iain

well there was no one climbing our "route". We had the summit to ourselves, but as we were heading down a band of mazamas was heading up to pick up gear from the snow cave of their compatriots from the previous weekend.

Inspired by the previous cc.com crew heading to the DKHW, a friend and I set out Friday at 3:00am to climb Devil's Kitchen 1c (in oregon high) hoping the recent storm had filled in the bare spots that kept the previous group out. We went over to the gulley and found too much bare rock at the start, so we went back left and made up a route through a bunch of gulleys to gain "1c" again just above the bare spots. Below is a picture shred took on his trip, and I modified it w/o his permission, sorry Pat hope that's okay. The gulley variation we used took really good screws, good solid water ice, but unfortunately this was at constrictions were crap rained down on us as pro was placed and cleaned. Otherwise we used pickets. We had to traverse far right above as the sun was hitting the pinnacles above, knocking down large chunks of rime on the main line. This put us up on a pinnacle looking down on the upper parts of Wy'East. It took a fairly sketchy unprotected traverse on loose cobbles and slush/mud to get down onto snow. The traverse over to this cobbley stuff was on mashed potatoes with some stimulating exposure. The summit was windless and calm. The start of 1c variation would be very nice indeed if iced up. Will head back to try some other variations up there, but we need some more snow and it needs to cool down! Was up on some avalanche training the rest of the weekend and it's like May up there! The frick'n bergschrund is back.

hmm....maybe!

maybe for sandwichs in the park

someone please give that guy the real thing

don't mess

he does it all for the nookie, the nookie. at least he did.

nah they're both bad.....really bad

should be set up nicely. Don't climb to near to that new Wx coming in and you should have great conds. High freezing levels, but can't have everything.

how to order a half-double-decaf-half-caf 101

enough of this

"Big O" patrons

If you live here...

Omega Pacific will hire them.

cool. MP3 rocks. totally expanded what I listen to.

but does it work with the Burton AMP?

those are the weyerhauser stump glades! bring the kneepads

I don't call myself that, it was an ordained title

I cut right to the chase, past 24 hrs. None of this "smokin'" thread bullshit. It's industrial spraying, plain and simple.

I had never seen that page before.

top ten of what?

probably time to insert a little wisdom from Tone Loc: ain't no playin with a man. this is the 80's and I'm out with the ladies.

you love the brown, DFA?

I think I would get the newer Voile 3pin hardwires if I got some tele bindings though. heard good things about those. Tex, enjoy the posthole. Only 40 calories per step, quite a bargain.