Z-Man

No shoe, but we saw the note on the summit of Chianti when we were up there the next day. So I figured these pics might be more meaningful than your average WA pass climbing photos.

Looking for a partner for these days. Was thinking of the NR of Forbidden among many other things.

You were on top of Chianti on Saturday, September 1, with your dog waiting for you at the base of the climb. I snapped these photos of you from Burgundy. Hopefully you or someone you know will see these.

Looking for a partner for some mountain climbing. Was thinking about the NE butt of J-berg among many other things, send me a pm.

Want to get out, have lots of ideas for all kinds of climbs, send me a pm.

My camera didn't walk away on its own. This discourages my faith in humanity.

No takers?

Looking for a partner for a Stuart Range or SR 20 alpine climb this weekend. Lots of other options and ideas in mind too. pm me.

"Without the glaciers, it's not really alpine." - Colin Haley

I'm taken care of and all full-up.

Looking to get out for the day saturday from seattle area, send me a pm.

Alpine, West Ridge of Prusik Bouldering, near Echo lake, Tuolomne area, CA Scenic, Northwest side of Shuksan

I saw this at REI the other day. It appears to operate virtually the same as a BD Guide or a Reverso to belay followers in the auto-locking mode or to belay a leader in the same manner as an ATC. The key difference seems to be that the metal ring which the belayed strands of rope would be clipped to(on the right in the pic) swivels on the other ring, which would be clipped to the anchor in auto-locking mode. Does this allow for easier lowering? I don't see how, or see any other reason why this would be desirable or useful. Simond has a fuzzy diagram in their gear guide, but I can't make it out. Any ideas?

colchuck

I used a method very similar to what Dru suggested on this: There should be a portion of the cornice, regardless of height, that is overhanging little enough to be able to dig almost straight upwards. If there is much room available straight back into the cornice one can also dig small platforms into the snow as you go upwards. I would also highly recommend taking a shovel blade and throwing it onto the shaft of your ice tool to speed things up.

I've slept in this a few times, it's super comfy, especially when you're cragging where there's snow on the ground. I don't think the warmth can be gauranteed without Trogdor to share the bed with though.

First pitch as a whole not too steep, 45-degree snow wallowing at top and bottom. There was a good fifty foot section though that was near vertical with several bumps that pushed it to vertical. Then again maybe I just suck. Or maybe you and I didn't climb the exact same line in the exact same conditions? But if I had to compare it to when I climbed this, which was overhanging or this, which was far from it I think I'd have to stick with my original estimate.

Trip: Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress Date: 1/14/2007 Trip Report: Contemplated my healing ankle on Friday and cancelled the plans for a full weekend of ice climbing. BTW, how'd the trip go JRCO? We were one of three parties on the NEB Sunday, and we all agreed that the route was great fun. Promising start to the day, and it just got better and better. Lots of variations possible all across the East Face and NE Buttress. But if you want any pro for the steep step on this side you're best off aiming for the ice step at 2/3 height on the buttress. We followed the soloist up loose snow, thin ice, rock, and eventually 80-90 degree thunker neve on the first pitch. This may be the most fun pitch I have ever climbed. Topping out first pitch Starting second pitch Simuling up to ice step, the snow here had a thick crust that was easily broken past into loose snow. Not great, but never sketchy. Summit. Turkey sandwich. The Snoqualmie Pass cloud vortex was in full effect on the way down. Rather than screw around with finding good anchors for belays between the trees at the top of the first pitch and the trees at the top of the route, in the conditions we experienced we would have been much better served to just simul-climb the whole stretch. Fun nonetheless. Gear Notes: Rope, tools, screws, pins, crampons, nuts, pickets, slings. All the pro got used about once and only once. Lots of stuff for 3 pitches, but only way to marginally protect it. Approach Notes: South side boot track up valley is packed hard. Ski and slowshoe tracks everywhere above Source Lake, follow the one that goes where you want to go.

I had two windows on my now-defunct van broken and a cell phone stolen at the Anette Lake trailhead up I-90. This was back when there was a sign stating that the area was under video surveillance, too. This was a beater van with no valuables showing, they pulled the cell phone out from under a floor mat, so sometimes even the junkers get targeted. Maybe because they know there won't be an alarm? Seems not much you can do beyond the ordinary precaution.

I badly sprained my left ankle for the third time in 4 years yesterday. Read through this thread, http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=11&Number=368662&Searchpage=3&Main=25858&Words=ankle&topic=0&Search=true#Post368662 , which had good short-term care information, but was wondering about long-term implications and care. This was the same as the two other times this has happened, and I am on crutches and doing the RICE thing, but I'm worried I may be doing irreversible damage at this point. In the referenced thread JosephH recommended strengthening the ankle by doing tightwire walking, any other thoughts about long-term care, strengthening, etc.?

Was on the upper Cool Glacier after approaching from the South in July 2005. Crevasses presented little issue then, although I did go into one up to my hip, so roping up would probably be advisable. Ascending the Chocolate direct would be awesome and has been on my list for a long time, but if you're not there for the vertical stuff just head for either the crater or the Dissapointment peak/summit saddle. The Honeycomb has always looked benign every time I've seen it from a distance, but the valleys east of Glacier looked like classic, jungle-filled holes. Sounds like you know more about the rest of the stuff than most, cool area, enjoy yourself.

overhead danger at Devil's Punchbowl?

pm's.

pm's

Don't post here much, thought I'd introduce myself with trips I've done this year. Orbit, Angel, Condorphamine Addiction, and various other crag climbs in 11worth and Vantage Fernow, Big Snow, Davis, Sahale, Sperry, Overcoat - scrambles Colchuck - Northeast Buttress Couloir Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Adams - Adams Glacier Exfoliation Dome - West Buttress Blueberry Hill Liberty Bell/Concord Tower - NW Face/Tunnel route Stuart - Upper North Ridge Dragontail - Serpentine Arete Shuksan - NW arete SEWS - EBD Lexington - EF Dragontail - Backbone Ridge Prusik Peak - West Ridge, Burgner-Stanley plus 3 failed attempts on Rainier, and 1 each on Baker, Chimney Rock, Stuart, Colchuck, Triumph, and Liberty Mountain.