RuMR

FenceShitter... Just reach over the roof, instead of climbing under it, dumbass...you can't climb anyway, you're too tall!!!! HAHAHAHAHA

OH Yeah!! You know what cracks me up?? When a tall person says it all comes out in the wash... I've never heard someone say "Ohhhh if i was only a couple of inches SHORTER!"....hahahahaha Lynn Hill and Scott Franklin are my climbing heros...man, they just figure out how to get their short asses around stuff like nobody's business...

Ahhhh...its been a loooooooong time since i threw a good wobbler...a very long time... Those wobbler's usually came right after i fell off of something that i'd literally given everything i had on, over the course of several seasons...things that i specifically trained for, then drive 6 hours for a single day of climbing then got beat down on...In a single definition, toooo hard for my suck-self... Don't climb that way anymore...just don't have the emotional mojo/energy/time to really focus on that stuff now...soooo, if it doesn't go down in two or three tries I MOVE on...more 'bout getting out w/ buddies and just having a great time ...can't wait till my sons are ramped up on it...we'll see if they dig it...

Second rate country...

That's why its called "Pre" ms...

i clicked that fuckin link and quickly experienced mego. couldnt read the whole thing. its all so much navel gazing stained further brown by nationalism. Nationalism? WTF are you talking about?? The guy that wrote it is ITALIAN and is talking up the American approach? That's your definition of Nationalism???? It had German, Spanish, italian and american climbers and routes...so, exactly what was nationalistic about it?? No comment on navel gazing...not as much fun as grazing... TAh TAh

even if 99.9% of us will never get there...its still interesting, particularly the comments about the "American" approach to top level climbing... Check this...

How the hell can you tell which goat is stupid?

big tip on sizing shoes (boreal, sportiva, and 5.10)...the 1/2 size increment w/in a band is the SAME Length as the whole size, but the volume is reduced. ie. a 5.5 size is the same length as a 5, but a larger volume. a 6 is actually a longer shoe... Yeah but I went from a US 8 to a 7.5 so there was definitely a little toe jamming. THAT WAS MY POINT: the LENGTH of the shoe shortened since you stepped from an 8 bracket to a 7.5 bracket...

Yeah no doubt... He must not have had his morning cup o' joe yet...

Hey Fern... you are right about the topic...but these were on the "not-yet" list to do at one time and definitely provided me w/ some memories... Routes can sometimes get a mythical nature for a person and get soooo built up in that person's mind that its an enormous deal for them personally when they send... My current one is the first pitch of east face (not the whole pitch, just the first part to the purple)on the monkey...man, i wanna send that thing, but i'm intimidated for some reason...takes good gear, from what i understand, but man, i always find some lameo excuse to NOT walk back there and try it... Too many routes at Eldo to name...

I tried to do the upper pitch onsight back in 1994...nobody told me to exit stage left when the climbing deadended...I pushed about 4 moves straight up...got stuck, sat there chicken-winging saying something to the effect of "Oh shit, shit shit shit, not good, shit shit"...tried reversing...too pumped, tried going back up then it became "uhhhhhhh, this is not good...this is not good, fuckfuckfuckfuckfuuuuuuuuck" total meltdown,...i knew i was gonna peel for probably 3 or 4 minutes before it happened...that is the woooooorst feeling...i pulled my 108lb wife to the first bolt where she banged up her hand pretty good...I personally was so gripped that i gritted my teeth hard enough to break two molars (it wasn't the fall) before i came off...man, in retrospect that was hilarious and the fall was clean.... Took 6 more years to go back and send that sucka!!! Man, that felt good...i didn't rehearse, got in the mode and sent...

yeah no doubt...i'm a biiiiiiiiiig chicken shit!!! I'll bet you guys were rolling in the dirt laughing! I was squeezing that granite so hard i'd bet juice was coming out of it (or my fingers)....hahahahahaha gooood times... We need to get out, Tim!!!

hahaha...actually i was talking about going over the roof...Darryl had a stupid statement in his book that its .11b unless you're short then its .11d!! HAHAHAHA...head screw...

Full sagitarius or the short version? Took a pep talk from TimL and company to psyche myself up to pop over the roof, but it wasn't too bad...hahahaha the beauty of peer pressure...

big tip on sizing shoes (boreal, sportiva, and 5.10)...the 1/2 size increment w/in a band is the SAME Length as the whole size, but the volume is reduced. ie. a 5.5 size is the same length as a 5, but a larger volume. a 6 is actually a longer shoe...

Hey you two! Take the caps off...its hurting my ears!!!!! Signed, Fat old short guy... PS: I hate work...

FAT PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS THE BEST!!! HOW WAS YOS?? ahhh dude...you had to bring that stinking place up, didn't you?? FUCK i don't want to be here, work sux, its almost like i didn't even leave here...i want to go back to yosemite so bad it hurts ... It was getting hot though...and squamish is whispering... I'll be up there for Father's day weekend w/ little Drew...not sure how much climbing I'll get in, but Drew'll have a blast camping...

A trick i've used a couple of times (last was on P.A . at Index, score one green Jr. Camalot that some tool got stuck) is to flip the cam INTO the crack, w/ triggers going into the crack. Then grab the axles w/ your nut tool, clip a sling on it, and yank...the action of yanking it out causes the cams to try and retract instead of camming and the worst you have to deal with is friction between metal and rock...takes some finagling to flip it, and you have to line up your "track" line, but then it works like a charm....

Good read...who knows if it would've worked...

You should check that vid out called "Hard Grit"...Should be called "Sick, Scary, Crazy, Hard Grit"... Seb Griebe (spelling???) and John Dunne are sick...just sick... And Dunne is a huge mutha to be pushing that stuff at his level...

that's such awesome advice! (i'm going to have to remember that when i'm fed up with my next boyfriend ...) I thought that WAS what you did w/ your last boyfriend!!!! BAWAHAHAHAHA

That's a long walk to the airport buddy...plus, i got your stuff in my car, bitch...

hmmm...my boss is NOT exactly being cool about this...fuggit...he fires me, i don't want to work here anyway...this is bs! Plus, w/ climbing your partners are fucked if you pull out of the trip...

Watcha talkin' 'bout willis??