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Hey glassgokiss, does the strain get climbed very often in the late winter or spring. I had always thought of it as a fall route. After seeing the condition the lower couloir was in last fall after a hot and dry summer I was thinking to myself that maybe spring might make better. What do you think?

what are you talking about? The cool routes in Rocky Mountain National Park form up at the end of September, Smear of Fear, Feilds Chimney, Alexanders. A friend of mine climbed the Smear in September last fall.

The ice is generally still very good most places in the San Juans. The very cold temps of last week, -10 to -20 at night, have given way to pretty mild weather the last few days. The ice park is still very good, but the cold weather of the last couple of weeks have made the ice pretty spooky for leading. I saw two pretty big leader falls in the lead only area of the park, while I was in the bottom of the gorge getting ready to lead out, last Saturday. They happened within about fifteen minutes of each other. The ice in the park generally has quite a bit of air in it, so watch your pro and use long screws when you can. The backcountry ice is about as good as it's going to get this winter. Ouray Camp Bird Road -Most of the climbs at the skylight area are in, but thinner than usual, like the Skylihgt route. -The Ribbon-In, but you have to be pretty certain about snow conditions -Birdbrain Boulevard-pretty much just a rock climb this year, no ice -Talisman-has seen some ascents, but the climbing is full on, first pitch may have sublimated away after very cold weather Hwy 550 -Horsetail Falls-In pretty fat, probably a 3+ at the moment -Gravity's Rainbow, Abraxus, Kennedy's Gully-They were all in and climbed the 11th,12th,13th by several parties and then melted out this past weekend. Hwy550 North of town Dexter Slabs-In, this is a good moderate climb with now real avy danger Silverton- All the popular routes are in and being climbed quite a bit. Snow conditions have been good but will probably change with next weather system moving through tonight. Telluride- Ames Ice Hose-Contrary to popular belief this route is still in and going strong, I climbed it Sunday and it was outstanding. We took the mixed rock start on the first picth, which offers awsome pick torques, dry tool edges and hand jams. The direct start could probably go but it would be of the x-rated variety. I climbed the direct start in December and it was thin and 5+/6 then and has much less ice now.The second pitch is the money, good steep ice pulling chockstones with stemming onto rock for feet in places, protected with small cams screws, and two fixed pins. The last pitch is 60 meters of steep brittle ice with no real rests. Best ice/mixed route I've done in the area this year. If your in the area this one should be on the top of your list. -Howards Fork-Vince Anderson is putting up some new bolted mixed routes in this small area. The ice is steep and pretty hooked out in places but the routes that are there are pretty good. -Bridalviel Falls-Seeing a lot more action as the winter has gone on. First two pitches are steep and in the 5+/6 range. Get an early start on both bridal viel and the ice hose so you don't get scooped. I hope this info is useful for people.

I know there is a good number of people from the northwest who head to the San Jauns to climb during the holidays so I thought I would give some info on current conditions in our neck of the woods. Ice Park- Opened Dec. 13 Camp Bird/Skylight Area -Skylight Climbs are mostly in but thinner than last year -Ribbon-has been climbed but first pitch is scary thin -Birdbrain-no ice yet, probably not going to happen this year Horsetail Falls-In Silverton/Eureka-All of the major climbs are in and fat, I climbed there I climbed there two days ago and it was very good. Telluride- Ames Ice Hose-In. I climbed it about 10 days ago and it is mixed on the first two pitches. The thin section on the first pitch can be bipassed by rockclimbing on the right at 5.8 on bad rock in crampons. The second pitch is mostly steep ice with some stemming onto rock Bridalveil Falls-Looks good from the road it is probably climbable right now with a bunch of the usual overhanging mushrooms on the second pitch. The season looks like it is finally kicking into high gear. Anyone planning a trip here this winter should also think about bringing their backcountry boards because the skiing has been great so far.