bchaps

Hey all, just got my pictures back from my 5 week road trip. If you would like to check them out they are on imagestation. You will need an account to view them. (It's free) Hope you like them! Bill http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289447767

Beck, your "The Dude"? Whoa! I'm still pulling my hair out to figure out what's best. I don't have a job so funding is limited. I've been thinking more about the routes I am planning on doing and 2 (Washington Column and Leaning Tower) do not require a ledge - although the Prow will, S face won't. The Nose can be done without it, although it is sometimes soo crowded, one would certainly be advantageous. Lurking fear would need a ledge though. I think I am going to hold off getting a ledge. Maybe pick a used one up in the valley. bill Thanks for all the different views and opinions everyone!!!

You know, i just re-read your post and realised you were doing the SE Ridge, where as I was doing the SW Ridge. Oops.. SW Ridge is a.k.a. Surf's Up on the other side of Snowpatch. To bail, we just rapped from the numerous slings on horns to the left of the route. Although it turned out we ended up on route after looking at the topo later. We did 2 awesome roofs on the first 2 pitches (which is too far to the right) and then were too far left the whole way to the 5th pitch. On the 5th, we were on the SW Ridge Direct, but the 6th pitch's crack was dirty so we figured we were still off route. It turns out it was the "Direct" way up. The next day we saw people doing the same thing we did but they reversed a pitch and found the proper/easier way up and made it to Surf's up Ledge. Next time I'll get it! 8)

Hey winter, nice meeting you up there. Yes there was an amazing 3 week window of great weather up there. I was able to get in on the last week of it on my way back from the tetons. The forecast looked bleak for the next week, so I bailed. I'm glad you were able to do the NE Ridge of Bugaboo. I was trying to find partners for that ALL WEEK with no success. In my limited time I was able to get up: Lions Way II 5.6 W Ridge Pigeon II 5.4 NE Ridge Pigeon III? 5.6 60 degree snow/ice (Very cool route which is obviously not climbed too often - covered in licheon) McTech Arete III 5.10a (Awesome jamming with diect finish) Attempted SW Ridge of Snowpatch III 5.8 - 1st 5 pitches only - routefinding issues... Overall it was just a spectacular place. Regarding the accident & rockfall - The pigeon-snowpatch col approached seemed relatively safe but longer, while the direct approach up the bugaboo glacier looked like there would be more objective danger. I was debating the direct approach, but figured the bergshrunds/crevasses were still manageable. Glad to hear you made it back safely! bill

Thanks for all the info. I think from what I've gathered here, I won't get a fly and go with the bivy sack. Much cheaper option too! 8)

I'm going to the valley in a couple weeks to do my first big walls and came across a problem. I was looking at the BD Skylounge and when I put the fly on, there were no doors/ventilation. How in the world would you cook, even breathe after a few hours... I have not been able to find a bobshelter with a fly here locally, so I cannot compare them. (It has a window, but does not open) I'm curious what everyone here does? bivysack? The dude at marmot recommended to put a custom door/screen put on. They also brought out an expensive bibler big wall tent that fit quite well in the ledge and was very logically designed, but expensive. Thanks for all your help! bill

I was going to go this weekend, but earlier would be better. Still looking for folks to go? bill bchaps@yahoo.com

Thanks for all the great info. So much information!!! It looks like I may just go to squamish for a week. Then next week, head to the Tetons due to all the reccomendations of weather etc. and try to get a little better conditions. bill

Thanks for the great info! I guess I may be going a little early this season, but over the next couple weeks hopefully more routes will shape up. I'll just have to scope things out when I get there. bill

I'm heading to the Tetons Monday for a couple weeks. I will be climbing mostly long moderate climbs (5.7-5.9 and/or WI3/AI3). What would you suggest? What are your favorites? There are just soooo many in the Classics book. Obviously the Exum Direct is on the list. thanks! bill

Anyone up for some beautiful weather vs. this overcast stuff out west? Would be up for a last second 2 day trip to the pass. Any takers? Bill bchaps@yahoo.com

I'm also available for weekday climbing. Alpine anyone? Just shoot me an email and let me know. Bill bchaps@yahoo.com

Lots of errors trying to add an attachment.. If you really want a picture, just shoot me an email. bill Oh -- I'm a miniwanker now!

Hey dude! First $7500 takes the boat. (See attached picture) I will probably list it for 10k when I get off my butt. This is a steal. I paid $15k, but my unemployment checks aren't really covering this. 8) It needs 2 minor repairs. 1. the throttle cable needs adjusted so you will get the full range of reverse - vs. 150% of forward. 2. the engine needs the standard stuff - oil change, battery recharged etc... It hasn't been started in over a year. It's a 27' O'Day with a modified keel - 3' draft 2 double cabins w/head - no shower though galley, sink & stove (alcohol) the dining room converts for 2 more beds. dingy many PFDs and ton's of other stuff. If anyone wants to buy a boat, let me know! 8) bill

Just got back from a 6 week roadtrip (J-Tree, Yosemite, Smith) and am ready to get going again. Would anyone be interested in doing anything this week? Mountaineering, alpine, rock, etc?? bill bchaps@yahoo.com

Hey NYC, I'll be driving down Saturday Morning. I drive a black Xterra. See you there! Bill

Do you mean Middle Cathedral? Cathedral Peak is in Tuolumne and is readily doable, after Tioga Pass road opens. Usually mid-May to Memorial Day lately. Hey cj, I mean Cathedral Peak. Tuolumne is at 8-9000' +/- if I remember correctly. Depending on conditions - I'm not taking my skiis or anything - I would love to get out there and do it. Thanks for the head's up on the pass closure. I will check before I leave which passes are open/closed etc. Thanks for all the info everyone. I'm outta here - Taking my WFR starting tomorrow.

Great suggestion Lambone! I just looked it up in the book. NE Buttress it is!

Norsky - About DNB - It's on my undecided list. I'll probably error to the side of caution on that one, but I'll ask around when I get down there. Yes, Serenity was my favorite climb there too. I climbed it twice. Although I could never get anyone to continue on to sons... The difficulty was getting others to get up early so we could be up it before the sun hit... It felt like a frying pan once the sun came round.

Well, I was thinking of it. I just need to figure out a system for rap/cleaning full overhanging pitches. Rap-clean with a grigri would work, but there is that lovely swing into space to look forward too... I would just need to get comfortable with that. Thanks for all the info everyone!! Bill

Thanks for the info Lambone!! Here's the current tick list. It's sure to change depending on partner availability in Camp 4. East Buttress Serenity/Sons of Yesterday DNB - undecided Arches Reeds Pinnacle Pink Dream Crack of Doom Fatal Mistake if I can find a rope gun. I saw this crack from the road last fall and it was just beautiful. Cathedral Peak - depending on conditions and weather. And a wall (grade IV-V), but not sure what yet. I'll be going solo, so nobody even think of suggesting the leaning tower! 8)

Ixta was closed? I climbed it on 11/01. Oops.. Maybe that's why I only saw one other party the whole time on the "La Arista del Sol" route.

Hey all, I'm planning on going to Yosemite in a couple weeks. Anyone know what the weather is generally like Late April/Early May? thanks! Oh, anyone interested in carpooling just send me a pm. Bill

Anyone interested in carpooling/ice climbing in Feb? I plan on staying for the month. Let me know if you're interested. (bchaps@yahoo.com or 425.503.4360) I just got off the phone with the Alpine Club of Canada and most of the classics are in and conditions are good. -bill

I would be up for anything but skiing. Shoot me an email if you would like to go to index or something like that. Bill - bchaps@yahoo.com