Terminal_Gravity

Dude...near dead from a boom hit, and still finished the trip??? Maybe your brain was damaged. Really glad you are alive! Was it on a gybe?

"Los Tetas de Cabra" .....Goat tits! TeteKawa; I think is the given name if we are talking about the same bump. Hey brother, I have been up it a few times. I've never been to the top of the finger spike. I did not have gear and I don't know if there is a rappel anchor at the top. Did you climb the spike? It looks like 5.6/7 (wide fist jamb, about 30 feet with a very bad landing) if I remember correctly. https://www.google.com/maps/place/San+Carlos+Nuevo+Guaymas,+Sonora,+Mexico/@27.952265,-111.044947,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1s75637624!2e1!3e10!6s%2F%2Flh4.googleusercontent.com%2Fproxy%2FqFOFLo2aG223oCmDes2GgEAP5D3Cz610TMep8tQdFTqAo0BD7NkxgbStvEBQyHJIPQWB0pifF3ysbGd-gIaNJWuWQQo5lQ%3Dw203-h134!7i3008!8i2000!4m2!3m1!1s0x86ce85bbf683a47f:0x6572657d71023c5

Ouch!!! The grey fog will fade. I am sorry to hear about it. That beam can be a bitch. Was it on a jibe? With anything more then a zephyr, they are always violent. I hope your "bean" is okay.

BTW Ivan, I think your signature note is brilliant. - s

I'm still kick'in. I am surprised and glad to hear from you. You are out on the water? I want a TR.

After I put on Neosporin and bandaged my feet, I had a strong margarita!

I am not sure awesome is the right word.....I was scared!

Trip: Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop Date: 1/5/2016 Trip Report: There is an island about a mile and a half from the beach I'm on. It is about 300 yards long and 100 yards wide. I left in my Kayak for a different destination further out. I had to piss and there was some annoying trash at the top of the island. So I say to myself; Self, you can beach the kayak, take a piss and clean up the trash. It sounds like the right thing to do! This island is sea beaten. It has a small cliff all the way around it with one small rock beach on the West side and a tiny sand beach on the East side. I approach from the East. I beach the boat. The tide is coming in, But I am not going to be here for long so I don't pull the boat up very far. Take my piss, take off my life vest and look at the twenty five foot wall in front of me. I assume the rock is loose the landing is sub-optimal but I see a stairway. Some what over hanging in parts but it looks like 5.3 - loose. I want to clean up the trash at the top. It seems like the right thing to do! I start up in in my Teva's. It was loose, about what I expected. What I did not factor was all of the bird poop. It is some greasy shit!!! Slime like you would not believe. So I am going to have to rate this Bird Doop 5.10b-d+. I get to the top throw the trash off of the cliff to my kayak and start pondering the decent. My Teva's were so coated by this point that I had slipped on the top, not paying attention, and bruised my right palm as a consequence. I am thinking that the decent might be above my skill set. I walk all around the island.The west side has an easy approach to the water. I decide to just "Man Up" and down climb to my boat. It seems like the only choice. I decide that the best decision is to go au natural and I toss my Teva's down so that I can start with clean feet. That was the wrong thing to do! I twist around and lower my feet onto a couple of marginal holds, lean out a bit to look for the next move and my main hand hold pulls free! I scramble back up and realize that Even with all of the times I have survived Yosimite, the Cascades and the Andes; I could actually die here. I am over a mile from shore, the tide will take my boat soon, my water and food are in the boat, if I jump it will hurt and I will probably break something. What now??? Dear prudence says don't down climb the cliff. So, bare foot, I cross the island, get into the water and semi traverse climb and semi wade over sharp rocks around the island. Tortured feet, crashing waves and lurking sea urchins. I was so happy to see my boat still beached. Here is the island https://www.google.com/maps/place/83040+San+Carlos+Nuevo+Guaymas,+Sonora,+Mexico/@27.9341815,-110.9919372,360m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x86ce85bbf683a47f:0x6572657d71023c5 How was your day? Gear Notes: none to speak of Approach Notes: water

Best wishes to Bonzo! Kurt was one of the most influential ( to me ) posters on the board in the early years of CC.spray. I love him for it. Get well fast, man. I have a bit of experience with that punctured lung thing...practice practice practice with that little exhale device they give you. If any body wants to have a fund rasier or anything else that would require some beer on Kurts behalf you can count on me for donating as much beer as you want. Let me know. -steve

No photos???

