
mr.radon
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Everything posted by mr.radon
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I've done all but six. If I had to do two, do Capitol and North Maroon. No 14'er in CO is technical. Only six are Grade 4.
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"I did say might be better to take them off." I've taken them off and then back on again. And in conditions where you just can't arrest (ice) UNROPE so one member doesn't drag everyone down with them. I have a nice set of anti-ballers that work well.
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When you get to Muir or Schurman, take time out to rope up and practice. There are spots within easy reach to get comfortable as a rope team. Remember on the way down: 1) If the crampones are always balling up, you might be better off without them. 2) Put the weakest member in the front the strongest in the back. You can see the weakest fall and get into an arrest position.
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Trip: Yosemite Valley - Reed's Direct - Nutcracker a few others... Date: 6/4/2008 Trip Report: To start off this was my Bachelor Party... RumR, his son, J-dog and a few others made it down to Yosemite with me. My first trip to the valley. I was a little intimidated by J-dog's comments when he came back after his first trip to the valley many years ago. Something about hard ass ratings. However, he had not had a chance to polish his jamming skills at Indian Creek before hand. Reflection: Now that I have had a time to reflect on the trip I have decided that I might just want to become a waiter in one of the parks eating establishments and climb till I'm no longer able to climb, then sit on a lawn chair with a telescope and watch others from dawn to dusk, then be buried within view of Half Dome. Weather: A whole lot nicer then Seattle. Sweet mid 80's, plenty of sun. The set up: RumR takes me to Church Bowl. Climb Bishop's Terrace 5.8 and I'm surprised. It's a 5.8. Climb several other routes, climbs in this area are pretty easy. I mention to RumR that I thought the valley would smack me down hard. The smack down; Reed's Direct: A few comments on Reed's Direct, 5.9 my ass... I knew I was in trouble when RumR started bitching half way up... Kudos to the sweet hotty that joined me on the belay ledge (start of 2nd pitch) to give me motivation not to embarrass myself; which I did. But only because RumR placed a yellow cam way too deep. I finally gave up and hung to pry the little F'er out. Generator Crack: 5.10c my ass! Left leg bruised, left arm shredded, left hand shredded, left shoulder bruised, EGO bruised. Total progress measured in inches. Once again 5.10c my ass! Did I mention the valley rocks? Nutcracker: Give this route some thought if you are a party of three with a 55.8M rope and a 60M rope. Last two pitches I'd like to forget about. Other then that, what a sweet route. Highly recommended. Love the gear belays. Wish I had NOT brought the black climbing shoes, as my toes fried in the sun. Did I mention that climbing with a party of three there was plenty of time to get the toes fried? Ah, but this allowed more time to take in the awesome vista offered higher up the route while prying off hot climbing shoes with a QD and sling so as not to loose a shoe way off the deck. First time I had the pleasure to wiggle my toes on slick granite on a hanging belay. All in all - if you have never been, go to the Valley. WOW... If you have been and are heading back, take me with you... Thanks for the leads RumR & J-dog! Gear Notes: Three racks, many ropes... Approach Notes: Mini van with RumR. He made the mistake of selecting a MEXICAN restaurant in Sacramento before the drive back!
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Climbing in Ecuador I mentioned to a French climbing team that they might want to unrope and belay. The leader told me to STFU. They were all tied in short and needed to down climb a 15' rock band. We had unroped and solo'd he band. I waited to watch the French climbers. The first French climber slipped near the bottom jerking the second climber off the upper ledge, the third climber quickly followed. Now I keep my mouth shut.
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Used to live in Boulder. Try Eldorado Canyon for craging. Around this time of year you will find snow, but all 14'ers are easy to climb any month of the year. Call the park for current info on the Diamond. You should not have a problem. However, bring some snow gear to assist the descent from the Keyhole route or whatever route you decide to take down. The routes probably still have snow. Have an awesome time.
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Women claim it's hard to raise the kids and want more credit then they deserve sometimes. I raised my boy for 4 months old by myself. And no I don't lactate but I can make formula. If I could find the right lady I would not mind being a stay at home dad. I had so much fun raising my kid I'd gladly do it again. It's not that freaking hard. And for all the slacker dads out there that don't do crap at home women should chose better sperm donors.
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RuMR told me today after the slam session at Index he's going to cheat and get lipo-sucktion of that huge fat roll he packed on this winter. I call that cheating. Anyone else going that route?
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Excuse #1 - real for me Since I take care of everything on-line I check the mail about once a month. By then all the junk mail is waiting for me at the post office and I can ditch 99.9% of the bundle. Well I got a Jury notice, but since the date had already passed I ignored it and in the same pile was a letter from the DA asking why I hadn't showed up. I called and explained that I don't check mail every day. He went balistic about my civic duty to check mail. I told him to F-off and talk to my mailman (he's yelled at me about never checking my mail) he'd tell him I'm not making it up. I never heard from the DA again. Excuse #2 - real for my mom She got a notice, she told them she couldn't be on a jury. When asked why, she said she was not a citizen. Sure enough you can't be on a jury if you are not a citizen. Tell them you are not a citizen, you just jumped the Rio Grand last year.
