HeadSpace

sweat deal, thanx.........

spys like us

anyone have any current beta on this climb; old bolts?, pro to 4"?, pitch 4 complete or not? not interested in grade difficulty. just compiling tick list notes, thanx........

hey crackbolter, I really think you've lost it.

i tr'd it while Tony had a rope on it. should you come off the crux, the only thing keeping you off the deck is a #1tcu, the rest of the gear is absolute crap IMO. a mandatory onsight, should someone consider it. Congrats to T for headpointing it.

planning on purchasing a couple in the larger sizes. i'm interested in first hand knowledge; placing, removal, falls taken on them, any tricks in riggin them. thanks.

something entirely different eh? clip..clip.clip.....

this van needs to go. has alpine cd player with 2ways in front and 6x9 speakers in back. $450 and a 6pack of stout. come on all you seattle dirt bags, it WILL make it as far as Index and back!

87 MITZUBISHI VAN. $650.00 cash. rebuilt motor with 20k on it. does burn oil. add about a quart every fill up. good tires and brakes. couple of small dents. white ext. with brown int. new tabs. sold in "as is" condition. pm or email me. be kind.....

mmmh, yummy, do you like

that flake has tighted up some since the earthquake, just yard on it.

5.11 NO ROPE OR HARNESS INDEX OR RATTLETALE WHAT THE FUCK?

here's my two cent's that i'm sure nobody will like. step one: drill 5/16" holes, make them shallow and really low to the ground, insert 5/16" r.b.'s and equalize. better yet, just drive some rebar into the dirt and tie off. or even better, just free solo well below your limit, wear a walkman and rock out to TOOL while climbing. Fuck, just grab a partner or consume copious amounts ofbefore setting off.

pierre's polaris in kenmore, wa. has new tracker avy beacons for $260.00. thought it was a good deal, just passing it on. 425-488-8600. wasn't there looking at beacon's though, vroom-vrooom!!!!!

one thing that is certain, is there are no "ordinary moments" while climbing, no matter what the specific disipline.

try "perscription for nutritional healing" kind of a all encompassing reference guide.

frank'ly, i enjoyed it with the bolts. my first flash of a sport route at index. what's up with the bolted hand crack on angorro grotto?(circa three years ago)

ushba basic ascender. no teeth to ding your rope, cams like a grigri. you can also down climb with it, with relative ease. i paid $70 canadain from onsight in squam. i think nelson sells them as well.

you're actually going to get a job, are you kidding? come on, move to bellingham, what the hell? oh, by the way how was canmore?

the heading "RETRO" was in reference to retro-bolting. if mitch, whom i do not know, chose to post uner this thread, i'd welcome his comments as much as anyone else's. let me say that the o.w. had seen a previous ascent, there was a pin at the top of it and i clipped it, at that point "purgatory" goes left. micth's line goes up and right at the pin if i'm not mistaken. i wasn't trying to fan any flames around here. this was a topic i had brought up with some friends this season. just looking for a broader opinion base and i sure did get one. all things being said, i'll let the chips fall where they may. the gear worked for me, it will work for someone else. thanks

if the sliders failed you'd take a small whip. i just feel the climb may be out of character with the rest of the area and a bolt would entice peolpe to try it. hey ,i'm baised what can i say?

i would agree, a bolt over a pin would be bomber. the route would likely see more traffic with a bolt in place. anyway it's just a crag climb . thanks for the comments.

the climb is a the pearly gates. viktor's preliminary topos call it "plucking the harp", it's going in the guide book as "purgatory". as far as i know it has only seen 2 ascents including the first. it starts in a o.w. climbs up 20' and traverses left on a finger tip seam taking blue and purple tcu's for 10' or so. you get a .75 cam in after the traverse, pulling the roof is where the sliders go in. i think the gear is good, but how many people carry sliders around anyway? the o.w. through the roof is 10+.

wondering what the going opinion is on adding a bolt to a climb i had cleaned and led on natural gear, said gear being two equalized sliders(red&gold) protecting the crux. any suggestions?