know there is a newer one. I will be home in about a week so can send you some beta. The guide book you buy in the US is crap (jeff jackson one). Ben
  11. Hey thanks lots. I really have know idea what I am going to spur of the moment trip but well I will find out. got a week to fnd Beta. What was it like with the english only speakng person I am.
  12. So I just bought a ticket to Seoul today leaving the 26th of this month tell the 19th of next month. What I am wondering is if anyone has climbed there and has any beta? I am looking at the Sorak San area (To-wang-sung icefall) or well any other area in South Korea. Going there to climb will see what happens bu knw i will enjoy whatever will happen. Thank you lots Ben
  13. Hargrove1

    Stuart

    Hey not being in the area at the moment, has anyone been up to stuart in the past week? Whats going on up there in the cascades?
  14. What ice is in? Tell me, tell me.
  15. I am just coming back from Mt Cook. I suggest if you can get a partner to come with you. But if not then you should be ok in Dec. I was there all of november and the first week in Dec and people are starting to come. Dec ember should be ok for conditions and should be able to get up some stuff. If you have any questions just ask that is what I did there learned what to do for next time.
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