hakioawa

This explains some fractures (e.g. the columns in Vantage), but not those in sedimentary rocks, nor the regional fracture patterns you see in some areas, such as the fins in the Fiery Furnace in Arches park. The way to think about this is that these fractures are not actually big. You need to think at much larger scale. Cooled rock is fairly brittle. Lets say you have say a 10-100 mile unit of homogeneous rock (in plan view) that is say 200' thick. If you put an stress on it, over a long period of time, you'll find that the fractures tend to line up orthogonal (perpendicular) to the regional stress. Take a look at this: See how all the fractures are lined up and vertical? We can conclude that this area is being extended by "tectonic forces" orthogonal to the fractures. In this case I believe it is because a big blob (technical term) of salt a mile or so below is rising to the surface.

Anyone climbed it? If you take the exposure factor out of it, how hard is is? Would you take a newbie up it? We're going to do Owl Rock first and see how it goes. She's climbing well, but never done multi-pitch. Kinda concerns me.

Seems about right to me. Though with a lightweight canister stove and 4oz. of fuel are a great option in a pinch.

I'd like to take 4-5 newbies for their first outdoor experience. The goal is to teach lead belaying, rapping etc., more so than to get a lot of routes in. Any suggestions for this weekend? Vantage will be in, but crowded. Any suggestions in 11worth?

[video:youtube] High Ice!

Managed a VERY slow summit of WH via the standard route. I'll echo nekopunch's comments above. TONS of wet slow moving sluffs the whole way between Lone Tree and High Pass. I don't think these posed significant danger, but going was slow. Once at High Pass, the glacier was pretty solid. We roped up, though probably didn't need to. A couple of the big cracks were starting to open up. The schrund was 95% open, but there was a slight step across on the far left. We had a 30m and put in on picket between the schrund and the summit. Steep, good snow. The last 8' feet has a little ice. Found an anchor on top and belayed down. My guess is the schrund will be impassible within a week, if not by the end of the weekend. Brought: pickets - used snowshoes - used, but shouldn't have 30m - used crampons - not used Good times! [video:youtube]

Yes, I've been thinking the same thing. My guess is that it will either be a)Obvious avy danger, in which case we'll bail b)super soupy, in which case we'll bail c) Not too bad and we'll summit.

Planning a quick jaunt up Whitehorse tomorrow; going by way of the "Whitehorse Glacier" route in the Nelson guide. Nelson recommends only crampons and ice axe. Many of the TRs use full glacier gear. Any recommendations?

Two more deaths. I have it on good authority that at least one was a former Seattleite that some of us know. My condolences to the friends and family. http://www.adn.com/2011/05/26/1884379/2-more-climbers-die-2-hurt-in.html Be safe this weekend.

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Linky

As seen by the Germans: As seen by the French: As seen by the Italians: As seen by the Americans: As seen by the press:

You again? Didn't you get Your ass kicked?

Yeah, but does it have a moat?