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slaphappy

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Posts posted by slaphappy

  1. I'm not sure what ice pitches you refer to... when I did it a few years back we unroped for the chute and hiked up the sun cups. A standard mountain axe was more than sufficient. If your not placing pro, staying roped would only lead to more problems in the event of a fall. Placing pro would take too much time and seems not quite necessary. All depends on your comfort level. It's a great route! bigdrink.gif

  2. specialed-

     

    You're on! That's the main reason I bought it. (wrecked my 2003 RMK this past spring) Of course I am a snowboarder (have a split board) yet ride with primarily skiers. Keeping up has never been an issue...

     

    You have a sled up there on the east side?

     

    To a long and severe winter... bigdrink.gif

  3. I just bought the new 2005 900 liberty 50th anniversary Polaris RMK! This sled rocks! The seat is 4" higher. Totally redesigned front suspension, 10 position handlebars, LED altimeter, thermometer, 159" x 2.4" track, slightly lighter than last years 800, better fuel efficiency, computer chip- so no more jetting for different elevations, and oh so much more!

     

    BRING ON THE SNOW!!!! fruit.giffruit.gif

     

    * A big fat moon.gif to those of you who hate snowmobiles.

  4. where? I'll be floatin around somewhere hopefully with the E Butt slut himself (damn charity case) but debauchery is my middle name and other than possibly you I doubt anyone in the fam would find our antics humorous. So where you gonna be? wave.gif

     

    fruit.gifbigdrink.giffruit.gifhahaha.giffruit.gif

  5. Have you ever successfully removed and reinstalled a 5-piece bolt? I have tried on more than one occasion, I was semi succesful once (had to add a washer to tighten it completely) and that was only a day or two after placing it (a spinner) I have seen it posted on here before that they are replaceable, I call bullshit. After any significant amount of time (one winter) it is impossible to retrieve the wedge stuck in the hole. You can try wire or whatever but the oxidation will prevent success. Trying to rethread the bolt into the imbedded wedge may work but I doubt it will tighten sufficiently without some funk. The replaceable part is a myth from those who haven't tried it.

     

    Make friends with some of the local shop employees/owners, I'm sure they will sell you quatities of hangers at a discounted rate.

     

    Leavenworth Mountain Sports carries Madrock hangers.

     

    bigdrink.gif

  6. Alpinfox

     

    I would seriously discourage the use of those Fixe anchor things. (none of those at the Gates hellno3d.gif) (I know Mattp would disagree) Once they wear to the point of danger there is no good way to replace the worn parts. Adding new ones creates more holes and a mess in my opinion. I prefer the setup like the ones used at the Pearly Gates. 2 hangers, 2 bolts (somewhat equalized) a 5 or 7 link 3/8" chain connected to the hangers with a minimum of 5/16" quick links. (an odd number of links assures the bottom link is in the correct orientation) THE BEEFIER THE BETTER! All wearable parts are easily replaceable without a drill.

     

    I buy setups at Lowe's for the most part, they seem to be the cheapest. 3/8" zinc plated chain runs $2.98 a foot, 5/16" quicklinks run $2.19 and 7/16" (better!) run $2.69, I get hangers for about $1.60 depending on the brand. I'm currently a huge fan of the new Madrock hangers strong, lightweight, super small profile and a dull finish so they don't gleem from far away, and you can rap directly through the hangers. I buy bolts from Western Fastners 3/8" x 2 1/4" run $1.30ish each if you buy a box of 50. The 3" ones are a bit more, wedge anchors are about $.25 in boxes of 50 or more.

     

     

     

    bigdrink.gif

  7.  

     

    "and a warm thanks slapphappy for his positive feedback and unending support...." yellaf.gif

     

    * oh that's good! wave.gif

     

    I believe yesterday I congratulated them on a fine climb, why did that get pulled????? Not positive enough?

     

    What I don't understand is what the big mystery is about a climb that has been repeated numerous times, for years. Why the need for self promotion and "secret" beta. Last I noticed it was in the Nelson guide. Whatever, I could care less...

     

    Nice job NOLSE and partner!

     

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