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slaphappy

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    conditions on the west ridge of Forbidden?

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I climbed the East Ridge Direct this past Sunday with my lady and a party summited via the West Ridge. I spoke with them briefly and am unaware of their abilities, but they belayed 2 pitches of neve/ice in the coulior and I saw them rappel back down. It has a large crack/crevasse approximately midway. They apprached the glacier from the right and then traversed left across slabs, and then straight up to the base of the coulior. If your comfortable with the grade I would recommend the East Ridge, the approach is way more straightforward this late in the season. You may save enough time there to make up for the more technical rock climbing. However, we did not do it car to car, we had other goals that got rained out. As long as you don't have the same slow ass party that was in front of us, it should not be a problem. (I eventually climbed over them exchanging some unpleasantries, they refused passage! They added hours on to our time, and they bailed shortly afterward. There are very few places to pass a party that is uncooperative! Guess that's what I get on a holiday weekend.)

    Who should you believe?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Did the route this past Mon. with a bud. Here's my take...

    Approach- short but grueling, some steep annoying gravel. 4 hours to Col.

    Bivy- excellent;snow patch for water

    Route- about 6 pitches (depending on comfort level) with some easy scrambling. Rock quality was disappointing for a "classic". Beware of other party inflicted rock fall. A few moves of 5.8 on pitch 4ish, mostly 5.6. If in doubt, head right! Last 2 pitches better rock quality, lots of 5.7. 3 1/2 hours to summit.

    Descent- We used double 9's, could have used a single rope. Beware of "rope eating flakes"! 1/2 hour to base.

    Back to car in 2 hours, same annoying gravel.

    All in all a good outing. Have fun!

     

    Best type of car for the cascades?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    David clearly you need to get out more. There are advantages to sleeping in your vehicle. First and foremost the stealth factor. Most trailheads forbid camping in the lot, usually if your in your vehicle you will not get hastled. Alpine starts require having your pack prepacked and ready to grab and go. Extra time spent repacking your bag and bivy, usually carried in the middle to bottom of your pack, means less valuable rest. Returning to your vehicle/bed wasted in the wee hours (quite possibly only to get up and leave again) means no hastle rest. In foul weather you don't always pussy out and run home! You waite it out or deal with it. If you don't your success rate decreases dramaticly. This said I still vote for the 4- runner. Hint: crack the window it won't fog up so bad, dahhh.

    Best type of car for the cascades?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Toyota 4 runner. Can sleep in the back,(unless exceptionally tall) has 4 wheel drive and high clearance. Way more reliable than most anything else. Can squash hoards of Subarus at trail heads! Only drawback is the gas mileage.

    [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 08-21-2001).]

    Pudding Time

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I stand corrected. Before I speculate further I would need to refresh my memory on the "crack" in question. I am not OKing the bolting of a significant crack. My only goal is to stop the destruction of "the aesthetic at the time of the first ascent". Many peoples opinions differ and the "firsts" in this case clearly saw it otherwise.

    Pudding Time

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I think the rest of the smashed hangers should be removed and all the bolts should be replaced in their original holes or as close as possible. This is the way the original first ascent was done.

    Mitch, certainly don't want to discredit your accomplishments, but I heard your gear was placed on rappel.(?) If this is true, it should make a difference to the safety and feasability of a gear lead. Why didn't you do it first?

    As far as a TR goes, this could be OK, but what about the impact to the plant life on the top of the mesa? Isn't more foot-traffic up there one of the things we're trying to avoid? Unlike Red M&M's, There isn't a solid (significantly easier) classic sharing the same anchors.

    [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 08-21-2001).]

    Maybe Silly, but necessary question - Packing

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    A few other suggestions if you don't want to spend $ on an overpriced duffle. Box it, no one will know what the hell is in a random brown cardboard box, plus you can take the time to pack your gear so it is protected. At least use one of those fancy airline supplied heavy plastic bags. You can slide your whole pack in it, protecting it from idiot handlers. Ive done both and either work well. As pointed, don't bring fuel, but if asked about a stove, lie, they just want to see if you might have fuel.(in the stove) I've lied and they don't press the point to hard.

    [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 08-20-2001).]

    Fire on Icicle ridge!?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I was cilmbing with a few friends near Castle Rock and watched a nasty lightening storm plow through the area late sunday afternoon. Noticed shortly afterward a nice sized plume of smoke rising from the top of icicle ridge just west of town. Seemed to grow pretty quick. The wind was present but moderate. Sure wasn't enough rain to help out. Any locals please keep us informed!

    Negativity is bad for our sport

    in Spray

    Posted

    First and foremost I agree with Matt and Peter. I have been lurking and posting on this site for quite awhile and have noticed a number of disturbing realities. The general negative overtone has increased, the threats and aggresiveness have moved from the keyboard and screen to the outdoors, and on a positive note, the amount of "useful" info has also increased with the popularity. The most disturbing to me is the reality of the threats, both to our crags and other individuals. A small group gets them selves all worked up, see they have some support and become the self-appointed ethics police. This "support" is also something I question, multiple posts by the same individuals and newbies taint the legitimacy of the support. I realize everyone has the right to their opinion, but I have seen posters request help on purchasing their first pair of climbing shoes one week, and the following, claim that bolts on particular routes (clearly too difficult for their abilities) are too close or unneccesary. I do not feel everyone has the qualifications to make these sort of rash claims, particularly new climbers or non climbers. This only becomes a problem when a group decides to take action based on these opinions, which is now happening. (I do know that there are also people posting who are legitimate hard asses, my helmet's off to you!) I have made an effort to stick up for what I believe is right or wrong, without being aggresively confrontational, which rarely coincides with the majority of posters on that particular thread. I've been threatened and ridiculed for my opinion. I have concidered stepping out from my anonymity (I agree that it effects the impact of the opinion) but what reassurance do I have that the threats won't be carried out? On the contrary I see just the opposite. Hence the reason I hesitate to show up at any gatherings. Many times I've read "if you knew me/him you'd realize he's a great guy". Actions speak for themselves, how many times does a "great guy" get to screw up before he's not that great anymore? I climb regularly with a very diversified crowd and know no one who supports the actions of a few "chestbeaters" that frequent this site. Why do they not post? It's easier not to, they don't want to get mixed up in the bullshit. Maybe they are smarter than myself for not facing the negativity. By no means do I consider constructive argumentation negative, on the contrary it is quite possitive and I rather enjoy it.

    * and yes Peter there are many good climbs out there that are not publicly disclosed. On this website, if they get posted, the "poster" is portrayed as an egotistical sprayer or an overbolter. It's a shame.

    Where did you start?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Up the ladder onto the roof, age 3. Age 12, my dad bought me a 40 ft. chunk of braided nylon rope and a snap ring. Did laps with friends hand over hand on 30 ft. midwestern sandstone mank, using trees as anchors. Moved to the mountains as soon as possible.

    Dreamer vs Outer Space

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Doing the Remorse start improves Outer Space dramaticly. Walk off is a breeze. Tried Dreamer numerous times, still haven't made it all the way. Always end up? New recent beta may help. Have to go with Orbit currently. Longer than OS, more climbing/less scrambling, and more varied. Same painless walk off. We'll see after I complete Dreamer. Lack of crowds is nice! Snow creek mid-week isn't so bad.

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