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Donkeykong

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  1. Hola, I´m back in La Paz. Spent two weeks climbing in the Cordillera Apolobamba. Check with Condoriri (on Sagarnaga). They have a small route guide and the new Meseli guide. The new Meseli guide is not yet in english (a few months), but is expanded (not just the Cordillera Real) and costs $32!!!. It will replace the Yossi Brain book for sure. Very detailed. Good luck, RC
  2. No, Not really. Catching up on emails before headind to the Cordillera Apolobamba in the morning. Had lunch a few days ago with Jason Martin, who is doing a guiding gig. I wish him luck, met a few of his clients in MIA. Later, RC
  3. Colin, quote: We did the upper North Ridge in a long car-to-car day. It is in fun winter/spring conditions, with rock, snow, and even some ice. When were you up there? North ridge of what? We went up to climb the Stuart Glacier Coulier (Car-Car) and encountered less than ideal conditions. Fun? Not really. Spring conditions..yes. Knee deep post-holing all the way up to the schrund we had to bail. The last place we wanted to be was in the coulier at sunrise...it's the only time in the day the sun hits that face. There was a very thin crust, but nothing to remotely hold body weight. We took a straight line up to the coulier from the cliff bands (with WI) above Stuart lake. It never improved and we were making painfully slow progress. When we looked back up at the mountain from bellow, our tracks were clearly visible literally straight up to our high point. We saw 'biler tracks near Goats Pass and down to the moraine, but we did not see any other tracks-anywhere. I'm a little confused. Since you had such a good time (and a fast ascent of N.Ridge), how did you approach? Or perhaps, did you levitate? Later.
  4. Action suits? Check out your hero.... Mark Twit
  5. Swiss.
  6. Kangchenjunga region. Not many people go there. Great views of Kanch, Jannu. Good day climbs out of Pang Pema. Been there many times and have worked with Kangchenjunga School Project.Kangchenjunga School Project Zambuling Treks & ExpeditionGPO Box: 1637, Dhumbarahi, Kathmandu, NepalPhone: 977-1-421222, Fax: 977-1-421222E-mail: zambuling@info.com.np namastehaveaniceday.
  7. Go, go, go! We were in Bolivia last May/June. Conditions were not the best, but not too-bad. There was a lot of unconsolidated/fresh snow on Huayana Potosi. The normal route gets done a lot, so that is'nt a problem. French route....different story. We wasted some time on it, wading through waist-deep powder. Look at the west face route. Speaking of wasting time...If you are planning on Illimani, I think you will be disappointed. Route conditions in Condoriri were good in may.
  8. Sorry, Mark Twit fan club already exists!Check it out: web page
  9. Must post. Boulder blows. Everything about Boulder blows. Did I say that? Totally with Alpinek. I almost moved there…BIG mistake. The whole time I was planning to move in with my girlfriend, so I was flying out regularly, climbing at Eldo, Lumpy and RMNP. I tried to convince myself it was at least more convenient access than the cascades. Not impressed. Hope you are easily amused. If you are content bouldering, teabaggin’ sportysport, you'll be in your element. Boulder itself sucks. Walk down that tourist walking street...Pearl street...you'll puke. In the end, I dumped the Chinese girl, stayed here. If want to move/visit the Rockies, move/vist to Canadia.
  10. Nastiness in Nepal Maoists Bomb Lukla Airporttest February 8, 2002 February 8 - The British Mountaineering Council is warning climbers and trekkers to stay out of Nepal after Maoist rebels detonated a bomb just outside the Lukla airport. Lukla is the gateway to the Everest region for foreign visitors. The US State Department has not released a new warning since its January 24th advisory that travelers to Nepal "exercise caution" due to rebel activity. The bombing occurred on the evening of Monday, February 4th. It did not cause major damage to the airport, but local authorities are concerned that the rebels are planning more attacks. Maoists are also being blamed for a February 5th attack that killed 16 policemen in Katmandu. According to Reuters News, that was the worst single episode of violence in Nepal since the attack on the royal family a year ago. It’s estimated that 2,300 people have died in Maoist-sponsored attacks over the past six years. The April/May issue of Rock & Ice will feature a comprehensive report on the political climate of Asian climbing ranges. — Mark Eller This was on Rock$Ice today. My Stepmother still thinks the Eastern Nepal Himalaya is safe and is going this spring. She needs to put down the bong. She seems to have forgotten the '94 elections. I have not been in Nepal for a few years and there are a few peaks on the new list that might make me tempt fate!
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