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If you were involved with the rescue: Please PM me with your mailing address and full name. Explain to me why you want the pictures and I'll send a CD with all the pictures/videos and permission to reprint or use the pictures as you wish. I already sent a CD to the Bellingham SAr group. Thanks for all the positive feedback.
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I've taken my dog all over Mount Rainier, and I clean up the mess. My sister is a vet and I got a "seeing eye dog in training" vest. The rangers don't ticket me since they HAVE to let you bring the dog. I talked to Gator about this in a post a few years ago, but if you can't get a vest and your dog isn't as well trained as mine don't do it. But anytime you hike with an animal pickup the waste. I hate getting dog doo out of the skins of my skis... :-(
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Attached is a picture of the helo plucking the helo crew member (I can't believe he gets paid to do this) and litter. My GF gets credit for this picture.
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Went for a day hike today, and watched live a helo rescue of a climber stuck in a crevasse. The word was he fell in around 4PM (solo climber) last night. SAR spent the night with him and this morning around 10AM they pulled him up and out, then helo'ed him out with a Navy Blackhawk helo. Happened about 200 yards up from the rocks. I got ton of pictures of the rescue and a full video of the guy getting pulled up. The helo flew just feet over our heads, wild stuff. SAR reported a suspected broken femur and pelvis. Anyone know what actually happened? Is he going to be okay? Having just gotten over a bad injury myself I wish this dude the best. I had carried my skis up hoping to get a few turns, but it was butt cold and way too icy.
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Well today was a big first. Rumr called me when I was heading down from McClendan's Butte and said to meet him at Exit 38. I got to tope rope two pitches next to the bridge casement. Not a big deal since his 6yr old kid did the route. But it is still my frist rock climbing since I broke the back. WAY COOL...... Hope my doc doesn't kill me when I tell him next week.
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When I was recovering I was told teh body will burn calories like crazy. I was also sleepy, lots of naps. Your body gets a work out healing itself. I have no clue about the soreness unless you are getting up different now then before.
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Anyone know what kind of a snake this is. I walked by, being I have encountered several rattle snakes in the desert I heard the sound but it sounded a little off. Since it came from the left and slightly behind I just hauled ass downtrail, however Jdog was a few steps behind and didn't want to cross right away. He managed to get around but I still say the sound was off. Who knows snakes? I heard of a snake that fakes the sound of a rattler, this one of them? Too bad it was on the hike out not in, always wanted to try snake burgers
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I got the results back from the Beat the Bridge, I ran a 8:37 pace. Way faster then any of my training runs. Yesterday J-Dog and I hiked up to Lake Vivian, right below Prussic Peak from the Snow Creek trailhead. Good day trip for me. Next month I find out if the doc will let me start upper body workouts. If so I might head back to VW and do low height traversing on the boulder walls.
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Hiked it yesterday from Snow Creek. I thought it was easy going and I am recovering from a broken back. Getting around the trees was easy and there is a crew working the trail right now making short work of the downfall. Six climbers hiked in that day. They left several hours before me. I caught up to them at Lake Vivian. Three were going to do the East ridge and the other three the South face? I forget, anyhow the weather was moving in and I doubt they got far. It was raining most of the hike out. Saw a party on the last pitch of Outer Space. Can't wait till the doc clears me for rock climbing. My vore is for Snow Creek Trail.
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Medical costs. Well a few people were asking me what the medical bills have added up to. So far dirredt billing is over $92,000. I get bills every other day still. The insurance so far has gotten about $28K in discounts, I'm out of pocket about $750, including the meds I buy over the counter. My company has short term disability so I received 100% pay while at home for seven weeks. Add that in and you can call me $100K man. Glad I had insurance. For many years I was self employed and a single dad. Glad nothing happened those years. Not like I took it easy or anything.
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I told you I took some med's. They're pretty powerful. you should remember my delusional episodes you spy you..... I might short rope you the last 1,000 feet because thats better then putting up with your whinning, but I'm not hauling any of your gear. It's time I stop babying you...
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Well I'm well on my way to a full recovery. I finished the 8k today without a single break. I don't know what my time was as that was the last thing on my mind as I entered Husky Statium. I set a two goads: 1) Bea the bridge, 2mile in 20 min. 2) Finish without taking a break The first I made with about 4 minutes to spare. The second was a bit harder. It was hot today. I was real sore after this and took somes meds when I got home, passed out for a few hours. Feel much better now. My next test is to head up Rainier with Rumr. I'd love to smoke that punter on the hike in. God knows he hates alpine aproaches.