glen

Dan, Midweek is tough for me to get out to crags (stupid work). Let's keep in touch though.

See my post in the Climbing Partners section. If you are still looking for partners, drop me a message.

Looking for partners to get some rope time. I climbed consistently for about 15-20 years, kind of burned out and got distracted by mountain biking for a few years (hey, it's fun!). In that time I sold my trad rack to a friend who needed one (and was headed to Yosemite a lot, so there's that), and generally lost climbing fitness. In the interim most of my climbing partners have moved out of town, had kids, or otherwise are no longer available for local climbing. Anyways, the spark was reignited this summer and I've been dabbling at getting back into climbing shape physically and mentally. But, it is tough to make much progress without regular climbing partners. So, I'm looking for folks to crag with, do TR laps, get some easy leading in, and get just generally get rope time. It is sunny out, so would rather hit somewhere like Marymoor than a gym for after work climbs. That said, I'm not opposed to Stone Gardens or VW. I'm also interested in rolling out to Exit 38, etc. weekdays, or places like Leavenworth over weekends. Not doing much more than 5.9 right now, but it is coming back fast.

I'm selling my: - trusty Whisperlite International stove - 6 red MSR fuel bottles in a couple of sizes. - 3-piece MSR stainless steel pot set (Alpine 4) (1,2 and 3 L pots with lids) It's all been well-used and have all of the expected cosmetic blemishes, but they work well and won't disappoint. I live in Lynnwood, but work on Eastlake, which is a short hop down from the U-district. $50 obo takes it all. Please contact me via email at wallace_glen -at- yahoo. New, this would run close to $200 ($70 for the stove, $70 for the pots, and at least another $70 for the fuel bottles). Thanks! Glen

see PMs

Reminder that REI offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. I purchased a voile splitboard, took it out for a day in the bc and decided that it wasn't $800 better than snowshoes. REI took it back... kudos to them. I think that the decision as to whether or not a splitboard is the way to go depends on a few factors, including the type of terrain you are working in. If you are in steep terrain and mostly yo-yoing in the cascades, don't bother with the splitboard as it won't save you much time on the whole. If you are planning on doing more extended trips through moderate terrain, then it is a good option. Also note that to make good use of a splitboard moderate skiing ability is prerequisite. The voile setup is great, and totally top notch. The skins climb well, the setup is easy and the transition, while not as quick as with snowshoes, is still pretty fast.

Seems his technique was pretty effective in the end...

Looking for suggestions for a good, one to two day alpine climb in the Cascades, probably more towards the eastern parts of the range. For the group that is going, probably nothing harder than 5.7. If there are a few good climbs in an area that could be hit from a single base camp, that would be ideal as well (and the hot springs, and the perfect tent spot, and the perfect cooking rock, and nice views of everything, and... ). thoughts?

I think spray skirts should stay in the Spray section. Though, it could be argued that the skirts usually, and wisely, stay away from the Spray section. Hope you figure it out.

I'll throw in a second vote for Edwards In Huaraz. I also stayed there in July '96 and thought it was great. I stayed at a place called the Continental (translated) which was okay as well. At the time, Edward's was really helpful with strorage in their bodega while we were out in the hills for a week at a time. Glen

I thought it was the 'obvious descent route'?

I'll throw another recommendation in for the Cordillera Blanca. There is tons of stuff to do there, the locals are awesome and there are so many Quebradas out there to explore that 2-3 months would be easy to fill. The standard trek through Quebrada Santa Cruz and Llanganuco offer many side trips to great looking peaks (Huascaran, Alpamayo, Artesan Raju, etc.) in addition to many others. There are equally awesome trips around there in other quebradas also. Just watch out for the mangy/crazed cows. I wish I could find the picture of one of the qubradas with grass like a golf green covering the floor with giant pristine granite boulders dotting it- a bouldering haven with big walls all around for the taking. Yum.

My favorite quote from the book (may be paraphrased): "It doesn't have to be fun to be fun." Useful for graduate school too.

I was looking through the NPS jobs board and noticed that Mount Rainier is hiring a climbing ranger (mountaineering, of course). I figure someone on here is probably qualified and interested. It is listed on www.usajobs.opm.gov

Have fun down there, it is awesome! Just watch out for the water... I got a bug down there that landed me in the hospital... scary shit.