billcoe
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Posts posted by billcoe
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hhhhhm, can't delete the post.
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Best of all, since it's digital, it's not too late to make up your own new, 3rd name, for Farside/Dropzone.
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Crikyeys, the Winds? You're going to be in excellent shape. Crap. I'm still down, lets get it done. The job awaits....
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You got something to say to Joe for something he said or did, have at it Dennis, but keep his wife and kids of of it. Please delete your post and apologize. It's just wrong. Way way wrong.
This thread looks to be just another example of Seasonal Beacon Disorder....
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Bronco: It's a Beal Top Gun II 10.5 mm rope with some weatherproofing treatment ("Dry Cover"). Bought it in 2014, used it for a couple days of sport climbing and maybe ten days of mountaineering. Never taken a lead fall on it. So, relatively fresh before this exposure.
You have years left on it. 2 weeks is nothing and especially as it's a larger diameter rope. Not sure the spot you left it but one thing you want to be sure of is that it didn't take any hits from rocks. People use to routinely check rope condition in the old days especially looking for "soft spots" by moving the rope through their fingers and feeling every inch of it (that's not a lengthy process although it sounds like it). It's always possible that a rock may have slammed it down into the snow and caused some damage that's not readily visibly apparent. 99.3% it's probably good to go though, just check it and use it would be what I'd do.
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Good stuff. (not the accident part although it's interesting) Local boy makes a Jeff Vargen podcast (Jeff just wrapped up the Assault on El Cap film in case the name seems familiar). This is called Rants, Raves & Topher Dabrowski".
Says:
"Jeff and Dave talk with Topher about big falls, broken ankles and Rattlesnakes and his recent climbing accident while climbing El Capitan with Jeff. Film terms of the day is Overcrank and Undercrank. On this episode's Brush with Fame Dave meets Jay Leno and Jeff and Dave share a hot tub with Mo Green (Alex Rocco) from Godfather 1." http://www.accidentalproductions.net/rants-raves-topher-dabrowski/
Heal up man!
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I did a little bit of work out there on both sides. Got some rocks out of the way and did some digging under Sweet Fucker and The Head Wall as per video. There's a nice flat bit of trail here now so folks can quit sliding halfway down the hill and screwing up the plants.
[video:youtube]
My old buddy Keith made me this Pry Bar 38 years back when he was a Millwright at the feed mill. I use to use near daily it in construction but as I'm an office person now, I like refreshing the memory of youth and getting it out and using it when I can. I've been trying to rehab my shoulders...none too successfully but they are better. Somewhat.
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I haven't seen Kelton for a while, but a quick call to Jim O would probably get current info. Do you need Jims number?
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Excellent idea! Any good sources for 55 gallon batches of the hot glue Rad? We will need @ 30 - 40 of the 55 gallon drums:-)
Jim Neiland...bad ass FA of the only route on the tower (excluding the 600' pending pissant version we are trying to get going of course), has been in touch. Says
"It was just a lot of loose rock that you had to dig through before you found usable holds. The diagonal ramp area high on the face had a lot of loose blocks laying about but was easy climbing and quickly passed. I think with some serious cleaning a number of good routes are possible."Agree with that last part. Anyway, the pup and I went up to look see last Monday. He was concerned that we might have to race folks to the base so as to not get sniped off the route....HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. GOOD LORD.
We'd had that very thing happen at Smith hiking Misery Ridge to Monkey Face once. We actually sprinted up and over in a race. After I'd grabbed the lagging pups backpack of course and tossed it on top of mine. Now he's in better shape and carrying the bigger pack. Cha cha cha changes, Bowie sang. Indeed.
