nightfly

Looking at a trip in the spring, I am wondering how many folks out there have gotten away with running single layer boots (nepal top or other) at these lower elevations. I always ran double boots on all my previous Ruth trips, but I seem to remember partners who ran single layer boots that time of year maybe with overbooties? That was 15/20 years ago. I know the tech has changed. GO!

Were headed up for some skiing but i'm thinking of taking a detour for a day. Is the ice still in back there? I can't remember if the upper part sees sun yet and if that make's it considerably more dangerous due to rockfall? Any thoughts? Will the park still let you get snowmobiles back there this time of year? Road to Nowhere? Anybody been back ther lately? What's in, big, and Fat? Regards

We seconded it a week days after Ivan and his partner. We were up on the route canal for the Ham and Eggs when they were out on their little foray. I don't remember if they backed off because of the snow or what, maybe they were jsut in craging mode. I cannot remember. I do remember they kept us well fed bcause we did not bring up enough food. Snow condidtions were ugly that year, and I am sure they encountered the same shit as us. A little crust on top of three feet of unconsolated TG. pretty scarry for the steep snow climbing. Pretty fun and fairly reasonable. A good bump up from the H & E before getting on Shaken or Levatation

The "Unforgiven" is the left leaning slash inbetween the two big hangers on climzalot first pict. It would be a good way to summit both the Bear & the Eye tooth. Snow conditions were pretty shitty when we topped her out so we chose to bail, but given the right snow you would be crusing rather quickly once out onto the gaicer on the left. P1: m5 (fairly serious) P2: long snow P3: scetchy thin ice m5/wi5 P4&5: "the sweetness" killer sticky water ice in a long chimney.

Hey all, trying to get stoked on the next year already loooking for good picts of the ruth in general, lower ruth, good photos of bradly - espechally the east face and london tower. please email to nightfly45@yahoo.com

Hey i may be dopey; but at least i get up shit. and that guy looks like a hardman to me.

All I can say after growing up there is look for the cairns they should still be there even after six years hike up about a thosand feet and poke areound there are sme good to be had keep going for another fifteen minutes (on a dry trail) up and around when the trail starts to jog right park it and head straight up you are aiming for a large yosemite style corner that acesses a rather large chossy wall. winter only as things migth need to be frozen. there are a few shitty sport climbs in and around as well. Rock on

Sorry bro I guess i jsut got ahead of myself. Growing up so close I have known that face for years, and just thought I would spray a little; as being a faceless unknown name on you computer screen tends to make people do. Are you talking about the cabin up at the top of upper Dearmon Rd, The one that if my foggy memory serves me is pretty run down or are you up around powerline pass parking lot, Andy P grew up at the end of the street first right just past the turn off to the parking lot. He was a cranking mother fucker; the son of indian chef, adopted to white old school mountain folks. My friend for years; sadly some demons you jsut can't escape. You can get pretty rad up there when the mountains have snow and the winter chill hits town. The Chugach choss is the stuff. if you can climb comfortably weaving together a web of frozen turf and iced together flakes you will be comforatble anywhere. Pretty rad, that 4000 foot alpine north face jsut a quick jaunt away from a town of 300,000. And there is so much more if you can get your hads on a snowmoble. Sadly enough after twenty plus years I had had it, and now it is the desert all the way for me. Tan girls are much better to look at anyway.

Sorry to drowned your stoke but the line on the right is the "Right Ski Track" I think it was a Sassara mid 1990's Hard to tell but it looks like the "desprate and Dateless" variation Which was Sunkist/Stover/Fay 1999. But could have ben the Fay/Sunkist variation on the other side of the diedhedral which was 1999 as well. Ptarmign peak has been been looked at for thirty years and who knows what kind of hard asses lurked there. Andy Payton god rest his soul, grew up a two minute walk from the glen alps trail head. He was a psycho mother with jim beyer desert repeats -- solo; and who knows what kind of shit he laid on up there. But party on wayne it is probably a fourth or fifth ascent. Looks like hookers was a bit thin this year NOW That is A climb. Contact Carl Tobin for the real scoop. The old guard had been out there poking around for a while now -- Teal, Garvey, Sweeny, Hunt. If you really want the shiznit keep on biking and head around to the North West face. Some sport climbs exsist but the real meat and potatos will have to wait till next winter. empty spaces produce mindless faces J1 P.S.And if you find a rusty Dana designs bag of gear up there it is mine. That's what smoking too much of the AK Crypto weed does to you -- you jsut plain loose you mind (and other things).

Hey there, just checking in and seeing if anyone has any good ideas for a high line set up I have heard lots of beta but just thought I would fish for a bit more. i have heard that at high tension that folk release everything onto prussiksand keep the biners as a backup. also how do you get the 9/16 through the big tubular for a hundred and fifty foot line? Is there a special technique or do you just flail through the process? anyway we have a good one out here in the desert and once we get the rig down we will be haveing all sorts fun. any info would be appreciated this has been a message form the climbing center of the universe in western colorado

That is NOT what it looked like a few years ago in early sept, guess that one is off the list unless the snow gods get angry. you guys are the bomb thanks for the info.---Oh yea what a killer picture. hasta

Hola Amigos, I am gonna be back in town for a bit in late november and have J-berg on my mind. Looking to fire the coulor, so it probably will be a weather dependante kinda thing. I have been looking things up on the search engine but just thouht I would put it out there again. Has anybody been up there that late, good decent options, road info, thoughts, ect, possible musings.

Strange place for a desert post but there were Lots of Northwesteners out in the desert in late november. missing one pair of Tan colored Mega Drus. lost at the base of Thumbelina or possibly sunflower tower. around the 20th of november. just thought it dosen't hurt to check.

Hey Everybody. Only two weeks left for me in the pacific northwest for awhile. With a week and a half of time off before we go i wanted to get out a bit. i have been looking around but time is short. Looking for condition beta on these routes and any others that have been kller outings for folks. feel free to post if you have any info i would appreciate it greatly thanks. How cold has it been getting at night in the pickets lately? has it been consistant? Buckner north face. Any Ice? Norheast face/ridge Forrbidden? Stairway to heaven coulor, J-berg? (that just my name for it) North central rib Triumph Fisher Chimny"s and the north face on Shuksan Baker's north ridge. Or anything else for that matter that has been good to folks. I would like to get in some good ice but it just might be a bit early for that yet any way thanks for your posts. James

Anybody out there been on this one, any beta? just looking for any little tidbits that might help. I have the becky guide but were just looking for some extra info. thanks