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Just wanted to add a bit to this post for anyone who may have similar injuries. I'm now 5 months into this and I can walk unassisted with a mild limp on even ground. My hopes of climbing this spring(or this summer) were a bit optimistic as the thought of wedging my foot into a crack, or worse, toeing on a slab seem a distant possibility. Pain still occurs on the inside and outside ligaments and my achilles is tight. The interior pain comes from what I guess to be bone to bone contact between the fib/tib to talus. The swelling exists but has subsided obviously and there still remains a bit of bruising. The MRI, according to the doctor revealed nothing out of the ordinary. 2 months of PT seemed beneficial but then again I expected to be better at the conclusion of my time there. Glassgowkiss I think is right with his recovery time estimates of up to 12 months. Anything anyone wishes to contribute I'll welcome. Thanks.

I've read a few of your replies on similar issues here and it seems you know what your talking about...which concerns me because my doc didn't recommend fusing, but did say my foot could become arthritic. What's your take on recovery time? Are there any specific exercises concerning the subtalar joint you (or others) could recommend? I've read that fusing will be a minimum of 12 weeks w/o weighting; that's nothing I'm in the mood for with my current state and surf plans. Presently my plan has consisted of 'ABC's' and testing moderate weighting of the foot in hopes of increasing blood flow...no meds. Thanks for your input.

Your injury sounds burly in comparison. Was it the talus an fib/tib? My flexibility is less than 50% of what it used to be, hoping that will be better in time. Talking about 3 months of being down seems relatively easy, once recovered...when in the middle of recovery it seems endless. I've been down for 5-ish weeks and I swear it feels more like 5 months. I will (hopefully) be headed to Costa Rica, Guanacaste, Nicoya Peninsula...then possibly places further south. Thanks for the reply.

Took a climbing fall in Red Rocks in early Nov., foot caught an edge and my heel twisted out. On the 2 mile hobble out I tripped and took another fall on the injured right foot. ER doc got it wrong diagnosing the injury as a sprain but my foot and bone specialist determined that my calcaneous bone (heel) wrenched up slamming into my talus bone (outside) breaking a piece off of the talus. This piece then broke into 8 small pieces which had to be surgically removed. I've been on crutches since and can put only a moderate amount of weight on my foot (with pain). I have had x-rays and CT scan only, no MRI because the doc says 'yes, there's likely some ligament damage as well' and the healing instructions for my bone injury and subsequent surgery would be the same as for a sprain. The pain however feels more directed towards my achilles area and inside ankle. For those who can relate or may have experience in this area, do you think it would be wise to have an MRI to determine ligament or tendon damage or is there nothing one can do to correct these issues over rest, ice, etc.? I'm not sure how to classify my sprain but assuming a class 2, would 8-10 weeks recovery time be sufficient. Should one try walking early despite the pain in the ligaments to increase blood flow in the area? I have a month long surf trip planned at the end of February that I would hate to miss because I didn't pay attention to the proper signs and over did it. Thanks for any input.

Maybe you were at or near Mini 8-Mile...Smorgasbord? Doesn't sound like Memorial or at least what the last few additions of L-worth Rock refer to as Memorial Buttress. From the top of Middle 8-Mile one would have a decent amount of rope free walking up and right to do along with a noticeable drainage crossing to reach. You would come across an area refered to as South Park from the left before reaching M-Buttress. Swingline and Buzzbomb are however worth the walk if you find yourself rummaging up in that area again.

Maybe a bit off topic but I'm interested in the Cinch accidents you speak of as this is my preferred tool. I've heard of incidents with the Cinch but all were from user error and of no fault of the device. Don't want to good device to get fragged here because someone couldn't figure out proper usage...

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Never worn, just tried on for size (too small) after I purchased online. Waited too long to send back. US size 8 Brand new in box as seen here: Five Ten Projects CC Review $80 Thanks

Incredible trip Sweez, an inconceivable amount of hard climbing in a relatively short period. Not to take away from your more recent accomplishments, but...they say a picture is worth a thousand words and this one picture is no exception. Labeled 'photo from last fall' the climber pictured seems to exude such poise and grace, sort of 'cool under fire' look and display an seemingly intimate knowledge of the goings on of wall climbing I just had to ask you, if you wish, to elaborate on this: Once again, fine work on one ass-kickin trip!

...if I can suggest some more: Twinkie this is now a 3 pitch line with the crux at .10c on the 1st pitch. Shop and Compare haven't done this one but it looks amazing and many other stellar lines in that area The adventure route on the Sorcerer's Stone, can't remember the name but the final crack pitch is worth the wandering.

These areas mentioned are all open however other areas (zones) at Castle are curently closed, consult the parks website Castle Rock and/or stop by the ranger station right outside the park for the latest. From my experience the latest route info (for zones 1 and 2) can be found here Zone 1 and here Zone 2 . I'm not a fan of Bingham's guide books but they do detail areas not found elsewhere. I personally prefer the rock climbing at the Castle over the neighboring City; routes are varied, rock quality is amazing and aside from the hoardes at Castle Rock proper the people seem to thin out the further away from the parking lot you get. One of my absolute favorite crack climbs is here at the city is Comp Splitter goodness on Comp Wall but there are plenty around here that I haven't done that I'm sure are as good or better. When are you going? I know some guys heading there for a month shortly and could probably use a partner if you're in need. Enjoy!

A bit too late for your winter break but some folks got after it: http://cheynelempe.blogspot.com/2011/01/zenyatta-mondatta-el-capitan-winter.html

What I think of when I see this pic: 'Ummm...excuse me mate. Do you think your haulbag will hold on that bad rope? Is it safe to climb underneath you? I can't bear to look.' Nice write up on the blog but geeez...you forgot to mention Nutcracker and the encouner with Douchebag Climber.

I wonder if you would even be into climbing if it weren't for CC.com...

I wouldn't say, in comparison, there's a 'limited amount of rock' on the south face, you've seen it I'm sure. Smith and Yosemite = apples and oranges. This route should stand as is.