Attitude

Wilderness Medicine Training Center Beck could sponsor a WFA class during the Rope-a-Dope.

Cool. I see another round of Mountie bashing coming....

Morons. Spherical is the shape that minimizes surface contact with liquid contents.

So that people can return it to you when you lose the silly thing.

I've had a pair for the past 3 yrs and put quite a few miles on them. The sole has some flexibility Pro. The leather has softened up enough that the ankle is flexible for Freedom technique on ice. I've front pointed with them as well using hinged crampons (strap-ons). The sole has some flexibility which is good for downhill hiking for me. They are wider in the toebox and come in a wide width as well. Con. There is no rubber rand over the toe so the leather in that area has gotten chewed up by scree. The stitching on the heel is coming apart. my orthotics have chewed up the Goretex liner. I still use them for dry trips as they are comfy, but I bought a pair of Solomons to replace them for slogs and rainy day trips.

And don't forget to have your name on it.

One barista responds....

How about coffee-flavored coffee?

Banning dildo avys would help the signal-to-noise around here as well.

I agree it would take a longer time to fall and bounce 10 ft , but a climber-like object in free fall will take about 0.6 sec to fall 10 ft. Jump off a 10 ft high ladder. In ~0.6 sec you will hit the ground. I'll have to think about this, as there are two antagonistic factors. A shorter fall means a lower terminal velocity, but a shorter rope means higher deceleration, therefore higher forces on the protection. Unfortunately, my analysis will involve physical modeling. When is the "moment of the catch"? The freefalling climber reaches terminal velocity right before the rope goes taut, then decelerates until he stops moving downward, and then bounces for a short period. It may be a natural reaction to try to do this, but I'll bet it is a learned behavior to do it correctly (i.e. without yarding too soon and pulling the climber off his sketchy stance or not having him effectively locked off at the "moment of the catch").

We're not in a court of law, counselor. I'm not claiming that one number fits every climbing situation. If your climber is "desparately tries to cling to a lower hold after missing a reach" and you're yarding on the rope, you could be pulling them off their stance. If not, then the clock starts when they pop off that hold and they are in free fall. Actually my calculation overestimates the time to react and do something, as it doesn't take into account the rope. If you're yarding on the rope as it starts elongating, then you are adding to the force the pro must hold.

So your buddy starts sketching, so you start yarding on the rope. Once you've taken up some of the slack, you're adding tension to the rope and effectively pulling him downward off his stance.

You can't dismiss the Laws of Physics. Sorry.

"Reeling In" another

A 50 ft free fall takes about 1.3 seconds. I'm guessing that each reel can take maybe 3 ft. of rope. Therefore, the belayer would have to have reeled 3-4 times to keep the climber from hitting the ledge by 10 ft.

I believe this discussion was started in response to the accident reported by Scott. Not knowing anything else, I though it interesting to estimate a fall time since some people implied he should have been able to "reel in the leader" yeah but rarely do you just start free falling... you shoe rubber will slowly start to go or something like this... Rarely? I've been climbing and suddenly found myself falling more than once. Of course, my footwork isn't very good. Climbing at 3 ft/sec would add about 5 hundredths of a second to the fall time. I don't think that is significant. Agreed. We're just trying to define what is the right context. Ooozing off a runout slab, probably. Popping off a vertical face one foot above your last clip, probably not.

Party in the Cascades

On a vertical face, it takes an object about 0.6 sec to fall 10 ft. That's not a lot of time.

Lithium AA batteries work great in cold weather. I keep my Olympus D490 in a case on my shoulder harness, which works great, except on steep rock where it sometimes gets in the way.

In Scott's thread you said This is an accusation formed as a question. Later in the thread you said Sounds like you made assumptions.

Huh? From the MSR web page... the minimum weight of the Simmerlite is 8.5 oz. The minimum weight of the Whisperlite Shaker is 11 oz. So the difference in weight between the two stoves is 2.5 oz. The difference in "packaged weight" (less relevant) between the stoves is even smaller, 2.3 oz. Even the fatty XGK is not 5-6 oz heaver than the Simmerlite. It is only 3.5 oz heavier (and for those extra ounces you get another 2000 BTU of heating over the simmerlite, at max efficiency). http://www.msrcorp.com Fine, believe what you want. I had them both, I weighed them both, it's a much bigger difference than 2oz. I went to REI, grabbed their display models (stove + small bottle) for the Simmerlite and Whisperlite and headed over to their scales by the tents. The difference in weight was about 2 oz.

100 m

Not surprising. Ryan and Marcie are good people.

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My GF disagrees.