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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. You might be a Washington gaper if . . .

    ..which brings up why I like this site. I can talk to people who obviously have far more experience than I and people who obviously have far less experience than I, yet the playing field is leveled. Except when someone says something flat-out stupid.
  2. Daisy Chains - Yea ... or Nay?

    If you're really worrying about your rope ripping in half at the clove hitches you've got some big problems.
  3. Belaying with 8

    ...and the 8 does put twists in on rap...if you have multiple 8's going down a line it pays to have an ATC (or something similar) go down last to deal with the carnage.
  4. Belaying with 8

    I've got nothing against the 8, I just find it too heavy.
  5. Daisy Chains - Yea ... or Nay?

    If you're going to start comparing strengths it helps to keep to one system of measurement. I recommend kN.
  6. Annoying Auto Sigs

    Those stupid animated sigs.
  7. just heard on the slopes.....

    You must know those guys at Mt. Hood Meadows on Heather Chair who dump snow off on the lift line at Shooting Star.
  8. Fav. Hood Route

    Agreed. The Sandy HW feels like you are briefly passing through a whole other world and you are the only one in it. I like the sharp contrast between being alone high on the sandy to the bustle of the south side on descent. I too, need to get out on the north side more. I'll definitely be heading up Cathedral later this summer from C. Cap. Tried to do the dirt scramble later in the fall from McNeil Point last year...don't bother.
  9. Nat'l Fee Demo Rally - Portland

    From Off-Piste: There will be a nationwide Fee Demo Opposition Day on Saturday, June 15. In Portland, you can make your voice heard at Terry Shrunk Plaza (SW 3rd and Madison) at 11:00am. There will be speakers, music, and more information on how you can make a difference in ending the "pay to play" access to our federal lands. -Iain
  10. just heard on the slopes.....

    As a patroller mentioned to me on the chairlift ride after witnessing a similar friendly encounter: "Strap on a board, strap on an attitude." I tried to use the word gaper the other day and was only greeted with blank stares.
  11. climbing, anyone?

    I suspect avatar fishing.
  12. Daisy Chains - Yea ... or Nay?

    I really don't see anything wrong with using clove hitches on your anchors. I'd use them over a daisychain (however you would use that) anytime. As for the relative slip rating, that will be highly variable. As for using a daisychain as a screamer? No thanks.
  13. You might be a Washington gaper if . . .

    Reminds me of a time I was snoozing in the Mt. Hood climber's register when I heard a horrible scraping sound. I looked up with a "What the hell..?" and saw a lady coming in wearing the spikes from her car! Makes me wonder if the Mt. Hood brewpub has crampon scratches on its floor. so to add (OR gapers)... ...if you've ever been on a rope team within 100 meters of Timberline Lodge. ...if you've ever self-arrested to avoid falling into the parking lot.
  14. Peoples' animosity to friendly safety advice when climbing is amazing sometimes. Yes, people can come across as nosey assholes when they give out advice, and you have to demonstrate some tact. If you see someone in another party tied in incorrectly or something, it is unfortunate that you have to debate whether you should point it out to them or not, whether the tongue-lashing is worth it or if they will say "cool, thanks a lot for looking out for us". Being a bit of a recluse, I don't like talking to anyone while climbing, nevermind someone telling me what to do. But even if the advice is from some gaper loudmouth mazama I grit my teeth, smile, and say cheers mate, I'll keep it in mind.
  15. Daisy Chains - Yea ... or Nay?

    Heard talk of daisies being used as belay anchors? Most companies design them simply to hold body weight (though they can clearly hold much more based on break strength, they bar-tack for body weight on those loops). Has someone heard otherwise?
  16. weather's supposed to be shatty. take your rain slicker.
  17. unroped on a glacier?

    Mechanical advantage really isn't the issue, as some have pointed out, you can frequently haul directly. Whether you've only got a C w/ biners or you have a winch out there, it's the lip that matters, and the surface on which you are pulling.
  18. You might be a Washington gaper if . . .

    quote: Originally posted by erik:
  19. unroped on a glacier?

  20. You might be a Washington gaper if . . .

    You really should crank out some cc.com stickers. I suggest: "RURP hates me." "Take your freshiez and shove it." "I've seen Steamer's feces." "Gaper"
  21. unroped on a glacier?

    Let's chill out dudes. AAI's better than RMI or Mounties is it not?
  22. You might be a Washington gaper if . . .

    quote: Originally posted by Dru: you get hoome from a climbing trip Sunday at 9:30 and your trip report is posted by 10:30. you put 1 hour into your trip reports.
  23. You might be a Washington gaper if . . .

    ...if you wear those funny sunglasses that turn everything yellow but don't appear to do anything except certify you as a hipster.
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