slaphappy
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Posts posted by slaphappy
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What routes were stripped?
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I don't know anything about Smith but send your small handed friend up Classic Crack and see if they think it's 5.8! My lady has small hands and swears it's 5.10.
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I believe they are moderators.
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Whatever Pope, although I do like similar characteristics in the bolts I clip and the women I choose to be with. I like them strong, and trustworthy. I prefer tight ones to sloppy loose ones, as well as deep to shallow ones. I'm not really keen of old ones, but if they are in good shape than they may have to do. (I must admit I do use protection whenever available.) Unlike you I can move beyond the common physical attributes and find beauty in diversity.
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Pope, yes I may in fact be an idiot but trust me you stand right along side of me. I simply wanted to know how "the bolts damage things more in the long run than any pitons"? Thanks for your explanation of how that works.
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Please help me clarify something. You said "The bolts damage things more in the long run than any pitons." How? A 3/8" inch hole, once drilled, remains 3/8". Yet every time a pin is pounded in the rock changes, not as quickly perhaps, but with repeat ascents it could (and has) change more than a bolt hole.
I'm going to use DDD as an example, I have no interest in discussing further whether the climb should have been bolted or chopped, it's just a route that is currently familiar to most, was originally done as an aid line, and now gets climbed free. Let's say I decided to work the route in it's present unbolted state. In the "original aesthetic" of the first ascent I use a pin to protect the groundfall posibility instead of a questionable RP. After I finish I pull the pin(s), just as the first ascentionists had done, for fear it would be stolen before I could return. Lets say there are two or three other local climbers with the same agenda. How long would it take before there is "better" clean protection? and/or better holds? Would this be acceptable? (I have no intentions of doing this!)
Once 3/8" holes were drilled the alteration was done, the climb would never change, and in the event of future technological advances the bolts could be removed and the holes filled.
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Pope, you say someone with strong environmental and traditional ethics would also have social ethics preventing them from undertaking these actions. I don't agree with you, but we aren't dealing with someone with traditional ethics. That's just the smokescreen that is being used to justify these actions.
IT IS A COMPLETE LACK OF SOCIAL SKILLS THAT IS THE UNDERLYING FACTOR BEHIND THIS ATROCITY!
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Expect? You said exactly what I expected you to say, Pope! Same old repetitive BS.
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[ 12-02-2001: Message edited by: slaphappy ]
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This action is unacceptable by all standards! Whomever is responsible for these actions is a fool and is jeapordizing access for a HUGE group of people. Somehow, someway these vigil acts must be stopped! How do we do this? any ideas?
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Sorry Mr. Easy, just trying to put off doing something productive.
[ 12-02-2001: Message edited by: slaphappy ]
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Kind of a ridiculous thing to focus on so intensely but, in general, he is right. The whole law/citation BS aside, common sense should tell you that cutting switch backs is detrimental to the hillside, particularly in such a high traffic area. If you were on dirt, that is only because other individuals before you already destroyed the underbrush/growth.As the size of our usergroup grows, the impacts we have on our "playgrounds" is becoming increasingly more visible. One of the simplest things we can do to limit the visible and environmental impact, is all follow the same trail.
To use a few examples...Look at the old trail up to Lake Serene. Sure it was fun and perhaps faster to scramble up the hillside, pulling on exposed roots and rock jugs to the lake. But out of the half dozen or so times I did it I never used the same "trail" twice. In the spring and during heavy rains the "trails" were creeks further eroding the hillside creating permanant ditches. The new trail, although a bit overkill, will eliminate the further destruction of the hillside. How about the trail to Givler's Dome? How many options do you have there. Once again, my many visits have produced just as many approach variations. Check out the impact that has had on the fragile hillside. (Far more of an eyesore than any of the bolts in my opinion.) How about the network of trails on the top of the mesa at Frenchman's Coulee? or the climber's "trail" from Blue Lake TH to the ridge below the South Arete?My point is, if there is an established trail, use it. What a lousy reason to further the restrictions at our playgrounds.
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Flick! Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Gurgle Wooooosh! Ahhhhhhhhh! Good Morning!
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Nine Lives
in Spray
A few seasons back I was leading the second pitch of Princely. I underclinged a large "loaf" of stone as I neared the finish. As I moved up, the "loaf" levered loose and fell straight down toward my belayer. I pitched off and watched in horror, sure my rope was going to be cut or my belayer killed. About ten feet below me the "loaf" relodged itself in the crux flare, missing my rope by inches. I quickly finished, praising the hex that caught my fall. My second oozed by the block without releasing it, there were too many people climbing below to set it free.
The next day it was pulled loose by an acquaintance, slamming into the belay ledge and cutting his trail rope in several locations. Luckily no one was hurt.
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Dave, dude, chill out!
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I don't know about the rest of you, but I'll never see anything on Dan's back. That newbie isn't gonna be in front of me! He'll be fumbling around with shitty pro behind loose flakes, every six or seven feet, on a 3rd class ditch. Or he'll be the moron carrying half his house up the glacier making a 2 day trip out of a half day climb, all the while telling everyone who'll listen how great he is. Just a tip, Dan, put your name tag on the front of your helmet (like the mountaineers) so I can make fun of you by name back at camp, while your still crawling up. On second thought, leave it on the back too. I'm sure I'll pass you on the way up also. I'll be able to ask you to step aside by name so my dope smokin ass can pass by.
