Doug_Hutchinson

This one is easy. Anyone who has been to other gyms knows, anyone who has only climbed at PRG has some weird, difficult-to-justify loyalty. Before the new PRG opened, a friend told me that rock gyms are like airports: newer is always better. My reply was that if the new PRG was close to the 8?-year old Club Sports, I would be pysched! Is it? Awful color and the extremely thin texture, tons of blank wall space, a very cramped and low bouldering area, tight policies, cold 'tude, etc. If it is all you have - enjoy, but understand that you were/and still are paying a lot for a second rate/over-priced rock gym. In close-in PDX, it's all we have, so hard to complain. Any other big city, and we aint too lucky.

Last year really brought home the need to get a better glove system for the "white rain" days. I have owned lots of goretex shell gloves but they all wet out pretty quickly in the rain, even with goretex-lined inner gloves. Anyone have a good glove system? Neoprene? Some cool synthetic? How about even leather? Gets totally wet but with the right lining may be better that limp, wet nylon.

You kinda need to do Radiohead in order or their progression may be too weird if you jump ahead too much. Skip the first (Pablo Honey) cuz it sounds too poppy and single-oriented (has a few great songs). The Bends (2nd) rocks but OK Computer (3rd) is better and is the one that every critic creamed their pants over. The next two (Kid A, Amnesiac ) are both equally weird but great after listening to a lot. The new one (Hail to the Thief) is great and a little easier to like. Wit that said, buy OK Computer and Hail to the Thief - fill in the blanks later. I didn't really get their greatness until I saw them at the Gorge two years ago - like seeing the Stones in '72, Led Zep in '74, Talking Heads in '81, or Ween in '99 - fucking amazing! Radiohead plays Vancouver, BC 8/30 and White River (Auburn, WA) 8/31. Both are sold out I think but I suggest killing for ticket. If you can't get one, I recommend Ween in PDX 9/30-31 - just announced.

Great discussion, although I still feel the anti-re-bolting argument has not been articulated well enough for me to understand it. Proposal: Any and all interested in this issue meet near the Breakfast Cracks this Tuesday (7/29) night between 5:15 and 6:00 to discuss. No new hardware will be installed, discussion only. However, since I strongly agree with those who suggest the Butte needs more cleanup work, bring a garbage bag, you'll fill it in a few minutes.

The AAC has done cleanups in the past and is a source of dollars for hardware. I am already working on that. I understand Wayne's point about this being a little chapter in the sordid history of the butt, but along those lines, it seems about time for another "golden age" out there with new anchors and some brush cutting. I take off tomorrow for a two week trip (Lotus Flower Tower) but when I get back I plan on organizing something. I have access to a few rotohammers, anyone else? Why don't you hardcore Tues night people discuss plans over some cheap pints in the meantime and then we have a meeting out there Tues, July 29?

What the fuck and by whom? I was amazed to see all the removed anchors at the top many of the Breakfast Cracks classics and elsewhere at the Butte. There is a note on a tree above the Toothpick Wall directed at the perpetrator and mentioning his former signs (which I have not seen). Anyone know what is going on? It appears time for a huge retro-bolting, cleanup, lovefest at the much-maligned Butt, but first we need to know what is going on out there.

Beckey mentions something about "lots of booty at the base of L. Crack" and my partner made sure to contribute over the July 4th weekend. Dropped: 1) 1 pair Petzl jumars off 8th pitch, landing on snow field at base. 2) Small two way radio at top of last pitch (probably sitting at ledge before walking to rap). 3) Camera off Over Exposure rap anchors and down on snow patch east of Liberty Bell col. Email me when you find his stuff (the radio is mine and I need it to make a pair)!

Due to the amount of logging in the last two years near Slesse, the descent parking area is a little different than described above. At 4.7 miles, the left turn still goes up but the road is immediately gated again. This intersection is now only a Y instead of a 3-way. Take the right fork and head into a new, large clearing with huge piles of (soon-to-be-burned?) brush. Park here. I was amazed at how overgrown the old road to the Sleese Creek Trail (descent trail) now is. In areas, the road requires more alder bush wacking than the steep climber's trail descent. This weekend, the glacier and the NE Buttress were in exceptional conditions. There were some crevasses of course, but it was the easiest crossing of the Pocket Glacier I have seen.

