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Everything posted by AlpinistAndrew

  1. POLL: What is everybody doing this weekend?

    None. Just MOFA (Mountaineering Oriented First Aid), from 8am-6pm, Sat. and Sun. (a very boring class), though important for the backcountry. I wish I were going climbing though
  2. The Climbing Mags Today - A review

    I definitly agree with everyone that most climbing/outdoor magazines really suck these days. I did like Alpinist, for the pictures, and a few of the articles. I also sort of like High Mountain Sports. Like everyone is saying they all have too many advertisemenst, especially that damn North Face Chevy Avalanche, it seems like tha ad is in every mag a couple times. And Outside really blows, the latest issues examplifies this.
  3. Discussing climbing with non-climbers

    Whenever I tell someone that I climb, they give the usual response as you guys mentioned. "Have you read Into Thin Air" or "Have you seen Vertical Limit", my favorite for people in Washington State is, "Have you climbed Mt. Rainier", cause apparently thats the only mountain they know in the state. You ask them about Baker or Adams or something, and they have no idea what your talking about. Plus everyone I talk to assumes that I rock climb (which I do, though mostly alpine), but apparently they don't know any better. My parents are very protective of my climbing. My mom doesn't understand at all, no matter how I put it, she doesn't get it. I have explained why I climb and the basics of climbing to him, so he feels safer about me doing it. I have a lot of non climbing friends, and they don't know what the hell I'm talking about when I say "I went climbing this weekend", it is a bit frustrating. Explaining is the best method I've found.
  4. Ice tools??

    check out www.sierratradingpost.com, right now they have a lot of ice tools. they have the black diamond black prophets for $140 and a whole bunch of grivel tools, both the rambos and geronimos, the geronimos are $140 as well. check it out, good deals.
  5. Governor's Ridge/Cowlitz Chimneys

    Yeah, last summer I lived at Sunrise, so I looked at those peaks everyday. To do the chimneys you can either go to Summerland or go to Owyhigh Lakes. Summerland approach is best for the middle and south chimney. Owyhigh lakes is better for the north chimney. North chim. has fifth class routes, the south chimney is class 2 and the middle is class 3+. It is a bit of a hike to get there from summerland. Sadly I never climbed the chimneys because i had too many other outdoor activities going on. I did do Barrier Peak by governerors ridge. To do governors peak, you can either approach from an obvious gully from Owyhigh lakes or go behind barrier peak and traverse around. In early season, with lots of snow, the gully is the better bet, but once the snow melts, the route to the saddle is basically really, really steep talus and scree, very loose. governors is like class 3.
  6. Tieton Climbing Access

    I started trad lead climbing this summer when I was living at Sunrise in MRNP, so I went to Tieton, using Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol. II. My partner and I went to Royal Columns, but there was no bridge going over the river like it said in the book and we didn't see any signs saying the place was closed for eagle nesting. (So we forded the river and climbed, interestingly enough we came upon an emu-a large australian bird-). I was wondering if anyone knew what was up with the bridge being gone and what the situation is with climbing at Royal Columns (were we not supposed to be there).
  7. Attention Bellingham Climbers

    This is my second year living in Bellingham, I am a Student at WWU. I love it hear, it is absolutely awesome. Its away from the horrid crowds of Seattle, but close enough to drive there if you must. Its a nice little town. Close to great skiing (Mt. Baker and Whistler), there is a bit of rock climbing in town, for the summer, and Squamish isn't too far off. Lots of alpine climbing, its close to a lot of stuff. Really, like people have mentioned, finding a job is the problem. As a student, the only job I was able to get was at the WWU dining services, (it sucks), Haggen also hires alot, but only offered me weekends(cuts into my climbin time). Overall, Bellingham is great, I would move here when I get older, but like i said, NO JOBS.
  8. Current Conditions - Tatoosh Range

    I was up at MRNP on Wednesday, because I was going to camp at Reflection Lakes and hike up to Pinnacle. However, winter camping is not yet allowed in MRNP, due to the lack of snowfall, you have to camp at designated backcountry camps. Although there's enough snow to not have the stevens canyon road to be open. There was about 2" of snow at longmire and 54" at Paradise. Ranger said it would be a little while longer until they allow winter camping.
  9. Winter Skiing in MRNP

    I am interested in doing some ski tours in MRNP this winter (that is if we get some snowfall). One place in particular that I wanted to explore is the Sunrise area. Has anyone ever skiied (or snowshoed for that matter) up to Sunrise from where they close off Highway 410. I was wondering if anyone did how long it took and any good descents/tours in that area of winter solitude.
  10. It really did fall down

