RuMR
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Posts posted by RuMR
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sexual_chocolate said:
It is quite relative.
Is it ENTIRELY relative? Hmmmm.....
Not entirely relative...more that for dick-head, 5.11 is sick hard perchance...
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richard_noggin said:
Something poped into my head while slaveing away in the coal mine today. If preplaceing gear is acceptiable than i could get First ascents on sick hard cracks. Now pink is pink and red is red but maybe I would be willing to bend the rules a bit. In the past i have been a 5.10 crack climber but with these new rules I could be a sick hard 5.11 crack climber .
So all you rock cop ethics judges better speak up or I will dawn a pair of spandex, rap, clean, preplace gear, sportcrack sent it and call them First ascents.
Ummm..."Sick hard 5.11 crack climber" doesn't go together unless you happen to be ill w/ the flu, reading a penthouse and then start climbing...
I'm not sure what the definition of "sick, hard" crack climbing is, but i don't think 5.11 is in it...maybe its relative though...
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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:
This was several years back.
Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say was originally chipped, and some say was just a pretty good hold. Churning having one or two suspiciously uniform pockets on it anyway, the former would not be a big surprise. Anyway! Rumor has it that Cory's girlfriend was working on Churning but was having trouble, and so for her birthday, he drilled out the aforementioned jug a bit bigger, so she could cop a better rest and get the send.
Now, Churning is an immensely popular route at Smith, as you may have noticed, and it's a very fun climb. Needless to say, many local climbers were not happy to hear that a Smith Rock icon had been retro-chipped, and Cory was essentially run out of town. 'Cause who would want to associate with the guy who chipped Churning? Exactly. That Cory was the chipper is not in doubt. The circumstances surrounding the chipping (For his girlfriend's birthday? C'mon!) have probably been embellished, as they sound a little too convenient and foofy to be true (fabricated, perhaps, to further denigrate Mr. Jones?), but there you have it.
Although according to Alan Watts recently, Churning is apparently at least as hard as it used to be, so enough other choss must have come off over the years to balance out the new comfybucket. Apparently a natural pocket near the top has also crumbled recently, leaving a shitty pinch which gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck.
There ya hav'it!
Churning is indeed an evolving living route!! BAWAHAHAHAHA
Used to be that there was a giganto foot ledge from which to recompose yourself at the sixth bolt while hanging onto a juggo-hold...Chris Schneider broke off the foothold while he and shelly presson were working the route...CS didn't like SP and proceeded to smash said foothold into powder before it could get glued back on. Foothold helped a ton if you were short (like shelly)...route is actually much better now that the thing is gone...replaces a stance w/ a quik shake and then keep on keeping on until the seventh and then ultimate redpoint satisfaction!!! BAWAHHAHAHAHAHA
I think the number of fingers crammed into the holds are artificially deepening the pockets and comfortizing them...you almost need a fricken Number-being-Served to get on that route...
Check this story out w/ CrazyPolishedNob! I think he was there w/ a group of us when the schnyde lost it...Man, he was a tool!!
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sobo said:Dru said:
i have seen "lots" (3 or 4) of people lead climb 9trad) after climbing for about a week or so, maybe seconding and TRing about 20 routes in all... as long as you are a) confident in your own ability, b) able to walk the talk and actually BUILD anchors not just think you can build them, then you are probably ready to try leading
I was one of those guys about 18 years ago. Had been climbing for about a month when my partner thought it was time for me to lead something. I had Dru's "part a" down pretty well, being a young buck back then. Wasn't quite there with "part b" yet, though I didn't know that just then.
It was a 5.9 at Bridge Buttress in the New River Gorge in WV. It was also my partner's "keen" idea to sell me on the climb as a 5.6, me not yet able to look at it and be able to tell the difference. It's called "sandbagging", and watch out for it, A-gal. As has been said here before, go with someone you trust first.
It cost me two - TWO! - 30-footers, back to back,
because I had overclimbed my last piece on a layback and futzed around too long on one arm trying to build an anchor with the other one. Not once, but twice! So spend some time with a rack of gear making placements. I walked around campus for two weeks placing gear in any crack I could find between classes. It helped tremendously when I returned and climbed the route cleanly.Luckily I was not hurt in the falls because they were airballs, but the sudden stop DID hurt. Learn how to fall as well.
'nuff said.
...sobo
Ha!! I know the route i bet...is it that Layback thing called, "Layback"?? Man, that thing was/is a slippery mofo...
What did you think of angel's arete??? Man, that thing was classic...soloed that as an 18 year-old...stupidest thing i had done yet!
GAWD I miss the new!!!
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Hey...remember when trask was the chickenf'er??
Trask, you raise chickens???????????
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Tim,
You on for Thursday w/ Frank and Ropegun????
