IceScrewed

The Valley for the first time....lucky you! Forget the heat...try and climb on N facing rock (i.e. Braille Book, NE Corner of Higher Cathedral Spire, E Buttress of Middle Cathedral (yes it's rated 10 something but it's only a few moves and is easily done "freedom free"). And then there's Snake Dike (a nice camp out among the bears but then you can do the climb at sun up and be down at the falls for a dip at the major heat of the day). Other climbs that you'll just have to suck up the heat and do include After Six, Nutcracker, and Royal Arches. Don't forget to write...

While some of these may be 'rated' 5.9 I'd put them on your list: NE Butt Higher Catherdral E Butt El Cap E Butt Middle Catherdral DNB NW Face Half Dome Regular Route Fairview Dome That'll keep ya busy and smilin' Enjoy!

There's a bunch of new packs that I've never tried and was wondering what the current concensus was on the best pack for doing a weekend climb with a carry-over. I've always used about a 3000cu.in. bag...thoughts on makes/models/size (yeah, I know...the models and size is really asking for it).

For the first 17 years, I always wore a helmet. Then I went through male menopause and wore one only when in the mountains (which, during male menopause I avoided, instead preferring fun in the sun rock climbing). The past few years I've worn one at all times climbing, even on days when it was apparent I had left my brains at home. I expect that my helmet obsessions has retruned for good.

The cam part of my rack is now a mix of Camalots, tcus, and Tango cams. The Camalots are there because they work really well (but are spendy) and if I hadn't invested in them before the Tango gear, I'd have more Trango cams (great price performers...true of much of Trango's gear) .

I don't think Icegirl's comment about the Divers Alert Network is at all off base. If you read the DAN rescue policy, you'll see it does not at all specify anything about diving related rescue. At least a couple of my friends who climb for a living (now there's an oxymoron--or was it just moron?) have DAN insurance for potential mountain rescues. The AAC policy, as I recall, limits rescues to a certain altitude, where the DAN policy does not. As for the rest, I've belonged for too long and did not renew this year. I will always buy the ANAM to learn what not to do. That plus my DAN insurance plus my Access Fund membership (an advocacy organization doing something for ALL climbers, whether they're paying or not--who helped reopen Peshastin and are working on Index access as well as improving Frenchman's) gets me a very targeted result that costs less than AAC. I'm sure there's a good reason to belong to the AAC--but I couldn't tell you what it is.

Lucky you. I'll throw in another vote for Petzoldt Ridge on the Grand (could be the best route on the mtn--according to a friend who's guided there for decades) as well as Irene's Arete (one of the best in the range and can be done car-to-car-and-in-the-bar-by-6): a don't miss. You can camp in the Meadows, as suggested, and do lots of climbs (Cloudveil's got a nice face with good technical routes and Irene's is right there) including Petzoldt's. I encountered a bear there a month ago on the trail when we were hiking out. Happily for my partner I was not forced to sacrifice him to the bear--he, in fact, just shooed the bear away (not recommended for grizzlies...but you'll probably never be lucky enough to encounter one). Don't forget to get acclimatized well before doing the Grand...13k's a bitch if you're used to sucking Seattle air. Have fun and come back safe.

If you're driving to SLC, it's worthwhile to break up the drive by detouring to City of Rocks.

Bone--don't go straight on us now! Glad you're still around to spray and thanks for the beta and good wishes.

Well--quite impressive. Never have I seen so many sprayers contribute so much solid beta! Many thanks.

Other than DON'T FALL any other thoughts on the do's and dont's of simulclimbing?

OK, so many years ago I did the W Ridge and ended up bivying on the way down because of the horrendous traffic jams caused from people coming up. I'm planning a trip up a N side route and would appreciate any beta on descending the E side (as described by Nelson). Is Nelson's description pretty accurate? I remember people avoiding this descent because it was considered to have some devious routefinding...any thoughts and personal experience greatly appreciated.

Seems simple. According to the press, all climbers requiring rescue are "experienced"... ergo, if you've been rescued, you are experienced!