    No MtnrMichael, its at the Sunshine Wall, in the Twin Cracks Area; near ridem'cowboy and party in your pants, that area.
  11. Projects for 2003

    Projects for 2003: Accomplish 1, maybe two winter alpine routes.(including Mt. Hood) Ice climb During the summer-do liberty ridge on Rainier, Baker, and Glacier Peak. One route in the pickets And we'll see what else comes my way
  12. Winter Routes on Mt. Sefrit

    So first off, has anyone ever heard of Mt. Sefrit. Its near Mt. Baker on the Noocksack Ridge, has anyone ever done any winter routes on it, I heard there was supposed to be a route or two worth doing.
  13. Winter Skiing in MRNP

    Yes, I knew snowmobiles were allowed to go up to White river campground, but they cant up the sunrise road. I don't think parking should be an issue, because they have a plowed area right after the Crystal Mtn. Blvd turnoff, you need a snopark permit to park at the pullout thing though at the park gates.
  14. Solo Ice Climbing on Mt. Baker

    I went up to the Coleman Glacier today (Sunday) to check it out. There were actually quite a few cars at the trailhead and I ran into several hikers, not to mention a pair of snowboarders. There was also a group of climbers down on the glacier, presumably going to ice climb, I couldn't tell what they were doing from my vantage point. I paralleled the glacier until I could go no further. I didn't do any ice climbing since I was alone and am not that experienced. But a nice area, definitly will go back. Snow was rock hard and there was a fair amount of ice forming on the waterfalls and such, but still running with water. Colfax and Lincoln had a lot of snow and ice on them.
  15. SVC mountaineering course ?

    Also you can check out the Mountaineers, they have branches in Everett, B'ham, Seattle (there are the other branches, but not close to Skagit Valley). I have taken some courses with the Mountaineers and I like it a lot. One of the classes they offer is the Basic Climbing Class (teaches you basic rock and glacier/snow climbing skills).
  16. 5 Best Highlights of the Past Year

    I am beggining climber, so my accomplishments aren't spectacular or anything. Summer 2002 1)Mt. Rainier (DC)-First Glacier travel lead 2)Sloan Peak (Corkscrew Route) 3)1st Trad Lead (5.4) 4)South Early Winters Spire (South Arete) 5)Sahale (Sahale Glacier) Solo My worst failure or at least the most "traumatic" was when I attempted to climb Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route in August (my first time attempting Rainier). I was with three other friends, I was leading the group. We were just past the bergshrund, very near the top. When one of my teammates just couldn't go on anymore. He had AMS and his feet hurt from the plastic boots. We made plans for about 5 minutes then headed down. Living in the shadow of Rainier, I have always wanted to climb it, it was my life dream. I was very pissed off for the next week, and that day still haunts me a little bit, even though we had to go down and it was the right thing to do. Though two weeks later we climbed the DC, so it all worked out I guess.

    This past summer a friend and I went to the top of 3rd Burroughs Mtn., in MRNP, before the road to Sunrise opened (since we worked there). My friend and I tossed a couple rocks off the side of the peak down a rocky, boulder strewn talus field, it was very steep. It was fun to watche the medium to small rocks skip and fly off the larger rocks and fall down to who knows what in the clouds. Then, as we were leaving, my friend throws one more rock, rather small, it ricochets off one of the rocks on the hillside, and sets the whole thing loose. The whole thing starts rumbling, it feels like an earthquake. Dust is all over the place and bits of rock fragments get in our eyes. An avalanche of boulders and rocks just slides down, it was pretty impressive, didn't take out any trees however, just the whole side of this mountain. We proceeded to run away a bit, considering we were standing at the lip of the steep hillside, fearing it might go as well. All and all, it was the most impressive rock slide i've ever seen.
  18. Hood In Winter

    Has anybody done the Leuthold Couloir route before? Any other good winter routes on hood that would be doable in December, due to our low snowfall accum. so far? [ 11-15-2002, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: AlpinistAndrew ]
  19. Panorama Dome

    I am interested in doing some ice climbing up at Pan Dome, when the ice flows are formed and in condition. I was up at Baker today to check out the area and see where the Pan Dome water fall ice climbing was, but I couldn't figure out where its at, from the description I got from somewhere else it said to follow the Austin Pass road until able to cut across to the climb. But I wasn't sure how far and where on Pan Dome. Can someone help me out here, thanks.
  20. Tieton Climbing Access

    Oh okay, thanks. Yeah, my friend and I just waded the river a little downstream from where the bridge was out, we went there several times during the summer, though I didnt know about the bridge upstream. We were there in August.