To clarify the post above, the second pitch (I think) traverses left but there are harder variations that head straight up - stay left and low instead. This pitch may seem as hard as the crux higher up which is a typical Smith 10a (soft with a very short crux). The whole route is .7 and .8 Smith face climbing with a some very short sections of .9 climbing. A great multi-pitch sport route.

While descending Whistler Peak on Friday, May 2, I lost 3 nice, new BD express ice screws. (Note - do not glissade and/or posthole with screws on plastic racking biner). Descended several different avy gullies on the SW side of the peak to end up at the Bridge Creek TH (I think that's what it's called. If you find them, I'll make it worth your while if you email me. Thanx

Another age old problem! One thing that helps is to use short, fat skis, but I am assuming you already have the skis, boots, and bindings. For years I used different versions of "Frankencuffs" which are the boot cuffs removed from downhill boots with webbing through the rivet holes that goes under your plastic boot's instep so the cuff is worn like a gaiter. It really helps but these Frankencuffs can get bulky. The best solution I have seen, is a product Koflach made the first year it came out with it newer Y-series of boots (Degre, Vertecal, Artis Equip) called the "Ski Spoiler." It was their version of the Frankencuff made to fit their boots. It works great because it is stiff both under foot and around the cuff. By "great" I mean it turns a plastic mountaineering boot into the lightest AT boot from a control point of view. I bought a pair, but they stopped making it and the next year I called every backcountry shop in the country before I could find another for a friend. Koflach must have paid big bucks for the mold so I don't know why they stopped selling it since their boot line is the same. To be honest, skiing in climbing boots sucks. But I would not carrry a second pair of ski boots. You need to accept that you will be basically traversing most slopes and doing downhill kick turns to change direction.

To answer RBW's astute question about good pro in bad rock: the surface of the rock was flakey and everything that looked like a nice edge pulled off in one's hand. However, the cracks were solid enough to take good cams (or pins). The route is on the downhill (SW) side of I-rock which was somewhat protected from glacial scouring. By the looks of it, I would assume on rock on the prominent wall on the east side is much better since it looks cleanly cut by recent glacial activity.

When I bought BD vipers this year, I was also concerned about how the pommel (AKA "pinky fuck thing") would do on alpine routes and almost ground it off before using. Now I think it has no negatives, makes for a more comfortable grip, and has two unforeseen advantages: 1) on just the right crust, functions as mini ski pole like basket and may prevent plunging on easy, low angle terrain; and 2) makes it harder to get the tool out of my pack's holsters, which can be annoying, but means I don't worry about clipping off the leashes so the tool won't slip out. I realize both these "advantages" may seem pretty silly but pommels are basically fine.

Climbed "Iron Maiden" (5.7, AI2) on I-rock last Friday with Matt Sullivan. The same inversion that is spelling death for the skiing resulted in warm weather and glove-free rock moves. Great route with good (rock) pro but pretty shitty rock. I almost was able to front point into the rock. Proper respect and gratitude to Wayne Wallace for lots of pioneering on I-rock and generating a fantastic topo. Extra special bonus was skiing 2500' of perfect corduroy on Palmer mostly in full sunshine until skiing into dense, dense fog near the bottom. (Raving about c'roy shows what an incredible crap snow year this has been on Hood).

Two replies for the price of one: First, about Hood tele demo days, ask and you shall receive: Just found out that the first of 4 "Tele Tuesdays" is tomorrow night (1/7) at Ski Bowl. Demos and a different race each night. Tomorrow is the uphill/downhill (skin to top, ski down). Call the Mtn Shop for the other three dates. Second, the Hammerhead is far and away the best tele binding on the market and gives me hope that after like 20 years there is finally a real tele binding out there. Slightly heavier than most but can go from having the minimal resistance of a 3-pin (or AT binding, opps!) on the up to easily the most control on the way down. You can make up for the weight by using a lighter pair of boots. What's doesn't make any sense is how heavy boots have become while bindings have remained wimpy. Two years of production and Rainey doesn't even sell spare parts for the HH cuz you don't need them! I'll take a little weight over replacing the crap that dinosaur tele industry has been pushing ("don't try alpine skis, what you really need is a skinny, soft, non-cap, real "tele" ski). Wait a few years and the rest of the industry will "adopt" many of Rainey's HH innovations (like they did with his first binding: compression springs, stainless steel plates, non-standard hole patterns, etc.). How's that for off topic?