Wow, spraying can be fun!
Last thing, Dan sucks!
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Now I'm feeling really guilty. I confess, (although not to Pope. I believe that "fraud" has some of his own sportclimbing confessions to make) I once climbed at WWI. Five or so years ago, an old fling liked going there and well...she was hot. On our third midweek visit we saw our first other climbers, and said our normal "hi" as we crossed Dog Death Ledge. "What are you guys getting on?" one of them ask. "Uh..." I start to answer but was interupted. "We're working this new line, Supercontrivedenigmatic. You clip bolt one of Lizard Breath then head left and clip bolt three thru six of Pornification then head right on I'm Dreaming of Sleaze, clipping bolts seven thru twelve. Now here's the crux, normally you skip bolt thirteen unless your dogging thru, instead stop on the tweaky sloping crimper and make the clip. It's at least 14a if you can make the clip and continue thru the next five clips to the chains." I reply with a glazed stare. "Well we're gonna go over there and do something easy to warm up." We move on as he blows chalk from his finger tips and starts up Superblahblah. Harnesses on my lady starts up her warm up route. "How's the...
"FUUUCK!!! I SUCK I'M THE WORST CLIMBER IN THE FUCKING WORLD!!!"
I wheel around as superclimber "whips" from bolt thirteen of Superblahblah. "Lower me down! I quit!" he says. I look back at my lady as she grabs the draw on the next bolt, "What the hell was that?" she asks. I'm confused and can only shrug. She finishes the route as superclimber repeats his performance. We decide to grab our shit and head outta there. A few years later on a visit to one of the local climbing gyms, I watched superclimber dog his way up a 12b my chick fired up first go, and called "soft". I hate Si!
I feel much better now that that's out in the open.
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I must confess I always thought those shiny things all over the walls at Si were there to hold the rock together. People climb that steep mossy trash pile? Huh.
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This reminds me of a run-in I had at the hut on Muir a few Januarys back. After a passing storm dumped ten inches of fluff on the snowfield, I took advantage of a clear midweek day to enjoy some turns without the hoards. After seeing only a handful of people I reached the hut to find a group of two cowering in the corner. I asked them if everything was "ok", one complained of altitude problems, but said he would be alright. So I went about my buisness, eating some lunch before the blissful run I was about to have. I opened my can of tuna and dumped it on a bagel. I heard some mumbling from one of the two and was approached with the request to take my lunch outside the smell was "making my friend sick". I gave him a dumb blank stare, surely he was kidding. But he wasn't. I could not come up with a suitable response and choose to just laugh instead. They got pissed and stormed out to go puke or something. Who cares?
The fact is climbing is a selfish activity and the people that do it are generaly somewhat selfish. We do what we want when we want, whatever it takes to "enhance" the experience, and are extremely critical when ever someone elses actions detract from our own experience.
Smoking pot in the hut, when occupied by other non-smoker types, is in slightly poor taste (unfortunatley it is illegal
) but deal with it or do something about it. Walking away and snivelling about it later is childish. (although I find it amusing, thanks!)Does anyone remember awhile back, the guy bitchin about sunflower seed shells at the belays in Darrington? Ha Ha! What a ridiculous thing to focus on after doin a great route!
Oh and Dan, if you eliminate all the potential climbing partners that smoke pot or drink while climbing, you will miss out on a core group that could teach a newbie (and you are a newbie!) a lot of useful knowledge. You are far more dangerous with your invincible attitude than any of the experienced "users" are. Lammy is right, check the statistics. Uh, you suck.
Pope, all pot smokers aren't necesarily odorous Birkenstock wearin hippies!
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I don't quite see what your saying Forest. Other than Lammy, we were discussing the Evolution. Which, if your not clear, is the Pulsar with interchangable shafts. This is important information in direct reference to Dennis's original post. You in a round-about-way recommended it yourself. Maybe I missed something?
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Nope Cavey, I haven't had the luxury of trying too many options. They change so fast these days how can anyone keep up? I have tried fixed shaft tools and have not noticed any difference in vibration. (Trango's, BD X-15's, older prophet's) Maybe the Evolution you used was loose. Just my opinion as a non-hardman.
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I have had two Evolutions for four seasons and have had absolutely no vibration problems. (Although, Cavey, I do own a Pterodactyl! Just a museum piece now.)
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Pulsar/Evolution combo rocks! Versatile and reliable. Only drawback is when set up as a glacier tool it weighs a ton.
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On a face to face basis I'm in, but if it's online forget it!
Randonee-VS-Mountaineer boots?
in Newbies
Posted
Check the archives, this has been discussed before. You DON'T want to ski in mountaineering boots if you expect any control, you have no forward lean. A guy mentioned straps from ski tips to the calves, it might work but... get randonee boots.
[ 12-10-2001: Message edited by: slaphappy ]