RuMR

perfect example of what i'm talking about...one letter grade in difference...big f-ing deal...move on already...

The Kevbone [predicatable and meaningless] Mantra! Uhhh...kev...you've been SLAMMED by the dawg!!! Talk about a bruised ego... :lmao:

My apologies. I didn't intend to complain about anything, only to offer an accurate history of the how and why behind soft sport grades. You're old enough to know I'm right. Do I have a problem with soft sport grades? Not really. When one needs an ego stroke, he knows where to go. The only potential/theoretical problem is when a sport climber decides to borrow a rack. Perhaps he wouldn't expect to have to climb a full grade lower, but he'll figure it out quickly and probably won't get hurt. I've dabbled in sport climbing, just a couple of trips to Smith Rock when it was raining everywhere else. I used to think sport climbing was better than no climbing. Now when the rain falls I'd prefer to ride my mountain bike or hike/scramble. Smith Rock is a long drive....and for what? What I've noticed about sport climbing is that out-of-doors, it's pretty easy. Off the couch and with a beer gut, I climbed 5.11 all day in North Bend. Similar results at Smith. In fact, one year at Smith I got an 11d first try, tied in with a bowline on a coil. With a big-boobied belayer who left six feet of slack in the dirt at all times. The same year I would routinely get shut down on 5.10+ gear climbs. Out doors, sport climbing is easy. All that is required is 2.5 seconds of staying power to make the clips. Natural rock offers purchases for your feet that your typical sport climber fails to see quickly. At the gym, I find the lead climbs incredibly hard. I used to train Sunday mornings with Scotty Hopkins down at the VC and later the VW. I'd be blasted after a couple of 5.10/5.11- leads. The climbs seemed extra physical. You couldn't employ precise foot work to minimize the pump. Out of doors, these grades seemed easy enough to climb all day, sport or gear. see kimmo...i soooo told you that blue/hot pink taped route was 5.X+ at least...even poopy thinks so... Pope...your memory is fading...you told me about the whole 5.11+/bowline thing happening at Little Si (I still have the pm), you even told me the route name (Aborigine)...funny thing...that was a burdo rating when you were up there...the laugher is that its checking in around 11- (a or b) now...maybe it happened at smith also... I'm struggling to think of any 10+ gear routes that i know of that are as hard as the 11+ smith routes (although i do know of some 11+/12- gear routes there that are stout)...maybe some specifics here will help me??? I'm getting old to so my memory is fading as well...

Huh? I have no prob with BJ's. (Get me drunk enough and I might let you "speak into the microphone"). In fact, I think rock climbers should get BJ's, I just think they should get them the old-fashioned way. They should earn them. you volunteering your services?? BAWAHAHAHA SUCK IT!

how come this stupid thread has my name on it???? i don't even climb anymore...

...and of course Mr. Cilley...but he didn't actually say anything... oh yeah, and dwayner, supposin' he actually wins that longstanding bet/dare might be able to say sumpin'...

there was another in this thread who could also qualify for my comment. yeah...tim and now, kimmo...peter wasn't too shabby either...

t th f redmond and everett m w f seattle

yeah...uhhhh...that would be me mentioning the grade thing...and uhhh, the hot pink blue thing is sooo not what they called it...those vicious sandbagging punks... My point, mr. kimmo, was that honestly, if there is a difference between the two, its one to two letter grades, tops...and i'll get into arguments with people over a single route and its rating...its so subjective that the difference is irrelevant... if ratings were 5.X-, 5.X, or 5.X+ the discussion wouldn't even occur. And, further, people in my twenty + on and off years of climbing, really only cared about grades as a measurement stick...sheesh...

yeah...maybe if they halve their stated capacity, then they *might* just test out... Or, maybe they should just "cease and desist" before someone gets their ass killed...

First rate program with a lot of continuity... for me, kids that started there under 10 years old and continue to climb for the team all the way through high school and into college means good things...very few of these kids leave after they've become team members... several national champs in bouldering, speed, and difficulty have come from the program and many US Team members... Look into it...

Thanks Aric... any reaction from CCH??

hence my referencing Ben...keep up with the conversation, porter....

bug...check your pm's...call me... -rudy

my bad...you were explaining why you thought they were different...

i wasn't saying that you, (but poop and joseph were) were griping about ratings...I was just saying that at most, maybe its a letter grade off one way or the other... i honestly think its more what ben said...ie, you will find what you do more of easier...

We obviously climb very different trad lines... not really, big guy...back in the day, ol' petey would have given you a decent run for your $$$

anyone notice that people griping about grades are older and primarily past their cranking prime?? Having just come back from a relatively fresh event, with young , energetic, motivated cranking climbers, ratings weren't even an issue...in fact they weren't even rated...and no one gave a shit... and then, you take a climber like Ben, accomplished at both well protected trad, scary trad and hard sport, and well, guess what, he doesn't really care anyway... funny thing, all this hairsplitting, the actual rating is + or - a couple of grades one way or the other...big f-ing deal... and...some areas really have their own rating scale (ie, ex 38) and gee, pretty much everyone figures that out and moves on with it...

weekend tr... fly to sacramento to watch our local kids crush... congrats to all who moved on to Nationals in SLC!

tim/jeff... ...spot on... All i know is that hot pink and blue taped problem is waaaaay sicker!!

i think i'm gonna climb GODZILLA dis weekend!

exactly JayB, exactly... inside jokes are one thing, but professionalism, decency, etc. are another thing... it would be great to hear sides from others in the story...

still in there...

Tribal Tramp Stamp?? For realz? Did no one tell you that tribal tramp stamps are, um, ah, not as cool as you think they are, shall we say? I have a tattoo on my dick that reads "WY!" at times. The ladies think I'm a proud Wyoming native until they realize later that it says "Welcome to the Pleasure Bone! Have a nice day! obviusly you used that new Microsoft font size written for microchips... 0.005pt font-size...

no way....really??