slaphappy
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Posts posted by slaphappy
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So................
Now that the Icicle's all logged to rat-shit, and heavily salted with fancy houses and privatepropertykeepoutsigns, and fully regimented with legalities of paying to camp, and paying to park, and paying to hike, and fairly well overrun to boot, and...............well golly, in short, now that the Icicle's pretty well fucked up in all possible ways: Folks gonna come along and say it's been saved because they're not gonna drill a little bitty hole in the side!
I guess I disagree.
Thank you. I'm happy the physics project has been aborted, but your paragraph nicely summarizes how I feel. Man has certainly changed the Canyon in the last 20 years. Climbers included.
I don't fully disagree with some of what you say but how about setting the negativity aside once and celebrate this small victory, I mean at the very least what you despise so greatly (developement) has been reduced. Is this not a step in the right direction? or have you simply given up?
Little bitty hole? You know damn well the impact woulda been far greater than that, further road "improvements", loss of roadside parking, further land closures, large trucks every few minutes, water use issues, noise/light pollution, the list could easily go on...
Perhaps we should gate the canyon at the sleeping bitch and only let people with your "supreme ethical standards" pass through.
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...absolutely amazing news!!!!!!
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Not likely to go anywhere real quick, that crag isn't visited all that often. If you're over there again soon it would be worth your while to run up and check.
Did you do Dirty Deeds? How was it? I always thought there would be a good free route just to the right up some features and a dirty crack that I'm sure would clean up to be pretty good.
Hope you get your shit back.
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It was a bit "chewey" but other than that no probs. I have been drinking out of lakes, streams, and sess pools in that area for 12+ yrs, never have caught anything.
* found out about that plane wreck if you're curious.
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Bah, those ladies hike way to damn fast to be noticin any flowers... now drunk fat old farts like me, well...
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Jeebus, chill out.
Let's not forget that those "once clean cracks" were once lines of moss, dirt and shrubs. Hard labor made them the clean classics they are today. It will grow back, and astonishingly fast.
Perhaps this individuals timing was bad for you but don't completely stifle someones rewardless efforts.
What does the temps of a summer day have to do with cleaning dirt?
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Yes gyselinck you are right, the summit is way south (west of Prusik) from Dragon's Teeth but they are still considered on the flanks of Enchantment. They hold ice late into the spring that is easily viewed from the road. Best view is from top of Cannon coulior, pretty sure I have a pic from there from a few winters back, I'll check.
* yeah, that plateau sucks!
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Spill the beans
..and Peter, how was Jupiter?
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gyselinck
Dragon's Teeth aren't any where near Cashmere, they are up Rat Creek. More of a sub-summit of Enchantment Peak.
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Goats hate dogs, leave the mutt home.
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Cashmere totally kicks ass!
Those burns aren't from last year, that's from 1994, I believe. Last years fire was on the steep N slopes of Cashmere just slightly west of Lake Victoria, near the Doctor Creek drainage. No reason any one should be hiking over there
...now snowboarding on the other hand... -
bouldering is "real" climbing.
"roped-rock climbers" engage in assisted dabbery.
you can't possibly be serious...
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Didn't notice anything out of the ordinary goin on in the Icicle Sat. or Sun. I spoke with a hospital employee last night around 8:00PM, no mention of any accident or fatality. Of course he is a bit
at times... sure hope it's not true... -
Qwest works at Ingraham Flats, Camp Hazard and the summit.
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There is some new route development on the east side of the tower that might be worth checking out.
Not on the tower proper but near by.
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If you don't trust someone to do a change over, you can feed the rope through the chains, then attach a doubled-up sling with two biners (or however long you need it) to the bolt, and clip the rope in the draw to take the weight off the chains. This way the top-roper can just climb up, unclip the draw, and they are back on the chains ready to be lowered.
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Some of you are making a mountain out of a mole hill. I will occasionally TR a "newer" climber directly through the chains if I fear they will not make it up the route or if they are not comfortable switching the anchor over. Unless you're doing it on 5 Gallon Buckets at Smith or some extremely over used area, big deal, steel chain does not wear out that fast.
If you see me do it, go ahead and say something to me, here's my response:
you! Better yet mind your own buisness. And yes, I have and do add or replace chains often. 
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Ben's right, slabs look far better and more continuous from the road than they actually are.
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737 miles. I wasn't far off considering I was shooting from the hip. Congrats on gettin hitched. My truck? gee big surprise.
but did you see the route? When you climbed it, was it contrived?
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larry
although I agree that the route is... well, silly. (woulda been much better left as a toprope w/ the anchors actually at the top of the "cliff") Have you even seen it? Do you know it's a contrivance? Don't you live like 1000 miles from L-town?
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Slaphappy, quit being a dick.
Never.
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hasn't doorish climbed all the cracks on that side of the Mole?
All? Doubtful. Many? Absolutely.
As usual, Layton, it's your prima-donna attitude that blows.
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Longpause, that is The Shrew, Croc Fang isn't visible from there.
Layton, keep it on your "don't bother list" there isn't any good stone up there it's all short, contrived, and crowded. It's super obvious from the road that nothing up there could possibly be more than three pitches.
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[TR] Colchuck Peak- Northeast Buttress 6/26/2005
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
Good route! better than it's neighbor Serpentine in my opinion, but I would recommend the Kearney start to Boxcar ledge instead of Beckey's standard description. More climbing on better stone make it the preferred start.