North_by_Northwest

Charlie's too petrified of that big Samoan to respond.

They had a shitload of gear going in all directions and I didn't take the time to figure it all out. From what I saw they were testing one piece at a time on a rope that was fixed at the base of the climb. The test bag was hauled up until it was X distance above the piece, then cut loose. The guys who were involved are probably holding back until they come out with a result, so our speculations are pretty meaningless at this time.

Afraid?He's going to eat those children!

I was the one who saw the testing at Vantage. The bag was 220# according to the testers. (Charlie you know you weigh more than that.) The gear was placed as close to Kropp's placements as they could figure, so that may figure into why things broke. The testers showed me a three and a two Camalot (old style) they had tested. One ripped, the other held but was broken (it looked like a smashed cuckoo clock). One of the pieces was actually Kropps and had been in the accident, I don't remember which. The funny thing is that they also tested a wiregate like the ones Kropp had and it didn't break. The gate was taped completely open and it held. I'm not going to jump to conclusions about what the results mean, the guys in the study obviously have a lot to consider before the info is fit for our consumption. Being 190# myself I place more gear now than I did before I saw that fatty bag of rocks smashing into the talus. I'm not going to let it mess with my head though, a short fall on solid gear is still not so scary. Good Gracious, Ass Bodacious!

Another advantage to Forrest's approach is that you won't want to aid on rock you can free. You'll free more and move faster, even if you do lose your toenails. Better climbing through increased discomfort.

Wrap your arms and legs around the rope, then slide. Your dead partners body will cushion your landing when you reach the bottom. (Preferably your partner will not be wearing a helmet in this scenario.) Seriously though, if you led up and placed a decent amount of gear, couldn't you clip your one biner through the rope and your belay loop and lower as best you could until you hit the next piece of gear? Pulling on the weighted rope and using the pressure to paste your feet to the rock would help minimize falling between peices. It would be like taking repeated whips on a climb: it would suck but you probly wouldn't die.

What's the connection between LOTR and "Meet the Feebles"? I haven't seen Feebles yet but they sound awful sick. How about the movie "Bad Taste", anyone seen that? It's from NZ.

by sandman Monster trucks are my life, monster trucks bring me heartache and strife, and I got a young sweetheart who wants to be my wife: Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Is it any wonder that my head is in a whirlwind? And I don't give a rat's ass when will the goddamn world end, I got twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Well the preacher man on Sunday likes to speak of ARMAGEDDON ! According to his sermon that's where this country's headin. But when that nuclear fall out falls out I'll be out there sleddin, with my twelve foot high tires and my twelve year-old girlfriend. Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Is it any wonder that my head is in a whirlwind? And I don't give a rat's ass when will the goddamn world end, I got twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. (mouth harp solo) Well the preacher man says that I must lead a SINFUL sex life ! But I don't pay him no mind: he just divorced his seventh ex-wife. And I'd rather have fun this life than worry about my next life, Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Is it any wonder that my tail is in a tailspin? And I don't care when will the goddamn world end, Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Now that's a pop song honky!

Wynoochee River Manastash Ridge (Man a stash! -name started hemp co.) Blue Balls Falls (great ice in winter) Cle Elum (confusing to pronounce for outsiders)

I don't know about a bandwagon, I don't even know anyone else who likes Manson's music. All of my friends who have heard it like it though. I agree, he's a heinious asshole and definitely deserves what he's got, but that's true of many rock stars. Take a listen to "sick city" and "look at your game girl", then decide if he has nothing to contribute.

Actually I have it right according to the movie. I assume the biting head quote is from the book...

I don't really know, but he can't spend it in prison. From what I've heard of his stuff he doesn't talk about his criminal past or any of the victims, which makes me more sympathetic to allowing him to produce art from prison. If it were about the victims, the crimes, or inciting other psychos, I'd be all for banning it.

Manson has some really great stuff, and it's not all psycho stuff either. GNR covered one of his songs: "look at your game girl" and it rocks. He was very talented and on his way to the top before he went nuts. I see no reason why we shouldn't enjoy the art of a lunatic, as long as he doesn't get to enjoy the profits (and he'll never get out so that's not a problem).

I'm headed for RR on the 27th, then to Josh on the 31st. I'll be staying there until the 5th I think. That kinda breaks up my ROAD TRIP but it will be worth it to do some of the longer climbs I missed in Vegas.

Or Bweenas handcwack. Yup, I'll bet he's tipping back a few Coors Lights with his buddies in Creekside, about to set some furniture on fire or throw snowballs at the cops. Fucking white hat and puka shell necklace wearing, Acura driving, never truly climbing, sophmores.

"Chawlwie! Whats wong wiff the outdowr advenwure cwub? Pwoffessor Pewkins was vewy nice to me." Micahel probably hasn't sent the slabs and overhangs of the wind sculpture yet either.

Und talk in a sehr nonchalante accent about plans on sie Eiger in Schpring, or some other nonsense.

Nah, trundling wouldn't have even put a dent in the helmet that guy had on. We just climbed and rappelled our route (Beckey rte on Liberty Bell) twice before they could get up Concord once.

Exactly what I was trying to say to Micahel here.

Ralph, A Mountie made a smartass remark to my cimbing partner once about how the route he was on was rated 5.6+, while ours was only 5.6. That really opened my eyes to the possible uses of the plus/minus rating. I won't forget that lesson soon.

Micahel, That's been done in the past. But what's the fucking point this time? I think deadguy/bandgeek has brought needed debate to the board. His original posts weren't all that tasteless anyway.

Probly right. Hey how's the climbing weather in Vegas right now? Windy? Or are you in Seattle? I'm heading down there soon.

You want me to throw it into the tub when White Rabbit peaks?

I have a friend who got serious rope burn. His belayer dropped him from the top of a climb. He grabbed the side of the rope going up in an attempt to stop himself (unsuccessful of course). The result: a nice 11mm peep hole when he made a fist. Took a while for him to heal, even longer before he let his girlfriend belay him again.

Matt and Scott, thanks for the info. I've been thinking about doing the Tooth this way just because it would be a novelty, like riding a gondola for approaches in Europe. Of course I'd take brandy, nutella, brotchen and all the other essentials to make it a true Euro experience. Will post TR when complete.