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payaso

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Everything posted by payaso

  1. Thanks, I was just looking for some of people's observations on the two. The reason I ask is that the new one looks like a close of the Black Diamond device. What is the "sharpening" issue?
  2. I have a Reverso that I bought a year ago and now they have changed the design to mimic the Black diamond belay device. What are the pros and cons of each of these and is this an "improvement?" Thanks.
  3. Try TopoFusion! http://www.topofusion.com/ It is free (you need to pay to remove the "Demo" watermark) and it has imagery, USGS, landsat, Canadian topos, and more. It also integrates with you handheld GPS, as well as GIS data if you are so inclined.
  4. Looks like the survey is complete. What were the results?
  5. I'm sure the Bergschrund will be filled in again by September. Go for it.
  6. Any Pro needed for Fury? If so what? Would you ascend the Challenger schrund to the left or right and if it is getting steep would your recommend a couple screws? Don't want to go up there and wish I had brought one more piece of gear. Thanks.
  7. I must have a cookie I never deleted left on my computer from 2001. this simply must be the same thread that has given life an primary direction for this website since it's inception.
  8. thanks for all your patient replies. I tend to like camping high where possible and only get into shelters when the weather stinks. It sounds like we could jam about 9 people into the bivy area and have a decent climb approach for climb day. I am also worried about the cars at the parking lot since it seems like the local natives have taken to abusing vehicles this past winter. I think that technically we can find a way up the summit. The bivy ridge seems more reasonable than the super long day from the hut in my opinion. We can always stay night two at the hut if we have the time and energy. I have always wanted to get up in this area and everyone's advise is most helpful. Thank you.
  9. So stuff gets rippied off from the hut? The mopst challeging factors I can see are a long approach and the summit block which we will probably attempt in several small and fast groups. Can you please elaborate what you consider the challenges? Are you suggesting camping at the bivy notch or the Hut? How much room for how many people is at the bivy notch. Thanks for you answers.
  10. Brohm ridge looks more direct, do some of you consider it easier? I will be up there with some people with relative light experience and the guide books say the Elfin huts are the easiest way. The hut however looks a bit far from the summit, making peak day a big dragout marathon. Or maybe it's not so bad. I am hoping snowshoes suffice. Brohm looks shorter for sure.. Thanks everyone for your help and patience!
  11. I will probably be using snowshoes, sorry skiiers. For the approach via elfin lakes, what do people consider to be the ideal higher base camp. I think there is the glacier right below Dalton Dome that might be reasonable.
  12. I want to get near the hairpin turn to access Bench lake via the TH there. This is a short distance East of the Paradise parking lot. Is it open any farther than the Paradise parking lot? Thanks.
  13. So the current conditions in the chute are that it has gotten steeper than in previous years? I was thinking about going up there and was just going to do the "standard" south route, but might bring a spare tool for the left variation that you talk about.
  14. Thanks for the replies. Most of you understood what I meant. I had heard that this route had a significant washout a couple years back and was wondering if this had been fixed. Perhaps I misunderstood the beta on the washout as being on a road and not the trail / climbing route. If it was the access road to the TH, it must be fixed if people are driving to it currently. If it was the trail / climbing route, I would need information on this as well. I have never climbed / hiked up in that area before. I plan on doing this in early June. I had thought that perhaps since this is in Garibaldi Provincial Park that there might be some person employed there who may have some backcountry knowledge regarding at least approach conditions. Thanks for the help!
  15. Hi All, haven't been on here in a long time and my how I like the new look! Anyway, I imagine a few people are hoping to climb Garibaldi this year and wanted to start a Garibaldi via the Elfin Lakes Hut approach thread. Can anyone recommend a phone number for access conditions? Does Garibaldi PP know anything about climbers access? Thanks ahead of time.
  16. Here is a shot of this just last Sunday the 23rd. We were up there but didn't get any closer than 8500ft. Too melted out. Apparently we made a good choice.
  17. Has anyone been up Mt Baker and witnessed how melted out the Boulder / Park glacier route(s) are lately? I would appreciate any info, thank.
  18. WAAS is virtually useless in the mountains. In fact you will get better performance by disabling WAAS and you will consume less batteries as well. It is appropriate for boating or anywhere with wide clear views of the horizons.
  19. So recently I waded into the realm of cell phone plans and new phones and such and realized that analog phones seem to be on the way out. Analog is the setting on my phone that allows me to pick up a signal in Marblemount and other remote locations. It is also the only glimmer of hope that mountaineers have of making an emergency call out in the wilderness. I haven't seen much noise being made out of this by the climbing community. What are people's experiences with the latest phones? For me one of the main reasons I bought a cell phone was for the ability to place an emergency call if I needed to. While I know that few phones will work deep in the mountains, there are some strategic points where you can pick up a weak signal if you need to. Here is an interesting letter. http://www.sarinfo.bc.ca/Library/Communications/CellphoneOperation.txt I think we should be a little concerned.
  20. New details regarding the accident. Unfortunately it appears to be an anchor failure. http://www.skagitvalleyherald.com/articles/2005/07/12/news/news01.txt
  21. Can you folks with the CCW Chaos tell me if there are straps at the bottom of the pack for a sleeping mat or tent? I like having the option of rolling something up and storing it down there although it seems out of fashion lately.
  22. payaso

    Gym Climbers

    My point wasn't really that there is anything at all with climbing gyms. I'm sure I'll get off my duff and get into it one of these days. What REALLY seems weird is like the last poster said. It is now entirely possible to be introduced to a group of people who "climb" yet you have nothing in common. Usually when you meet climbers and have a few brews the discussion goes into the one-upmanship mode. "That was nothing, you should have been there the time we had to bivy on......" What is also equally weird is how they often show little or no interest in actually getting out and climbing something. Its like they only enjoy it in a gym setting. Yeah, ok, its better than many things they could be doing. Its just an observation that seems weird to me, that all.
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