jordop

alpine sport climbing is not nearly as much fun as boulderaiding

Has the States had a revolution yet? What's holdin it up? Cmon, get goin

Current favourite: "In China today, Bill Gates is Britney Spears. In America today, Britney Spears is Britney Spears - and that is our problem." --- Thomas L. Friedman [The World Is Flat: A Brief History of the Twenty-First Century]

Maybe the Merced will take out Camp Curry and all those other fuckin eyesore tourist ghettos. Maybe it'll dredge up the body of this guy I stayed three weeks in the Valley in 99: 1. First day there Gambalie drowned. That night there was a drunken golf cart race in Camp 4 that got a few people thrown in the John Muir Inn 2. Various unsolved beheadings and murders ongoing 3. Glacier Point Apron collapses 45 minutes after we climbed the very route it obliterated 4. When I got home I read in the paper that someone had been arrested for putting cameras in the MENS Camp Curry showers, which I had used most days during my stay

Got rats?

Jesus. Guess you haven't read The Da Vinci Code.

I love how that aspect got three routes last year after it had remained virgin for FIFTY years Too bad it was done in only 7 pitches

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For anyone considering writing a piece for Alpinist, I would like to bring to light a recent experience: I submitted a piece about a month ago and immediately got a reply asking for some minor changes. Which I gladly did. (it is not customary to ask for edits until an offer of acceptance has been made, but the changes seemed minor) Then I was asked to do some more substantial changes, then on a third draft some more sentence-level changes. Then a fourth edit with more big changes. Then I got "Christian likes this, but change these words." Which I did, certain that they wanted the piece. Then today I got: "well, we didn't like your whole approach very much. We won't take it this time but if you want we can still work on it and maybe for the next issue . . ." Don't waste your your goddamned time

The problem with any fermentation is sanitation. Airborne yeasts are much quicker to attenuate/activate than any dehydrated yeast you are going to add -- especially true with any fruit, which is basically a pile of natural yeast. Actually, it takes about a year for anything made with honey or fruit to really settle out and not taste green. On the other hand, a standard ale with ~4% alc can be quite drinkable in 3-4 weeks

10lbs honey/5 gallons water gives about 9% alcohol. I have never seen mead for sale in Canuckmenistan. I'll have to pick some up next trip south. Been gettin some sweet booze from Grocery Outlet lately Is there anything that place AINT good for

Never fear, a new batch is on the way! Cooked it up on an a combo XGK/Whisperlite this morning Come summer there'll be mead flowin in WA Pass like it's fuckin Valhalla or somethin

Yeah but mead is GOOD. Any you don't go AS blind as Cisco You can make plonk out of any refined sugar. When I was 15: "So, I can't buy booze from the liquor store, but I can buy malt extract and yeast from the grocery store." "Yeah, but we can just get so-and-so's brother to buy booze for us." "Fuck off, this is more fun."

How to make MEAD 10 lbs honey Big pot plastic food bin with a fermentation lock (about $10 altogether) wine yeast Boil honey and water in a big pot. Cool. Pour into bucket. Add yeast. Affix lid. Transfer after two weeks to another bucket. Add some sugar and put it into bottles. Age for a few months and THEN So it costs about $50 and you get about 70 bottles of ~12% alc stuff I don't know why no brewing company sells mead these days It's frickin awesome, after a few months of aging it takes like a fine champagne. Way cheaper and easier than making beer from scratch too I was cleaning out my basement last month and found a bottle from a batch I had made ten years ago in university

Actually, the rock in that area is fantastic. You just have to get to tree line first

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Is the peak on the left what you are thinking of bychance Bill?

Frickin laserbeams!

Only C4 Stealth works on nearsightedness

Bill I think you saw Urquhart

You would be wise to hold off: from CASBC: "The voluntary peregrine falcon nesting closure at the Chief is usually from March 15 th – July 31 st . The falcons normally nest somewhere in the Dihedrals area. The 2004 closures included Clean Corner, Sports Illustrated, Cloudburst, Sea of Tranquillity, Getting Down in the Brown, Warriors of the Wasteland, Western Dihedral (4 th pitch & above), Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Duck, Illusion, Planet Caravan, and Millenium Falcon . Open climbs included Arrowroute, Cleaning the Brain, Dead End Dihedral, Time Passages, Black Dyke, Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3 rd pitch), Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Dyke, and Freeway. The 2005 closures will likely be similar – please comply with this until further notice."

I hear Cascades Volcano Syndrome will be listed in the new DSM-IV

The Name, Tomas Transtromer I got sleepy while driving and pulled in under a tree at the side of the road. Rolled up in the back seat and went to sleep. How long? Hours. Darkness had come. All of a sudden I was awake, and I didn't know who I was. I'm fully conscious, but that doesn't help. Where am I? WHO am I? I am something that has just woken up in a back seat, throwing itself around in panic like a cat in a gunnysack. Who am I? After a long while my life comes back to me. My name comes to me like an angel. Outside the castle walls there is a trumpet blast (as in the Leonora Overture) and the footsteps that will save me come quickly down the long staircase. It's me coming! It's me! But it is impossible to forget the fifteen-second battle in the hell of nothingness, a few feet from a major highway where the cars slip past with their lights dimmed.

Ex Voto, Brodsky Preparation, Milosz I'm working on the World, Szymborska And anything else from the dismal side of the Iron Curtain