bchaps

Get yourself a neoprene case for SLRs and attach a biner to each side. This clips nicely on the back of your harness. Works great for technical routes, with some possible problems in chimneys.

Thanks! Tim, pictures would be awesome!!!

Does anyone have any info on skagway, ak? Is there any decent climbing there? I'm debating a summer job there. Thanks!

I just did some winter ascents in Potrero Chico! 8)

Thanks will & lummox. I just emailed omnibus for some info. hopefully everything will work out. bill

I'm actually from NE Pa. Wilkes-Barre/Scranton - a small town called Mountain Top. I used to drive to Pitt and party when I was 19. Good Eats at O's, and then off to have many Purple Hooters and 5 cent drafts of Iron City. I had some good times there.

Ha! Pitt/Penn is probably one of the few cities/states where 80's music has a high probability of making the top 10 request lists. I hate the radio stations there!!! It is really pathetic. I can say this because I am originally from Pennsyltucky..

I have a fair chance of being there this christmas. Does anyone know the best city to take the bus to? The "Dog" does not list Monterray as a destination. thanks! bill

I'm going to be in Austin, Texas for a week in the near future. Could someone recommend a couple nice areas to check out. Preferably not bouldering areas. Also, I may go to Potrero for Christmas. Does anyone know the nearest place to take the bus too? Monterey doesn't seem to be on the "Dog's" list of destinations. Thanks! bill

Anyone interested in climbing at all this week? I need to go to Pittsburgh on Friday, but am open every other day. Big Four or take our chances at squamish or ??? Bill

Got a call today from a friend in Calgary. The ice is good in the greater Canmore areas now. Unfortunately I am working a lot now... or is that fortunately...

No Texass! I'm installing wireless internet in hotels across the country on weekends. My friend's company is based out of Texass. Kaia, are you back from yosemite or are you in Colorado?

Climb with half ropes, then you don't have to worry about trailing, carrying an extra line etc.. much safer too.

There is a new guide book (King Climbers) put out last november when I was there. I haven't seen it in the states yet, but if you want to borrow it, just let me know. (Unfortunately, I won't probably be going back for a bit) If you can rough it a bit, here's what $20/day gets ya on Ton Sai. I think the conversion rate was 40baht = $1USD Room: 200-300 baht/night - Note: you can negotiate rates if you are staying for a while - 2 minute walk from the beach Breakfast: Great bannana porrage or pancakes at the andaman cafe Lunch: - skip it and climb Dinner: 300-400 baht 2 servings of fresh fish off the boat (shark, tuna, sea bass, squid, and kingfish?) Massage: 250-350 baht/hr Beer on the beach: 100-200 baht (if I remember correctly) Incredible sunsets: free! Naked fat europeans sunning on Pra Nang: free! Herb is free at the bar too, if you do that type of thing. I hear it's the munchies that get expensive though. Here's a couple pics for ya. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291019087 Attached is a sunset. Have fun! bill

In the Tetons (if i remember correctly), Exum pays porters $100 per load to the upper saddle. What a great way to finance the summer at the climbers ranch! I doubt if rmi does this, as they probably have their jr guides do it. (just a guess though)

Had a great summer road tripping, and am ready to hit the local scene again. Anyone up for some climbing this week, next week? The forecast looks ok (1-2 days of rain). WA Pass, Smith, Squamish, Index, sport climbing, other suggestions? bill

I leave tomorrow morning and will be there until November 1st. I'll probably be the only black xterra with WA plates. Hope to see you all there! I'm going solo, so If anyone needs a climbing partner, come find me! 8) -bill

I'm going to Yosemite this week for 2 months to hone in the wall skills. I hope to see you all there. Look me up. I have a black Xterra. If you don't mind a big wall newbie, I'm your man! If the climbs below peak your interest, let me know. Route list: Washington Column - S Face, Prow Leaning Tower - W Face El Cap - Lurking Fear, Nose (I would volunteer for Zodiac, but don't have a ledge) Free climbs: E butt Mid Cathedral E butt El Cap Fairview Dome - Reg Route

You can climb with lingering intoxication in the morning! 8)

I know it's late, but would anyone be interested in Town Crier, Green Dragon, or maybe some free climbs tomorrow? bill bchaps@yahoo.com

I'm open on Wed (and Tue if work falls through) for something (rock,alpine,or???). Just shoot me an email if you're still in need of a partner. bchaps@yahoo.com

Hey all, just got my pictures back from my 5 week road trip. If you would like to check them out they are on imagestation. You will need an account to view them. (It's free) Hope you like them! Bill http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289447767

Beck, your "The Dude"? Whoa! I'm still pulling my hair out to figure out what's best. I don't have a job so funding is limited. I've been thinking more about the routes I am planning on doing and 2 (Washington Column and Leaning Tower) do not require a ledge - although the Prow will, S face won't. The Nose can be done without it, although it is sometimes soo crowded, one would certainly be advantageous. Lurking fear would need a ledge though. I think I am going to hold off getting a ledge. Maybe pick a used one up in the valley. bill Thanks for all the different views and opinions everyone!!!

You know, i just re-read your post and realised you were doing the SE Ridge, where as I was doing the SW Ridge. Oops.. SW Ridge is a.k.a. Surf's Up on the other side of Snowpatch. To bail, we just rapped from the numerous slings on horns to the left of the route. Although it turned out we ended up on route after looking at the topo later. We did 2 awesome roofs on the first 2 pitches (which is too far to the right) and then were too far left the whole way to the 5th pitch. On the 5th, we were on the SW Ridge Direct, but the 6th pitch's crack was dirty so we figured we were still off route. It turns out it was the "Direct" way up. The next day we saw people doing the same thing we did but they reversed a pitch and found the proper/easier way up and made it to Surf's up Ledge. Next time I'll get it! 8)

Hey winter, nice meeting you up there. Yes there was an amazing 3 week window of great weather up there. I was able to get in on the last week of it on my way back from the tetons. The forecast looked bleak for the next week, so I bailed. I'm glad you were able to do the NE Ridge of Bugaboo. I was trying to find partners for that ALL WEEK with no success. In my limited time I was able to get up: Lions Way II 5.6 W Ridge Pigeon II 5.4 NE Ridge Pigeon III? 5.6 60 degree snow/ice (Very cool route which is obviously not climbed too often - covered in licheon) McTech Arete III 5.10a (Awesome jamming with diect finish) Attempted SW Ridge of Snowpatch III 5.8 - 1st 5 pitches only - routefinding issues... Overall it was just a spectacular place. Regarding the accident & rockfall - The pigeon-snowpatch col approached seemed relatively safe but longer, while the direct approach up the bugaboo glacier looked like there would be more objective danger. I was debating the direct approach, but figured the bergshrunds/crevasses were still manageable. Glad to hear you made it back safely! bill