I'd tried to explain that we may be the 5th party up there...like, ever. But the term, 5th ever, seemed inconceivable to the pup. Natch, we were all alone save a couple of buzzards who may have been thinking that we were to be jugging the fixed ropes left up all winter. Nope. None would be so dumb....cough. Soon we were at the base having discourse and combat with the resident deer flies and I gave the pup the first pitch. He gets it done in an hour, pausing mid pitch a long time in disbelief that any shit head would leave his aiders and free off into the wild hummocks with no pro in sight. I tried to explain that had been the part of the 1st pitch I'd led, carrying a drill and a bunch of other crap he didn't have, but he was having none of that bullshit. After the usual parental browbeatdown the lad finally steps off and gets no more than 10 feet out of the bolt (as it looked from below e-with the usual foreshortening) and states yelling back, "ARE YOU FUCKING KIDDING ME, THIS HUMMOCK IS STARTING TO SLIDE" No amount of "I already kicked off the real loose shit, just go for it there must be a bolt up there someplace within 20 more feet" seemed to assuage his fears. Finally he sacked up and sent. The mumbled exclamation "Ok, that wasn't so bad" was followed with the "ROPE FIXED" comment I was waiting for.
It took me a miserable 1:05 and significant cackling from the belayer to get me up the second pitch. I don't give a rip who laughs at me or calls me names next go round, next trip up I'm taking a stick clip and passing those hook moves. At several points I'm staring...staring...staring...looking for a hidden hook move...or hole. Nope. Not there. Not there. More staring...staring...staring feeling blindly around with my fingers, feeling feeling...repeat, then do some more. nope. Nope. NOPE! Grr##DCCSX! nope. Nope. NOPE! nope. Nope. NOPE THERE ARE NO HOLES OR HOOK MOVES HERE AT ALL! Did that a couple times and was all but stuck. Like 5 min stuck. But having fun too! I mean, this is real good shit. Real good. Great climbing, scary but safe still challenging and fun. I can see the bolt up 8 feet, but no way to get there. Pissing me off. Once I dug a hummock out and got a great hook placement on a rock. The entire block peeled off on the bounce test. Fer christs sake, that's my only son right below me 80 feet. F%%%^^&&K. And this pitch has been done at least several times before if not more, Ivan lead it FA and made giant spaces, and he let me lead it earlier this year when I was out with him.
If this keeps up it might be cleaned off some day. It's looking a lot better down low as the rap line hits the route, up high, not so much yet. This is P2.
Anyway, trying to get in shape again and got a small chunk back. I knew that because although I was burnt out and tired, I didn't have much shoulder pain. (!!!!!!!!) The hike out we met Bob and Kylie, the locals motorcycling on the FS road. Chainsawing the road a tad. Our offer to help (3 times) refused. Great folks.
Time to get back to putting up more route now as soon as the big guy is ready. The drill is charged...
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It just had a dusting of snow up there 3 days back! So like, now! They are saying that the snow will be melting faster than normal this year as it will be a warm year. So ...NOW. Next month (July) it's gonna be badly sun cupped and beat to crap is my guess, a month earlier than normal.
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Can you advise what you are going to do with it and what your needs are? For example, I have @ 14 or more harnesses. Some barely make it around my wide ass any more. If you were doing something super cool, like taking a 78 year old woman up her first mountain climb (snow), I'd be temped to just give you an old POS that would work great for glacier travel at a time when a crevasse fall could only occur intentionally as they are so open and visible, but that might give the Todd Skinner effect if you jumped off the Leaning Tower.
Portland State rentals: https://www.pdx.edu/recreation/sites/www.pdx.edu.recreation/files/EQC%20large_0_0.pdf
NO
REI, they use too rent such things: https://www.rei.com/stores/rentals.html#oregon
Perhaps? "Mountaineering Gear" should include Ice axes, crampons...harness's? hmmm Call them.
Oregon Mt Community, they use to be the go - to guys for this very thing. http://www.omcgear.com/rentals
Looks like you need to call them. Good folks, but I won't speak for my knowledge of 40 years back. You need to call. Phone: 1-800-538-3604
If any of that trash don't work, speak up and we can help you sort it out. Or die trying:-)
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Probably not a bad idea to wear your helmet when traveling across boulder fields off trail...
I don't wear a helmet hiking. Still trying to get it on my noggin while climbing:-) But here's another suggestion that I pitched to my kid just last weekend hiking steep uphill/downhill cross country to the base of our climb -no trail. We tend to double tie knots in our shoelaces so that they do not become untied and become an inconvenience to re-tie.
