Attitude

B

And this is just hiking to the crag....

I like my

Hmmm. The seller was (presumed) guilty when Holly bought that rack on Capital Hill.

PM to anonymous gear seller: Did you steal the rack? PM reply: No. I guess that settles that.

Ahh, but if you had squatted down while you were reeling him and then immediately jumped up, you would have prevented his rock rash. I do this all the time.

I have the same issues with my regular alpine partner. I rack on a sling and he racks on his harness. Our compromise is to let the leader do what he wants. At belays, I'll grab what I want off his harness when it's my turn to lead and he'll grab gear off the sling when it's his turn. This adds a little time to the belays (but not much) but the leader is comfortable with the racking system (which is more important).

Wilderness First

REI has a sale going on. 20% off on AlpineAire northernmountain.com usually sells food for 20% off.

Hi Norm, Gear gets stolen. People sell stolen gear. One example. I'm shocked that you're surprised. Where did you climb around Auburn? I've climbed further north in Alabama at a place I think was called Sandrock? It's been awhile.

Has anyone checked this guy out?

Does Vertical World still have this?

WAC WFA

Wilderness Medicine Training Center Beck could sponsor a WFA class during the Rope-a-Dope.

Cool. I see another round of Mountie bashing coming....

Morons. Spherical is the shape that minimizes surface contact with liquid contents.

So that people can return it to you when you lose the silly thing.

I've had a pair for the past 3 yrs and put quite a few miles on them. The sole has some flexibility Pro. The leather has softened up enough that the ankle is flexible for Freedom technique on ice. I've front pointed with them as well using hinged crampons (strap-ons). The sole has some flexibility which is good for downhill hiking for me. They are wider in the toebox and come in a wide width as well. Con. There is no rubber rand over the toe so the leather in that area has gotten chewed up by scree. The stitching on the heel is coming apart. my orthotics have chewed up the Goretex liner. I still use them for dry trips as they are comfy, but I bought a pair of Solomons to replace them for slogs and rainy day trips.

And don't forget to have your name on it.

One barista responds....

How about coffee-flavored coffee?

Banning dildo avys would help the signal-to-noise around here as well.

I agree it would take a longer time to fall and bounce 10 ft , but a climber-like object in free fall will take about 0.6 sec to fall 10 ft. Jump off a 10 ft high ladder. In ~0.6 sec you will hit the ground. I'll have to think about this, as there are two antagonistic factors. A shorter fall means a lower terminal velocity, but a shorter rope means higher deceleration, therefore higher forces on the protection. Unfortunately, my analysis will involve physical modeling. When is the "moment of the catch"? The freefalling climber reaches terminal velocity right before the rope goes taut, then decelerates until he stops moving downward, and then bounces for a short period. It may be a natural reaction to try to do this, but I'll bet it is a learned behavior to do it correctly (i.e. without yarding too soon and pulling the climber off his sketchy stance or not having him effectively locked off at the "moment of the catch").

We're not in a court of law, counselor. I'm not claiming that one number fits every climbing situation. If your climber is "desparately tries to cling to a lower hold after missing a reach" and you're yarding on the rope, you could be pulling them off their stance. If not, then the clock starts when they pop off that hold and they are in free fall. Actually my calculation overestimates the time to react and do something, as it doesn't take into account the rope. If you're yarding on the rope as it starts elongating, then you are adding to the force the pro must hold.

So your buddy starts sketching, so you start yarding on the rope. Once you've taken up some of the slack, you're adding tension to the rope and effectively pulling him downward off his stance.