Matt_Alford

Mike- I am 30, like to climb, and I live in Greenlake/Greenwood. You are close to running (Greenlake, Golden Garden, CarKeek Park). I like the social sceen as well. Always hot chicks running down at the lake, the bars are cool with good laid back feel, and good COFFEE. You are a 10 minute bike ride from Ballard (climbing gyms, good bars, 2nd Ascent), Freemont (good bars, more hot girls), and The U-District (18-22 y/o hot girls). Good access to I-5 for getting in and out of the city. I say avoid Captial Hill, Northgate, Queen Anne and all of Shoreline.

Damnation at Castle Rock is Fun times. Maybe more of a chimney up high, but enough wide moves to qualify for discussion.

Toxic Shock? Then why is buddy SO fucking pumped? Years of Tantric Mastrabation have sculpted my physique. Matt, just explain to them that you will smash their skulls with your bare hands if they keep talking shit. Although I do like The Sill Man's suggestion.... It's called Crossfit ladies...what working people do Monday thru Friday stay on the game. If you are curious check it out at Enter the complete URL for the link you wish to add. crossfit.com.

Toxic Shock? Then why is buddy SO fucking pumped? Years of Tantric Mastrabation have sculpted my physique.

Truely, one of my proudest moments....ever.

This still on for tomorrow and Sunday?

These photos are from a summer 2003 trip. http://www.alpinefever.com/summer%202003/Triumph.htm I am shocked by the top photo.

Oh how it makes me miss my days at U of I...wasted at John's Ally...peanuts and beer at the Prospector...Hippie Chics...gotta love Moscow.

Anyone have recenty conditons for BC ice? Most recent report on www.westcoastice.com in from the 20th. I'm thinking that maybe some of the N. Facing Stuff in Bridge River will have survivied, but would like to hear from anyone who has been up. Thanks, Matt

I'm ringing in for the Canon Powershot series as well. I own a SD 600 and love it. As a person coming from a Nikon FM 2 I like the few manual features that the 600 has. Light, simple, the video looks great. Durability seems good thus far as well. I used mine on a bike tour of the west coast. Several ice climbing trips this winter and almost daily use in my classroom at school. My vote goes with the Canons.

The root of all evil.

Nice Ice Brian, way to get after it!

Sensitive & Gentle

Berdinka- I better hurry up and get on your friend list before you become to famous. Nice work! BTW. Thanks for the nice images of man and sheep on the back of my truck on Sunday. My principal called me in on Monday and asked me to go remove the "artwork" on the back of my truck as a few parents had complained. What a great role model Mr. Alford is with pictures of Men sodomizing sheep on the back of my truck. I imagine I have you and Justin to thank for that!

Maritime Pacific Jolly Joger...mmmmmmmmmmm. Local goodness.

Go to the Canadian Rockies...I have climbed in Lillooet until March in past years but it is very unpredictable. February could be a wash...go with the sure bet.

Trip: Lillooet, BC - Oregon Jack, Shreddie Attempt, Closet Secrets Date: 1/20/2007 Trip Report: I met Alan in B-Ham late Friday and crashed for a few hours. Woke early and rolled to Oregon Jack. Fat, cold, brittle. I broke a pick and had to lower and reload. Second attempt and I broke my face when I tapped a microwave sized blob a little to hard. Cussing, bleeding, and more climbing followed. Dr. Kearney inspected the wounds and prescribed steri-strips and Jack Daniels. Oregon Jack in Fat Conditons Wounded Recovering Sunday we drove South 99 to go and have a "look" at Shreddie. Much warmer today. I led first pitch to the cave, should have brought raingear and umbrella. Alan led up 30 feet out of cave onto bad ice and with bad pro. We bailed and had a go at Closet Secrets next door. A little thin in places, but good pro and good rests. Canadian hardmen Craig and Joe showed up and sent Shreddie in leashless style. Snapped some photos of them on the steeps. Good times in BC. Shreddie Alan on pitch one Alan climbing out of cave Closet Secrets Craig following on Shreddie Approach Notes: Head North to border, smile and show passport, continue north.

What is a belay device

Who is the dumbass reading the Guide Book upside down? Sure hope he wasn't your belay!

Spent four days up there in the middle of July. Hot, Hot, Hot. Had great weather for 3 days of climbing. Snow conditions were soft and crampons were not needed, even for 3-4 am starts. The Snowpatch-Bugaboo col was in good shape and didn't present and issues. However, a sizable shrund was beginnng to open about half way up the steep ramp to the col and I imagine that it would be significant by now. Route condintions were good then, the W. ridge of Piegon had a little veriglass, but it did not present a problem. Cain route on Bug had large snowfielg over class III terrain down low but could be largely avoided. NE Ridge of Bug was snow/ice free and focken awesome!!! New favorite alpine rock route-you need to motor on it though if you don't want to spend the night up there with a lightning storm. I feel fairly competent and knew the descent and spent 14 hours hut to hut. Two parties the had unplanned bivies the previous night. I recommend a 2-3 am start from the hut so you can be at the base the route at first light. Many parties go unroped throughout the Bugs, but the Snowpatch-Bug col calls for one-especially in icey conditions as they are likely to be now. Hope this help-have lots o fun! Cheers

Double ropes rock (no pun intended), especially with groups of two or three that require long raps. Rope drag is less, traverses are easier to protect, and the management thing can be addressed with a little practice at the crags. I feel safe on a double as well. I don't understand why the system isn't more popular here in the US? I agree about looking for an epic with four on N. Ridge of Stuart. And since it requires no raps I would be inclined to take a 60 meter 9.6 rope. Have fun

I am looking for condition report on the North Ridge of Baker. Anyone been up it in the past week or so that would like to share some info? Cheers-

Anyone been on the N. Ridge of Baker lately that would like to share some info on conditions. Especially lower Coleman crossing to access route.