The double knot is a regular shoe tie, then you take the floppy ears and tie another knot. They will not easily become untied. Loos something like only more streamlined:
If you do the double knot and happen to snag a stick walking down hill, it's easy to trip. I told the pup that while walking downhill do not ever do the double knot. If you snag a stick (which is very common) your shoelace will pull through and become untied while you maintain your balance: an inconvenience sure - as you now need to re-tie the shoe, but not a major health issue a full on trip/roll down the hill it could be if your shoelace didn't untie.
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I can relate to that over 60 thing. You get more tired at days end, and it's easier to pitch on the downwards hike out if that's really what it was in this case (the media rarely gets these stories right). I've taken to using a ski pole or 2 after Ivan and Ben turned me on to their benefits. I wouldn't have ripped out about 8 (but who counts LOL) of my shoulder tendons if I'd had one. Wishing a full recovery on whomever it was that tumbled.
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When is that email coming through? Been a year. LOL.
Great thread. It appears I both climbed better and wrote better 10 years back. Beacon opening soon stoke!!! Crazy but this thread got moved from "Rockclimbing" to "Climbing partners" and shortly after that just died. Currently 1885 posts and 3,631,388 page views. 3,631,388! John just wanted a belay to go dry tooling and look what happened.
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I headed out today, all loaded for Bear and packing way too much stuff. Figured I'd do a public service and clean and lap Tribal Therapy, Yahsua and Dwarf Toss. I need to get my exercise on to keep up with Ivan. Or maybe do so with less pain. Made it as far as the gas station and got redirected to work. Still wearing my softshell pants and LaSportiva shoes. Tossed my backpack/haul bag of crap in the office corner so as to not fry the shoes in the 90 degree weather.
To wit:
"When the still sea conspires an armor
And her sullen and aborted
Currents breed tiny monsters
True climbing is dead ...."
File this under "non-climbing things which suck". BTW, Dwarf Toss is still ass deep in blackberry bushes unless someone else stepped up. Next weekend my boy graduates, so file that under things that make yer shoulders be pussed out cause you are being a dad and you need the exercise but won't get it.
Hmm, that didn't sound quite right. How about just: FARSIDE BUMP!!!!!
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From what I've pieced together, it was an over 50' ground fall. Leader was at the anchors, built the anchor and prepared for lower. The belayer began lowering. A few feet into the lower, the leader jumped or bounced off a ledge. This introduced slack into the system and pulled the rope out of the belayer's hand. She was unable to regain control of the rope. The leader impacted the ground with her butt and lower back.
My friend who was still out there is writing an accident report. I'll be sure to link it here when he's finished it.
I'm looking forward to your accident report detailing this belayer error. Curious how anyone could drop another, but especially while lowering from the ground. Slack in the system doesn't have anything to do with it. I caught a 250lber (sorry - no names) on a lead fall Saturday and it wasn't difficult. I am embarrassed to say I was noshing on an apple when it occurred. The leader had pulled a couple big rocks off at @ the 50-60' high mark which all but caused us to GTF out of sight and around the corner a tad. He climbed higher and out of sight, then another big rock noise and I had him locked off. He got the usual rope stretch as he was out @ 100 feet at that point on a 9.7 rope and I wasn't directly underneath. But nothing to speak of.
When I saw this report in the news I just figured it was the common miscommunication thing where the belayer thinks they are taking the leader off so they can rappel, but the leader is thinking they will be lowered so they lean back to lower and woomp -not on belay.
Jesus, the leader must be pretty messed up. My thoughts and prayers are with her.....wow. Hopefully she fully recovers.
