Jump to content

RuMR

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11523

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by RuMR

    Smith?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Hey DFA...

     

    Its only heinous cuz the stupid bolt is a foot or two below you w/ crunchy ledges to whack into...and hey, I said 11+ SLAB didn't I? Isn't that the definition of gross???

    Smith?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Dru...

     

    *approach* pitch to Time2Power is 5.6 w/ one .11+ slab move...for the full meal deal climb the whole thing from the ground...excellent route w/ a crux that is ezier if you're short and then fun jug hauling through the steep top...Its hard to believe the route doesn't get more action than it does...

    I've been humbled

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    trask: I agree I think anna's more than whipped herself enough that there is no need for a dogpile.

     

    She'll be fine, though...that's my suspician...not knowing her, but rereading her initial posts, i think she knows what's up and will get a good base in one way or another via friends or, as Lambone suggested, professional instruction.

     

    My pop's an old air force pilot...so I can identify w/ her flying analogies as i heard them growing up. She'll get that checklist mentality going and there won't be any stopping her...

     

    SO, YOU WANNA RACE FOR ANOTHER PAGE TOP??? [Razz][Razz]

     

    [ 11-01-2002, 01:53 PM: Message edited by: RuMR ]

    I've been humbled

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Anna...

     

    as you said it "live and learn"...in the final analysis, you'll be a far better climber because this happened and you got a chance to walk away from it to come back w/ a bigger set of tools (not your partners, but your skillz [smile] )

     

    I think just about every poster (including mr. chips) has done something stupid once or twice (and sometimes more) during their climbing career...and the fact that they are here to *critique* your experience that day is only because they got their share of good luck on a bad day...

     

    Good luck and if i bump into you in cognito at smith or somewhere else, i'll share a rope w/ you...

    I've been humbled

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Lambone...

     

    I'm not sticking up for Chippy's lack of tact at all (ref. Gregw here)...but what i think what he's saying should be she had "no business being on the sharp end on that route" versus "no right ......"

     

    you know that you've seen some really really shitty stuff at the gym and said something to prevent an accident...being an experienced climber, you KNEW something wasn't right and it was your obligation to say something...face it, her partners are just as responsible (if she tied in w/ them) as her for her situation by virtue of the fact that they were experienced enough to know better...

     

    Mr. Chips could probably use a course on pc talking but i think his points are valid...except for the personal slam on you...I have seen you do exactly what he is saying, albeit in a "kinder, gentler" fashion.

    I've been humbled

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Lambone,

     

    I think Mr. Chips does have a point in saying that the partner should have been a little more diligent. How do you think the people there would feel if they had to cart out a dead person? I can't even remember how many times i've seen something sketchy and said something and there was no accident to deal w/... I totally agree w/ Mr. Chips saying she got away w/ pure fricken' luck...hell, the piece that caught her she didn't even place...Now assuming that the anchor she placed was (or should have been) multiple pieces, and they all blew, what is the likelihood that the critical piece of gear, had she of place it, would have held...My vote is absolutely ZERO and in good conscience, I would have stepped up and said "I don't think you can lead this and if you choose to proceed i am not going to be a party to it"...

    The True nature of the DFA

    in Spray

    Posted

    Chuck

    WHoops...forgot to answer your first question regarding why changing the physical difficulty isn't the same as the danger level...

     

    This is similar to the aesthetic issue in that its all relative to the individual. You probably run it out a whole lot more on easy (this is relative to your ability) than on hard (also relative) terrain, right?

     

    So a 5.12 or 5.13 climber could very easily take the stance that 10 bolts or 1 bolt or no bolts will not impact the difficulty of a 5.8 line, but you can bet your bottom dollar he'd want those bolts (at least enough to keep him off the deck) if he was operating near his own personal limit. I don't think its fair to say that protection bolts make a route easier or harder as a blanket statement. In order to say that, it depends on the climber and the climb. Moot question and it again boils down to an aesthetics issue and an impact one. In my mind, those are more reasonable arguments for or against bolting than saying its like chipping because it makes the route easier.

    The True nature of the DFA

    in Spray

    Posted

    A0 bolt --> aid

     

    Chipping (to make it easier) --> aid

     

    Protection bolt --> still gotta pull on the *natural* line

     

    so i guess i would say the A0 bolt is equal to chipping for ease of climbing; although aesthetically its not... but that's the funny thing about aesthetics...its subjective and in each persons own mind. Main reason i'm an engineer and not an architect.

    The True nature of the DFA

    in Spray

    Posted

    That was kinda my feeling.

     

    There are several routes at smith that i did earlier repeats of. Being a little bit shorter, i'd find a different way than the "intended" way, only to come back to link it and find the hold broken off or the hold filled in w/ glue. This was after the first ascent had been done!!

    The True nature of the DFA

    in Spray

    Posted

    perhaps you could differentiate bolts/chipping by looking at the damage to the rock? Bolts can be pulled (as a few members on this board have done) and patched and are virtually invisible. A drilled pocket/chipped edge is definitely visible.

     

    Bolts also don't alter the physical difficulty of the line, only the level of danger. In my mind there is a HUGE difference between a bolt and a chipped hold.

    Take A Powder. Crux pissin hard.

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Hey rg2k...I have done that one, its hard and kinda has a nasty fall for your ankle if you aren't careful...gotta wait for cold for it...

     

    No, went up into cocaine and stayed there until it cooled...it was a mob scene on the front side...

     

    When are you next getting down there??

×
×
  • Create New...