nobody

My budy did it last saturday and said it was in. He said the top was not exactly the best and was pretty rotten ice. Nothin epic but not exactly phat. Top roping it could be done but woulnd't be the best thing.

Mountain Climbers Vulnerable to Subclinical Lung Disorder February 06, 2002 Three out of four recreational climbers could be at risk of a mild form of the lung disorder called high altitude pulmonary edema, researchers conclude. High altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) is characterized by increased pulmonary artery pressure which leads to accumulation of fluid in the lungs. Severe HAPE is rare, occurring in 2-5% of cases, and is thought to only affect people with a specific genetic predisposition. Writing in The Lancet, George Cremona from St. Raffaele University, Milan, and colleagues from Italy and San Diego, U.S.A., proposed that subclinical HAPE is far more frequent than suspected during even modest climbs of average effort. They assessed 262 climbers of Monte Rosa (a 4559-meter mountain on the Swiss-Italian border) before ascent and about 24 hours later on the summit 1 hour after arrival. Only one climber was evacuated for HAPE, but 40 (15%) climbers had evidence of lung-function deterioration (chest rales or interstitial edema [swelling] on radiograph after ascent). Of 37 of these climbers, 34 (92%) showed increased closing volume (the volume of air remaining in the lungs as the narrow airways begin to close after a full expiration; it is increased with edema and is therefore used as a measure of subclinical HAPE). Of the 197 climbers without clinical evidence of edema, 146 (74%) had an increase in closing volume - and therefore evidence of subclinical HAPE - at altitude. Cremona comments, "If we assume that an increased closing volume at altitude indicates increased pulmonary extravascular fluid, our data suggest that three of every four healthy, recreational climbers have mild subclinical HAPE shortly after a modest climb." In an accompanying commentary, Larry Sonna from the U.S. Army Research Institute of Environmental Medicine, concludes, "Methods suitable for use on site to better identify individuals at risk of altitude illness, and to identify early those who become ill, are under investigation. Unfortunately, other than a history of recurrent HAPE, there is yet no widely applicable clinical method to tell precisely who will develop clinically significant pulmonary edema at altitude. In view of the increasing popularity of recreational activities at altitudes capable of producing HAPE, better markers for susceptibility to this disorder are needed." This article was prepared by Health & Medicine Week editors from staff and other reports.

A pitch is generally considered to be a rope length....but that really varies. The standard rock climbing rope is still 50 meters, though many are using 60 meters. If you need to rap a full pitch (as you say 60 meters) you would need to two ropes or do two raps. That is why many apline climbers use a two ropes system. Two ropes are very common for ice climbing. Hope that answers your question. [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: nobody ]

has anyone actually been on Spray Creek Falls recently? Looking for general route info and current conditions if known. Thanks.....

Smith Rock = low avi danger, very low.

MSRP is 699.95 = NFW. Well so much for the second look. At that price I think I would buy a bibler. Though I am still curous as to what the tents are like: design, build, etc.

I surfed through briefly. This one caught my eye. http://www.msrcorp.com/tents/fusion2.asp at 5lbs for a four season two man it warrants a closer look. Anybody use one of these? How is the overall construction? Fit and finish?

Actually I am pretty sure it was an earlier MM expedition. I think it was 92 or 93 and I think it was with other groups as well? It was one of the first ones to do so (if not the first). But, 1996 may have been a clean up trip as well? The earlier clean up trip was one of the catalysts to change the trash situtation on the mountain. I understand it has been very successful up to Camp IV. My uncle and friends trekked in to EBC and said it was very clean. They were surprised. Apparently, because of these early efforts, expeditions now have to mark and cataloge each peice of equipment (right down to each biner) and account for it before leaving, or pay a fine. That is what I heard from a guy that helped pack out an everest expedition a couple of years ago.

freeclimb9 I am pretty sure that the old Mixed Master had a frame, I think one or two simple stays, and the Ice Pack does not. It has a foam pad (removable). I am not positive of this, but my buddy has the old Mixed Master and I was thinking about buying one right when the new Ice Pack came out. I remember comparing his to the new one and liked the idea of a light frame. Don't rely on this, check it out further. My buddy loves his mixed master. Good luck

freeclimb9, regarding the "micro cracks" from dropped gear. I have heard this one over and over and over, yet I have never seen anything to actually support this. Do you know of any articles or other sources of info that discuss this? I am curious. Years ago I worked in a shop. All of the manufacturer's reps (that I spoke with) said it was a wife's tale and I do recall seeing something in writing from one of them that seemed to say it was bogus as well. (Can't remember which company though?) Any way, if anyone has any info or knows where we could get it I am curious. Thanks

Belay Slave: I distincly remember reading the Diamar product information (three years ago when I was getting my set up). It stated that the Diamar was not recommended for mountaineering boots.

Second Ascent usually has Moonstaone 3ply on sale for about $200.00.

I agree with kakiowa. I tried it with plastic mountaineering boots and got my but kicked. So I then purchased a pair of Tambos by Scarpa. I don't think they make them any more. I have an older pair of Silveratta 400s and they work just fine. I can tour, ski and climb in them. This set up will not do any of it great, but it does all of it good...If you know what I mean.