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cracked said:
Don't you put a HELL of a lot more force on a biner during a fall? Would you stop using a biner because you fell on it?
Um...yeah, total force is bigger, total point loading is not bigger...
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Its usually found in the front of most area guidebooks, that a party willing to lead or that is actively working for a redpoint has priority over gang-toprope priority. Also, gang-toproping some rock types actually polishes the rock...some guidebooks even ask that you don't gang top rope...guidebooks are not the law, however
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I think lead attempts always have priority...might not be worth the battle if, say, the guy weighs 250...
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fucking weather sux!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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NEWSTIPS said:
Well, we had some positive response from the climbing community on the story KING 5 did last week on the car breakins at trailheads...so we're looking for other concerns of the climbing community to address.
What are some other issues that the climbing community would like to see on the news?
How about a report on Bob Clarke's upcoming 3 peaks in 3 days for a cancer patient?
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Dru said:
chucK would you have felt any different if instead of "a middle aged etc." specialEd had written "a wicked witch?" cause everyone knows that wicked, child eating witches do not exist right
so it wouldf have been more obviously, a joke situation, and not a potential threat to your child, you had to deal with.FWIW when I read it I thought "specialEd gonna get himself banned just like Polish Bob"
You are right...i would have felt different w/ those substitutions...that is a fairytale, child kidnappings are real as is molestation and murder...its not funny to anyone who is a parent.
I can't even let my kid outside w/o me being present, i'm so freaked...and it seemed like it was making the news once a week for a while this summer and that was the REPORTED shiznet...I swear i'd flip if he told that to me in my presence; having said that, I think he probably just doesn't realize what a nerve he stepped on...
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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:RobBob said:
I have received a pm from Marg Schott, who wants to register her outrage at the joke subject matter on cc.com.
Also, officials representing the Lezbulldagga community want us to know that they are offended by the content and language of this website.
It's true, the fucking subject matter on this piece of shit website is totally ass-fucked! It would offend the fuck out of a fucking sailor, for fuck's sake! Fuckin' clean up the offensive bullshit and lay off the insensitive humor or get the fuck out, you shitbricks!
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Gordonb said:
I have a 14 yo daughter and 10 yo son. They both are climbing 10a on TR. I have not gotten them leading yet. We are going to Disneyland then J-tree for spring break and I thing they are more excited to climb at j-tree than ride the rides and Disneyland. Between the strength to weight ratio and their flexibility they can really kick ass. We signed each of them up for a technique class at VW and their climbing improved easily one whole grade.
If you really want them to get crankin', put them on the Vertical teams...some of those kids PULL DOWN HARD!!
Regarding Muffy's statement: Full rig is the way to go on smaller folks...they don't have hips and are top heavy...
My 3 1/2 year old is smithing it this weekend!!
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specialed said:
Sorry about the pedophile joke. I had totally forgotten that the Joke Police were patrolling today. My bad. Let's see if I can remember the rules (for future consideration, of course):
1. jokes about penguins eating cum are O.K.
2. jokes about woman being treated as slaves are not only OK but encouraged
3. Jokes about ass sex, urinating in one's anus, and the like are similiarly encouraged
4. Links to games involving one hunting and killing homosexuals with a shotgun is OK
5. Whole threads espousing the glory of hate is defenitly OK
6. However, any references to pedophilia, regardless of how satirical or jestfull they are intended, are definetly NOT NOT allowed.
Good. I'm glad we have established these bright line rules. I feel much safer now that I know the joke police are out there protecting the sensitive feelings of those like Chuck. The last thing I would ever want to do would be to make the lad feel uncomfortable. Cheers!
I'd have to say that all of the above are borderline shitty...but kids? Do you even see the humor in it? WTF is the matter with you if you do?? You have kids? You think its funny? If you do, FUCK YOU...
The other issue is most of the "victims" on your list have at least a fighting chance of defending themselves...kids don't, they are dependent on adults entirely...
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Dru said:
It was Canadian troops what did it... but we were still part of the Empire then. so your question does have some merit but I blame it on your American education system (what is it, 77th best in the world, behind powerhouses like Phillipines, Poland, Mongolia...)
ahhh, you canucks are just pissed you're still territory status and congress won't approve you as our 51st state!!!
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ScottP said:Dr_Flash_Amazing said:
Ah, but as we know from countless other cc.com joke flubs, it doesn't matter if your intentions are good or if you meant it or not anything else. What matters is that you posted it, you're a heartless, insensitive fuckup, and you're gonna get crucified for it, because this is the internet and that's how it works. That's what matters. Has anyone seen the 16-penny nails?
I fully agree with chucK. Nothing funny about it. My vision of the kid was my 4 year old son.
I challenge any of you who can't see chucK's point to stand up on a crowded bus and tell that joke for all riders to hear.
I doubt any of you have the guts to do it.
