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spew

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  • Homepage
    www.safeclimbing.com
  • Occupation
    Rock and Road gypsy
  • Location
    backcountry

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  1. Anyone else checked out the new sport climbing area in RNP 12 well bolted sport routes with anchors looks like 4 more in progress and more room for more, 5.8 to 5.11+ or harder 40 to 80 feet the starts are in the shade from the tall trees, all the hardware is painted black I only had time to do an 8,9 and a 11A they were really good, dark gray rock with incuts vertical to steeper no slabs.I found it from an over heard conversation like it's TS Park at the nisqually bridge lot walk accross the bridge cut left go uphill to the tree line and the bottom of the cliff, traverse left to the end and the sport climbs.
  2. ive heard of a fe of those recently. whats the point in doing them if you do not share? i mean i understand the sound of the roto hammer echoing off the walls of garfield is a wonderful thing, but it aint that cool. Thank you for the example Erik
  3. Please !! new route info topic only. No spray, 100% new route beta , where we all can post beta on our or others new routes , have all spray removed. 23 pitch clip up in the cascades, the FA party don't like being sprayed upon this board , so the rest of you go with out beta. NOW THATS A SHAME!!!!
  4. The crisscrossing routes in the center of nevermind wall. The possibility of a few classic routes could have been put up, instead low end climbers get on the 5.9\10-A cross over other routes and end up anywhere but where they are supposed to. What a mess
  5. well said replaceing bad bolts is ok If you don't like runouts put up your own routes.
  6. spew

    1

    It's old but still a classic. Somewhat different version.
  7. spew

    Retro-chopping

    How about some background beta: where, established crack? I have seen very few truly reto bolted cracks, if so I would chop it my self. If you chop, do it right and do it clean or you will be no better than the retrobolter. Don't forget a chicken bolt is just as needed on a unprotectable 5.8 as a 5.11 /5.12 test peice it all depends on whos route it is and your comfort level.
  8. There are better and cleaner ways of chopping bolts than ball joint busters and crowbars and the like, I will not go into that because of the missuse. To redrill from 3/8 to 1/2 inch your bit will probably get stuck . Remove bolt in a clean fashion, than use epoxy putty that you can get from most hardware stores like home depo, it mixes in you fingers, fill hole with this and cover with dirt and or small rock dust to finish ,as you get better even you will not be able to tell where the hole was . Than I would drill a GOOD hole . If I believe in your cause drop me a PM and I will tell you how to clean chop.
  9. spew

    Tax Cut

    Whoa!!! I just got home from work. The point I was trying to make is we all need to let our politicians know we don't mind paying our fair share. Wealthy people getting enormous tax breaks is not our fair share. As climbers we need to share public lands and open space and unite with other user groups and stop this pay to play. The great outdoors was ment to be enjoyed by the poor as well as the rich. Be informed, think about the big picture before you vote.
  10. Don't clean it! Ground up ascent, toss a few things out on the way up. Traditional values of ground up no cleaning have been established in the NW by a late great crackmaster. Suck it up and send it!
  11. spew

    Tax Cut

    Save the Tax cut I want my economy, social and health services, jobs, good roads, and most of all my free recreation on public lands back! The pidly little amount they get from my check is nothing compared to what the fat cats are saveing. If all the user groups would learn to share and unite we could be a major voting force!
  12. Exit 38 at nevermind has good undocumented bouldering that stays dry in the rain if you take a junk dome tent and a heater it can make for a good time even in the winter. A classic V-2 35ft traverse at the wayout boulder at exit 38 on the way up the trail to the sport climbing Vantage: as listed in the new guide book V-5 to dropoff point V-7-X highball problem 45 degree roof that stays dry in the pouring rain, even has an old mattress, this problem will work you to a flamed out condition , it did me in, other undocumented problems also there. Leavenworth is the best and has a guide but the weather this time of year can be a little harsh
  13. I heard that the dummy was quite elaborate(the police don't want details leaked out till they bust the creeps) and that the couple who found the body were experienced mountaineers and climbers. The reason they didn't get close to the body was to preserve the area for the police investigation, hey it had been a week since the tower was pushed over, think the climber would still be alive The police told the couple they handled the situation appropriately. With the events of the past few years at Vantage it's obvious that a few assholes are going to fuk up a good thing for the rest of us.
  14. spew

    Propaganda

    Anyone seen the ad bought with our tax dollars on HLN ( head line news ) A joint of pot smoked in the USA gets a family killed in Columbia What up with dat they think we all road the short bus. Makes you think about the other crap they are shoveling. [ 10-18-2002, 03:43 PM: Message edited by: spew ]
  15. Oh yeah! (buckets)atc ect. not only do you get aluminum shaveings from the device you also wear out and get shaveings from the Locking carabiner. Try treading that atc with gloves on ,and what up with that cable? On an alpine route on easy ground when your partner is moveing fast the 8 in rap mode can reel in the slack much faster When you want to free hang lock off, just flip the rope accross, Buckets rap the rope around your leg [ 10-16-2002, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: spew ]
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