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leejams

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Posts posted by leejams

  1. Matt said:

    Definitely would not have felt comfortable without the crampons as both of us slipped and self arrested on the Stuart Glacier.

     

    Make that 3 of us, as I took a slide as well just after entering the couloir. Felt safe, got sloppy, took a ride to a great landing on boulder below. Good job on that gendarme pitch. Probably the better way as the other was wet slab, after kicking steps through the snow with rock shoes on. bigdrink.gif

  2. [. Yeah, that wet icy section sucks ass. It is no fun in rock shoes. I thought that was the crux of the whole climb when I did it. wazzup.gif

    I would agree with you there ironman tongue.gifBut home free from there and whoever put those pins in that wet crappy slab thumbs_up.gif

  3.  

    What were you up to in there, Lee, that has garnered you the undying admiration of Erik?? hahaha.giffruit.gif

    Ha the only admiration was me watching these 2 hardmen in action. Small pack=fast travel and they had there shit tuned. Good job guys mushsmile.gif

  4. Hooked up with Mike from back east for a 2 day romp up the ridge. Damn cool rte, excellent rock, great weather, in a stunning area!

     

    Guide books tell it all so won't go there. Highlights from me were entering the couloir, just above the bottomless slide the snow gave out and went for the big ride down rapidly. Lucky for me there was a huge boulder above the moat to have a perfect 10 landing.

     

    Spent the night at the bivvy sights above the couloir where the wind roared and the temperature dropped and it must have been -30 (Ooops wrong thread yelrotflmao.gif). Actually it was a bit nippy but what a cool place to spent the night.

     

    Next day we let the weather calm down a bit and warm up so got a bit of a late start but no hurry. We had a great climb and were loving it. Soloed the beginning and then what we thought was the first 5.7 pitch turned out to be like a 5.9 pitch to a dead end and ended up seeing the true rte way below and rapped down to it. Other than that pretty straightforward. We swung leads and Mike ended up with a sweet 5.7 slab finger crack that I tried to talk him out of but NOOoooooo. Anyway, I had some cool leads and did pretty well I think for my first real multipitch alpine climb. I ended up with the first lead after the 75 Ft rapp down from the gendarme across the wet,icy, crap madgo_ron.gif. And this is where we met up with pete and erik and the only climbers on the ridge. Those guys were rocking and passed us up and doing it in 1 day thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif. I was hating my large pack watching those 2. But easily made the summit from there. The roller coaster trip back to the car was freakin long. Erik warned us the trip up to longs pass would suck moon.gif it did. But what a great 2 days!

  5. HA, thats the 3rd time for me humpin up all those switchbacks to that "virgin lake" which was pretty much an ice cube cept for the bug eggs etc...waiting to hatch.

     

    Dude check your pm's I think you got some of my gear from Black. frown.gif

  6. Did kyes peak south rte with Nolan yesterday. First time in the monte crisco area for me and figured might as well climb the highest point to get the lowdown. Typical cascade climb, good trail turns to climbers trail which peters out and find your own way from here suckaa. The summit block was as wierd as I had heard, funky shit. Superb day, partner, and excellent views from the summit. Wise to fill up the jugs at virgin lake!

     

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