You're pretty much doing just that when you post such shit on a site like this.
I'm w/ scottp and chuck on this...leave kids outta it...Just try explaining that one if it got overheard...and its not even funny to start w/...sick whack-shit...no humor at all, and no fricken' morale behind it either...other than sickos oughta get life sentences...
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mtn_mouse said:
I need a new 11mm rope. I like the idea of the longer 60 meter rope (almost 200'). Any comments out there, do you like the longer ropes, or should I stick with the 50m standard.
If you don't mind luggin' it, a 70m is the way to go...The first 20 feet always gets banged up the worst, you just chop that and you'll still have a 60m+ rope...plus, it alleviates a lot of concerns about getting dropped while being lowered...
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allison said:
That *is* funny Iain, a law that prohibits being a dumbass!
O fucking great...I'm going to jail!!
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specialed said:sexual_chocolate said:specialed said:
1. Look at feet, not hands
2. Keep heels down
3. Keep knee over foothold
4. keep hips balanced between feet
5. Mileage
Hmmm, I don't know about this advice.
1. I suppose you mean look at feet when placing them?
2. I think there might be too much variability to make such a generalization. My toe/heel plane tends to be perpendicular to higher when climbing.... Also, pointing the toe will often be necessary when makign a reach. And if the heel drops too much, your foot-to-rock contact strength will diminish. I'd say perpendicular or higher.
3. Often true, when driving off of that foot. But again, so much variation. Often you'll want the knee past the foot for maximal drive and for getting all weight on that foot, especially on high-steps.
4. maybe on slab to vert? While on both feet?
5. absolutely.
But try it all, and see where it takes you.
Sex chococolate: Stupid fuck. Of course this is a generalization! Its just good primary technique to start with. Its not like I made it up, its technique advice I've taken from climbers who climb a hell of a lot stronger than you or me. Dumb ass.
He just offered slightly different opinions...sheesh...lighten up
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fleblebleb said:
Scenario went like this:
Idiot guy hits on girl and convinces to go climbing.
Girl has no idea what she is in for, just trusts the "expert".
Expert makes idiotic mistake - there is no way to interpret rope on webbing for top-roping as anything other than dangerous negligence.
Girl falls, suffers life-changing injury, gets no damages and is stuck with the medical bills. No wonder she sued.
The thing is that in this case the partnership wasn't for real. When two people that know what they're doing climb together they're both implicitly acknowledging that error on behalf of one person can lead to death or injury for either or both.
Simple enough mistake trusting the guy...Who's mistake though? HERS...so the guy is an idiot, so what?? She trusted him, he didn't make her do anything...Let's face it, climbing is inherently an activity that has stacks of potential energy to really fuck your shit up if things go wrong...totally sux for her, but still her responsibility...You will not convince me otherwise.
I don't climb with anyone w/o doing an "assesment"...and i hope new partners do the same thing w/ me...its MY bizness and MY ass...
The only climbing scenario that i could see, is a guide-client or school-student relationship. Then you are contracting for a certain skill set, judgement, and care.
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allison said:
Similarly, I believe that there are certain circumstances under which a climbing partner might be charged.
You can't be serious???? A climbing partner? Whatever happened to making an assesment of the person you're climbing w/? Whatever happened to personal accountability? That is why this place is soooo fricken litigatious (spelling) and why insurance is sooo damn high...
The best thing about climbing is its you and someone you trust to everything to cover your own ass and not being beholden to some goddamned rule...otherwise, what's the point of an adventure?????? It wouldn't really be one w/o some judgement of risk vs. payoff...you choose the risk (ie, clip bolts, minimal...or solo, maximum) and the payoff is determined by you...
This is not a highway system where you have mass folks doing it (at least not yet)...
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sexual_chocolate said:RuMR said:
Have you considered actually training on the climb? Like running laps on sections of it until failure? Takes a lot of time, cuz you have to actually go to the cliff, but you have to admit it'll help to suss the route...
I'm going to try to put down a couple of my nemeses
out there...starting to suck weight...wanna drop about 10 to 15 lbs...So if you drop 10 to 15, what'll your body fat precentage be? Just curious....
That's a good point...I can usually tell if i go to low, cuz my benching falls off--> time to gain weight...
This weight is coming off matter of factly...its not cuz of diet...wife wants to run a marathon, so I'm joining her for the long runs...just have to watch the knees
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Dru said:
lose weight, go mountaineering
after the "ihimaT" trip my love handles went from being slopers to crimpers... 12 hour day on one
and one chocolate bar does it to ya. Yah, but you lose "haul" muscles in your back and forearms...not the kinda weight I want to lose...
Cloudveil Ice Flow gloves
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Dr. K ice climbs in scuba gloves...don't know how they'd work for ice since i don't climb ice, but i do dive around here and they work well under Puget Sound...dexterity is decent also...