Nice freakin' job! I think that route is the best line on Hood, and one of the best in the Cascades. (Pulling over the cornice at the true summit in between a lunch-eating party of Mazamas who just climbed the south side made it a true classic experience for me a few years back.) You guys get lots of bonus style points for the preclimb safety check!

Anyone know any shops in the pacific northwest that stock approach skis (aka firn skis, aka figls, aka AT skis about 130cm)? I am looking for real, waxable skis to use with my plastic climbing boots.

On Friday, Todd Stevens and I climbed the Coe Icefall. Started at about 7500' and exited off at about 9500'. Pretty straightforward route-finding with some very hard water ice in places. The climb is in great shape but the descent took a lot longer than it would earlier in the season due to intermittent water ice making even lower angle slopes thought-provoking.

I haven't been on the Coe in years but think I am ready again. Last time, I approached by Snow Dome via the Elliot and descended to the base of the route. Has anyone used the Timberline Trail/Elk Cove approach to the west lateral Elliot moraine? Has anyone avoided Snow Dome altogether and approached the route directly by hiking up the valley to the base of the Coe (I have no idea if this is even possible)?

The rock near the Falls looks like moss-covered choss. However, the large wall about 1/2-mile down the trail from the falls (with the huge talus apron) looks really nice. No moss but maybe a few token loose rocks for fun. Not a place to look for ice, but a potential great day crag (with an hour approach).

I scoped it, but did not climb. It's a little down my to-do list, but I am very interested in climbing on the main large wall. It looks awesome, but not even the locals on Hood I know know anything about it. I saw only one pin on the largest wall. Let me know if you learn anything more about climbing there.

Who has fondled the new BD Viper? I did last week at New Paltz's Rock and Snow and thought it was pretty cool except the huge curve may make it difficult to use the hammer or adze, and the little pommel may need to be removed for alpine plunging. Beautiful small grift/shaft and same great pick as the Cobra. Why are you cc.com's so hot on the Grivel Alp Wing or Tech Wing? Nice shaft for alpine, but I don't get the appeal.

Sorry to bring the subject back to the traverse, but I have an important question. Let just say that I might have a "friend" doing this route soon. Does my friend need to worry about getting a camping permit if my friend will be spending all his camping time on the ridge way above the masses and the police?

Lowe Alpine Attack 50 (50 liters = 3000 cubic inches). Light, has crampon pouch, removable bivy pad, slots for skis and ice ax holsters, and best racking system (removable underarm slings and built-in vertical gear loops on shoulder straps - the later are the single best way to carry pickets!)

If you wanna see cute snafflehounds like this one on Sleese, you have to find the right parking lots on the approach and on the descent. This is no small task if you follow the awful descriptions and incorrect mileages provided in guidebooks by Beckey, Nelson/Potterfield, and Kearney. Below are exact driving mileages (current August 9, 2002): Drive Hwy 1 to Exit 119. Go South through Sardis on Vedder Road approx. 3.5 miles and turn left immediately before the bridge over the Chilliwack River onto Chilliwack Lake Road (CLR). Descent (Sleese Creek side): Drive 13.2 miles down CLR and make right on Sleese Creek Road (adjacent to a large gravel lot and the entrance to a military base). Drive 3.6 miles, avoiding any smaller spurs. At "Y" take left (signed "New Sleese Cr Trail"). Drive straight past left turn in about 100 yards. At 4.7 miles from CLR, main road takes a sharp left turn and climbs uphill. Although this seems logical don't take it and instead turn down a small road to right and take the left fork (right deadends in 100 yards). Another way to describe this critical intersection at 4.7 miles is to view it as a 3-way intersection: take the middle fork. Go straight down this overgrown road for 0.2 miles to a fork at a wooden frame (for a shooting target?). Turn right and leave car/bike in the clearing. The road to left proceeds about two more miles to the actual Sleese Mt. trailhead but anything short of a monster truck will get stopped by huge waterbars within a half mile. You will be hiking out this road on the descent. Approach (Nesakwatch Creek Road): Return to CLR, and drive 5.6 miles to the Centre Creek/Nesakwatch Rd (At Riverside Campground). Take right, cross the Chilliwack River in 100 yards, and take right at fork in another 100 yards. Drive 3.4 miles to a spur on the right that leads to a small lot at the approach trailhead at the site of a dilapidated cabin. Hope this helps and sorry to ruin it for those who haven't had the joy of trying to figure out where to park using the available guidebooks.