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Celebrate the Civil War dead with this Memorial Day sale mega massive savings on a 10m x 60 Meter Edelweiss Flashlight 2. Dry treated with a middle mark. $89.99 http://www.steepandcheap.com/edelweiss-flashlight-ii-climbing-rope-10mm?skid=EDL001G-RD-S60M&ti=UExQIFJ1bGUgQmFzZWQ6TWVtb3JpYWwgRGF5IFNhbGU6MTo0MDo=
If you don't want the 10mm, plenty of other decent options on sale for a bit: http://www.steepandcheap.com/climbing-ropes?lazy=2&anchor=SIH001H
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LOL! That and steroid shots. Last time I went to the doctor she says (this is me paraphrasing) "2 words...2 words for the graduate...STEROID SHOTS". POP, right in the shoulder joints.
and I'm all like
[video:youtube]
Seriously, the hike up, just like last time we did it, revealed that the last 40 feet topout looks like it might be loose block death wish heaven. I think we can do it though....we'll see about that of course. The doctors might not have enough steroids for my weak ass shoulders:-)
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..... I suppose because there are no actual ads online for sheep husbandry.
Clearly you need more of those, after all, think of your target demographic here.
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Nice bump Bone. Anyone have any info about the most recent Ozone - Farside accident? From the overhead picture of the link, it appears to be Farside. But why did they drag the poor fellas ass through all that Poison Oak instead of the hiking trail? Pfft, "Cape Horn Trail" my ass... http://www.kptv.com/story/31952528/climber-falls-150-feet-down-embankment-in-skamania-county
As usual, even without knowing anything about the accident, I can tell that the news people clearly boffed the story. AS USUAL.
"Climber falls 20-25 feet down embankment in Skamania CountyPosted: May 11, 2016 6:21 PM PDT
Rescue crews responded to reports of a climber falling 20-25 feet down an embankment in Skamania County near SR 14.
Skamania County Sheriff's Office said Jerad West, 29, from Beaverton, was hiking with his brother and a friend west of Cape Horn off the Cape Horn Trail. They researched the climbing route. They arrived in the area but soon realized they were in the wrong location and the climb was more technical than they thought.
West fell and injured his leg.
EMS crews reached West and stabilized his leg. Rescue crews used a rope raising system to bring West up.
West was taken to Peace Health SW for treatment."
If this is one of my routes that I promised to put an extra bolt in (there are currently 3 at last count), I'd feel pretty damned bad. Wish the guy a quick and full recovery. Reminds me of Jons solo fall a while back where Bryan happened upon him. Darned good thing. That little yellow cam was up there for a while till JH went and got it back for Jon. Screwed up his ankle pretty good though. I was going to go clean off Tribal Therapy and Dwarf Toss the other day but the road crew was up top, and I've seen them toss off old timbers and I didn't want to be climbing below that kind of action so I changed plans and lapped the Cape Horn Trail (not the "closed due to Peregrines part" of course, up to the overlook). Young couple and friends were doing there wedding rehearsal there. I felt both like a a family friend being allowed to view a special intimate act, and a perv. Had to go and leave the young folks in peace. Good spot to get hitched if you could keep the public out for a bit I suppose.
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I want you belaying me (OK, just repeating what Gene already said). Nice catch Wayne. The classic belay story you've told is Tim Olsen catching you on Wind Mountain with his bare hands as you'd started up before he even had his harness on then pulled a rock.
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Are you serious it is called Leprechauns in Leotards? Who put that up if it wasn't Jim and Andrew? 11b??
Whoh, someone bit:
Nope. Not serious at all, 100 percent teasing Mr Pink. That's all. I left the happy face off thinking that would be even funnier, but I'm rethinking that now. I might need to put something like this on those posts:
Sorry!
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how much fixed gear is on the second pitch of smoked signals! i know i put some pins in on lead but we removed them as i was going to the ditch shortly after
7 bolts, 2 fixed pin's and a Link Cam. Oh, and please refer to the correct name, named by the first ascensions in 2009: Leprechauns in Leotards. 5.11B they say.
[TR] test - test 4/29/2016
in The rest of the US and International.
Posted
Wow, makes me feel damned lucky (typing with 9 fingers isn't something I'd want to learn). Congrats to you both for the recovery process. May it continue and life become even better. Stay healthy everyone!