thanks, I did a search on rec.climbing for Harlan quarry and came up with this pretty amusing response under the thread "The 5 Worst Crags"
(From Kevin Pogue (pogue@whitman.edu))
I tend to agree with Brian in SLC that any day climbing outside anywhere
is better than doing most anything else. I find the concept of a "worst
crag" a hard thing to nail down. For example. When I was in grad school
in Corvallis we were desperate to find some rock to climb close to town.
The alternative was to drive 3.5 hours to Smith or head to Eugene and
hang out with the posers at Skinners Butte. One day we blundered onto a
100 ft. high quarry wall in the coast range near the small town of
Harlan. The rock is a mixture of graywacke, a type of "dirty" sandstone
and siltstone, and water seeped out in many places along the bedding
planes. The rock is actually quite incompetent and nowhere forms natural
cliffs. The water oozing down to the base of the cliff waters a lush
growth of poison oak and blackberries with canes up to 2 inches in
diameter. The hillside above the quarry wall is very steep so that soil
is constantly creeping to the edge of the cliff, promoting a constant
rain of dirt and small rocks that quickly cover even the tiniest of
ledges. Despite all of these delightful characteristics we resolved to
"develop" our newfound "crag". This was about 1987 and no one we knew
owned a hammer drill so we rented one and a generator and jugged up
fixed lines hauling an extension cord behind us. We managed to bolt
about 4 lines. Some of the best holds on our routes consisted of 3 inch
diameter drill holes left over from the quarry operation. Every handhold
and foothold (and probably bolt for that matter) was suspect and apt to
aburptly detach itself from the cliff at any moment. Despite all of
this, I spent 6 or 7 days climbing there and really enjoyed it. Of
course, it only had to be an improvement over sitting at a desk writing
a thesis. Eventually the area even made it into the back of the
Portland Area Rock Climbs Guidebook. I'd love to see the look on
someone's face after they drove 2.5 hours from Portland to climb there!
From other folk's descriptions it sounds like the authors of the "5
worst crags" article were picking on manufactured areas. They should
have included Leslie Gulch, a travesty where EVERY single hold is a
drilled pocket! Of course, quarries like the one described above are
entirely manufactured, so I would like to nominate the Harlan Quarry as
my "worst crag" even though climbing there still beats sitting here and
typing this!
-=> kevin