As I write this I can see Sketch & Funguy with binoculars from my office window. Sombody is leading the lower crux WI3+ish.

A week ago it was looking really good. I've climbed about 6 times in the past 2 weeks. And have discovered some new sweet lines. Unfortunately, the last 5 days were really friggin warm and I was getting depressed about all the melting. Sunday I found myself wallowing (wallowaling?)in 50 degree weather through belly deep snow (cement?) up a gully to get on a shitty little 20 foot section of tool sucking, aerated and melting ice. Oh, the things we do for love. BUT... as I write this the temps are dropping again and with a wee smile from the weather man we will have spectacular conditions in a week. FWIW Feb & March are usually the best months out here.

I have comitments in the afternoon, but the earlier the better is fine I'll be there between 4:30 & 5:30. I may try to bum a shower & a couch later that night. cheers

I'll be in PDX Sunday and very ready for a beer. I'd love to hook-up with some of the crew. I'ts about time we had a pub club. How about the Concordia Ale house on 33rd & Killingsworth? For some reason I couldn't post on the event forum...sorry; if one of the Moderator gods wants to move this. it is okay with me.

Thanks to everyone. I had a great time and actually climbed some shit. I'm glad you enjoyed the beer. I am happy to bring it. You guys are like my extended family. Sketch: I will be your belay bitch anytime...I just have to remember to pack a lunch next time!

ESG it is...I'll bring a few bottles for you IPA diehards. ' be there around 11:00 tonight!

see above post

I'll bring 5 gallons of my Festivale and a full keg of either Breakfast Porter, IPA or my ESG (extra special golden) If nobody reaches a quick consensus on witch one, I'll bring the golden...it's very quaffable. I'll also bring the taps & the buckets. If any body wants to kick down for some ice, that would be nice. Unfortunatly, I don't know yet when I can take off, but I'll be there sometime between 5pm & midnight today. I'm looking forward to seeing all of you..I'm even looking forward to climbing some shit. - steve

The 22nd it is!

I voted (only once)for the 15/16...but if it's gotta be the next week; I'll try to make it.

Hey Flash Climber, I don't understand the reference to Snake Dike. You suggest reading up on it. Where? The first time I climbed it I wore EB's. The first climbers probably wore PA's. I have known people that have free soloed it by moon light. The crux was well protected and the anchor's on the run out YDS 5.4 were reasonable. IMHO Has it been grid bolted? I think that any solid 5.9 leader with steath 5 rubber, a clear head and a rope with a lower impact force then goldline could safely lead Snake Dike. (Which BTW is a spectacular and very worth-while, albeit technically easy climb by modern standards; contrary to your implication). I have absolutely no idea why a classic and beautiful climb, in an alpine setting, with a crux of 5.7 needs to have the simple 5.4 section made safe for a leader who has managed to pull off their life time best of a single 5.8 move on plastic in a gym. The whole concept reeks of EGO, domination of nature and the distruction of adventure for the committed by the weak. I don't care about your style. Do what ever YOU like in the mountains...as long as it leaves them the way they were for the next party; so that they can explore and challenge themselves the way they want to.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/208882/an/0/page/17#208882 A bit more discussion (verbage) on the NF in summer. That photo looks pretty close to what I climbed...right or wrong.

Hrrumph! Write me a PM & I'll answer...if the answer is long give me your phone number & I'll call ( I type rather slowly.) The photeo is deceptive. I believe it is the taken from a bit north of east and is one of the less dramatic views. The west face is three times as large and has atleast two grade fives on it. If your interested in the adventure you need to post a gaurd on the top to keep tourists from trundeling. Dave Jensen ( of Yosimite fame) put up two routes in the late 70's on the west face. I believe 5.9,a3+ and 5.8,a4. I have soloed a 5.4 grade 3 on the right side of the east face and there is plenty more to climb on that side of the mountain. In fact someone that is a lot more talented than me could could probably out up a new significant free route on the nose direct...if they lived to tell about it. If anybody has a good photo of the east face it might be worth posting...the above photo does not do the mountain justice. All of the above being said, even though I believe the Matterhorn to be the largest face in Oregon; the rock quality is only okay at best and there is plenty of that sugar crust that limestone gets that makes it impossible to climb steep without excavating down to the solid stuff. I personally prefer the greenstone and granite in the area if I am looking for back country adventure climbing.

The Matterhorn is limestone...but there is granite in the area.