North_by_Northwest

I just got the axe too, right after New Years. They must think its easier on us if they wait until after the holidays, less chance of an "incident". It wasn't necessary: the nice weather at Index today made me forget about revenge altogether. I'm also open for weekday activities now.

I'll start a new spray thread about bolt chopping. Everyone here just play along like it's true OK? We'll have a real argument soon.

It was you Dwayner. On Outer Space a couple years ago. Charlie and I carried your helmet and harness out, then saw you at Gustav's and gave it back.

Humorous D-Wayne. I remember a climber I met in Leavingworth once. He was an odd fellow: he pretended to be giving commands to his partner in German. He also had a tendency to leave his gear at the base of climbs in the hope that others would carry it out for him. I don't have a picture of him, but you might find one for me eh?

It was kinda cold and windy before New Years (what a drag with all the cops and shit!), but after it got warm. I think it was as hot as 65 or 70, with no wind. We were on Toe Jam, Overhang Bypass, Geronimo (night adventure) Touch and Go, Pope's Crack, Walk on the Wildside, Contiuum, Invisibility Lessons, and some others. Did you send Gunsmoke? I got on the Choob (Tube in some books) at the end of the trip but still couldn't stick the exit.

I was there a couple days ago and it was t-shirts and shorts all day. Some girls were even climbing in their little spaghetti strap prana tops. Vegas was a little cold though. What'd ya climb down there COL?

I don't know, what's going on in Texas?

I like that you abbreviated Squamish to "squish" to go with split beaver. Onamonapeia. I don't think DFA is a first timer, he's just hearing the calling for the first time.

I doubt you'll make it to Ingall's, or even to within walking distance of the trailhead. The Teanaway is serious sledneck territory this time of year. They usually shut off the road where the pavement ends to make it a sled trail. But yeah, you might want to call anyway. What did you have in mind to do up there?

So now that you're a trad climber what's your proj' DFA? Gonna leave Smith? Maybe some alpine? I suggest you create a 12a alpine clipup.

I can't say whether it was static or not, I didn't check out what they had going close enough. Either way, I don't think we're in any position to say whether their test was meaningful or not, there's too much we don't know.

Charlie's too petrified of that big Samoan to respond.

They had a shitload of gear going in all directions and I didn't take the time to figure it all out. From what I saw they were testing one piece at a time on a rope that was fixed at the base of the climb. The test bag was hauled up until it was X distance above the piece, then cut loose. The guys who were involved are probably holding back until they come out with a result, so our speculations are pretty meaningless at this time.

Afraid?He's going to eat those children!

I was the one who saw the testing at Vantage. The bag was 220# according to the testers. (Charlie you know you weigh more than that.) The gear was placed as close to Kropp's placements as they could figure, so that may figure into why things broke. The testers showed me a three and a two Camalot (old style) they had tested. One ripped, the other held but was broken (it looked like a smashed cuckoo clock). One of the pieces was actually Kropps and had been in the accident, I don't remember which. The funny thing is that they also tested a wiregate like the ones Kropp had and it didn't break. The gate was taped completely open and it held. I'm not going to jump to conclusions about what the results mean, the guys in the study obviously have a lot to consider before the info is fit for our consumption. Being 190# myself I place more gear now than I did before I saw that fatty bag of rocks smashing into the talus. I'm not going to let it mess with my head though, a short fall on solid gear is still not so scary. Good Gracious, Ass Bodacious!

If it's serious and it's in the cylinders the oil should appear bubbly and soapy from the anti-freeze and it should be overly full all the time. If the oil isn't like that and the radiator's empty I'd say it's probly going somewhere else; a radiator full is a lot to burn. I'm not a mechanic though, I don't know all the possibilities. The last used car I bought had a big comb under the seat. The previous owner (and only driver) had been bald for years before he even bought the car. Go figure.

If the radiator is always empty but the oil isn't over-flowing where is it going? On the street? Sounds like other problems too. On a more serious note: you don't have a whole lot of silly climbing and political bumper stickers on it do you? I don't think I could drive a truck like that.

Another advantage to Forrest's approach is that you won't want to aid on rock you can free. You'll free more and move faster, even if you do lose your toenails. Better climbing through increased discomfort.

Is it the 22R motor? How bad is the head gasket? Is there a lot of anti-freeze in the oil? Does it run or is it totally incapacitated right now? How are the hubs/transfer case/tranny/brakes? Details make a difference man!

Wrap your arms and legs around the rope, then slide. Your dead partners body will cushion your landing when you reach the bottom. (Preferably your partner will not be wearing a helmet in this scenario.) Seriously though, if you led up and placed a decent amount of gear, couldn't you clip your one biner through the rope and your belay loop and lower as best you could until you hit the next piece of gear? Pulling on the weighted rope and using the pressure to paste your feet to the rock would help minimize falling between peices. It would be like taking repeated whips on a climb: it would suck but you probly wouldn't die.

What's the connection between LOTR and "Meet the Feebles"? I haven't seen Feebles yet but they sound awful sick. How about the movie "Bad Taste", anyone seen that? It's from NZ.

by sandman Monster trucks are my life, monster trucks bring me heartache and strife, and I got a young sweetheart who wants to be my wife: Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Is it any wonder that my head is in a whirlwind? And I don't give a rat's ass when will the goddamn world end, I got twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Well the preacher man on Sunday likes to speak of ARMAGEDDON ! According to his sermon that's where this country's headin. But when that nuclear fall out falls out I'll be out there sleddin, with my twelve foot high tires and my twelve year-old girlfriend. Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Is it any wonder that my head is in a whirlwind? And I don't give a rat's ass when will the goddamn world end, I got twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. (mouth harp solo) Well the preacher man says that I must lead a SINFUL sex life ! But I don't pay him no mind: he just divorced his seventh ex-wife. And I'd rather have fun this life than worry about my next life, Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Is it any wonder that my tail is in a tailspin? And I don't care when will the goddamn world end, Twelve foot high tires and a twelve year-old girlfriend. Now that's a pop song honky!

Wynoochee River Manastash Ridge (Man a stash! -name started hemp co.) Blue Balls Falls (great ice in winter) Cle Elum (confusing to pronounce for outsiders)

I don't know about a bandwagon, I don't even know anyone else who likes Manson's music. All of my friends who have heard it like it though. I agree, he's a heinious asshole and definitely deserves what he's got, but that's true of many rock stars. Take a listen to "sick city" and "look at your game girl", then decide if he has nothing to contribute.

Actually I have it right according to the movie. I assume the biting head quote is from the book...