Oops! I meant to say I'd expect you're NOT planning on going up Asgard...

True, you don't need more than a self issued trail permit for a one day ascent...just lots of speed! I'd expect you're planning on going up Asgard as (1)the Stuart/Colchuck trail road will be closing shortly due to bridge nonsense and (2)I was up there a couple of weeks ago and the snow is getting thin on the Asgard approach which would cause me to favor the Snow Lake approach...in all a very long day. Sorry I can't help on the chimney question.

Thanks for the input. I should mention that I haven't considered Aces (although my gym shoe is a Boreal velcro shoe that I really like) because I once had a pair and the heel cup ripped apart my feet and cut short a trip to the Valley. I'll definitely check out the Sportiva Focus too.

My Kaukulators are shot and I need to buy a new pair of shoes--fast. I'm heading out to do the Casual Route on the Diamond and typically climb 5.8-5.10 grade III and IVs. My foot is wide. The Ascent looks appealing. Anybody with experience with these? Any alternative favorites? My feet and I thank you.

I use the Natl Geographic TOPO! maps. Very cool. In addition to points already made (1)it will take the course you plot and calulate an elevation profile and distances (2) provide you with GPS waypoints, which for more money you can download to your GPS (yet even more money)...but my GPS was a present and I just enter the coordinates by hand (3)allow you to choose your Datum (I use the UTM instead of lat/lon as it's easier for my small brain) (4)as already mentioned, you can print different scale maps (one detailed and one larger on the reverse side) or using the waterproof/tear resistant paper you can copy the route description on the back and it's all in one place. I wouldn't go back to buying USGS maps unless I absolutely had no choice. btw, having a color printer is the only way to go.

Thanks, I was named after my father...but did you find my missing gear Monsieur Vegetarian?

No, I didn't post this so you could go chasing booty..but in the process if you find my feeble old brain and memory, could you return them both? In any event, I had my helmet, with bivy sack stuffed inside, held down by the lid of my pack on the way out from Prusik to Asgard Pass. Somewhere between there (probably on a short stop on rock) the helmet went it's own way taking the bivy sack for company. When I stopped at the top of the pass I realized that I had lost the helmet/bivy sack along the way. Back tracking didn't help. If you come across these beloved articles, I sure would appreciate their return...and you would earn many karma points (good for redemption at a future unspecified time).

Check out today's Letters to the Editor in the PI...score two for our side (where ever the hell that side may be ) 6/8 PI Letters to the Editor

-Agree: SF Tooth, Chair, Outer Space, N Ridge Stuart, Givler's Crack I'd add: -classic ridge on Sir Donald -E Ridge Bugaboo Spire -NW Face of Higher Cathedral Rock, YVNP -E Face Middle Cathedral Rock, YVNP -E Face El Cap -NW Face Half Dome -After 6, Snake Dike -Yellow Spur (Eldo)

After 25 years of being chased by a rope, I can only say, that in the end it's a stupid and meaningless activity...welcome to the club (and even though we don't collect dues, it's still great that you remain a non-dues paying member). Forever ago I took a 50 footer on a C5 pitch and at the bottom of the stretched rope was about 2 feet from a ledge that I was sure would leave me flattened or crippled, at best. When you fall like that time slows down and you have plenty of time to think about what might happen (although the rope jerk comes way before you expect it). After shaking for 15 minutes I rapped off with my partner. My climbing was quite tentative after that and about a year later, after continuing to flog myself up routes in spite of significant mental discomfort, I stopped climbing for a few years. I'm pleased to report that when I came back to climbing I was at it harder than ever. For what it's worth (and that isn't much), do what feels right. After all, it's only fun if it's fun. Belay Vobiscum

It's been years since I've been up there and am planning a trip to do Prussik in a day late-June (expecting hard packed snow on trail given the current snow pack). I'd appreciate hearing how long it took you to get from the trailhead up to the top of Asgaard...and if you're a tortoise or a hare.