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slaphappy

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Posts posted by slaphappy

  1. Yes gyselinck you are right, the summit is way south (west of Prusik) from Dragon's Teeth but they are still considered on the flanks of Enchantment. They hold ice late into the spring that is easily viewed from the road. Best view is from top of Cannon coulior, pretty sure I have a pic from there from a few winters back, I'll check. bigdrink.gif

     

    * yeah, that plateau sucks!

     

     

  2. Cashmere totally kicks ass! thumbs_up.gif

     

    Those burns aren't from last year, that's from 1994, I believe. Last years fire was on the steep N slopes of Cashmere just slightly west of Lake Victoria, near the Doctor Creek drainage. No reason any one should be hiking over there cantfocus.gif ...now snowboarding on the other hand... fruit.gif

  3. If you don't trust someone to do a change over, you can feed the rope through the chains, then attach a doubled-up sling with two biners (or however long you need it) to the bolt, and clip the rope in the draw to take the weight off the chains. This way the top-roper can just climb up, unclip the draw, and they are back on the chains ready to be lowered.

     

     

  4. Some of you are making a mountain out of a mole hill. I will occasionally TR a "newer" climber directly through the chains if I fear they will not make it up the route or if they are not comfortable switching the anchor over. Unless you're doing it on 5 Gallon Buckets at Smith or some extremely over used area, big deal, steel chain does not wear out that fast.

     

    If you see me do it, go ahead and say something to me, here's my response: the_finger.gif you! Better yet mind your own buisness. And yes, I have and do add or replace chains often. wave.gif

  5. larry

     

    although I agree that the route is... well, silly. (woulda been much better left as a toprope w/ the anchors actually at the top of the "cliff") Have you even seen it? Do you know it's a contrivance? Don't you live like 1000 miles from L-town? rolleyes.gif

  6. Longpause, that is The Shrew, Croc Fang isn't visible from there.

     

    Layton, keep it on your "don't bother list" there isn't any good stone up there it's all short, contrived, and crowded. It's super obvious from the road that nothing up there could possibly be more than three pitches. rolleyes.gif

  7. Anyone ever climb "Goat Sick" near bathtub dome???

     

    This is the second time you asked about it, why? Is it inordinately good?

     

    I thought it looked intriguing years ago but after closer inspection thought it looked hard to get on and the whole left side of the crack looked completely detached. With all the good stone in the area it just didn't seem that worth it. Was I wrong?

     

    bigdrink.gif

  8. 2nd pitch of Poultry was done about 1.5 years ago. It joins pitch 2 of honkey's at the 2nd or 3rd bolt and seems about 5.8+ maybe 5.9. It was never cleaned...

     

    Sweet home is just out of photo on left.

     

    Heads starts left of CA and aims for the obvious break in the middle of the overlap 80'-100' up. From there it stays 20'-50' left of CA (skirting large roofs on the right) until about 1 long pitch from the top where it breaks further to the left on easier ground.

     

    Expect dirt, ticks, moments of terror, and of course, loads of fun.

     

    bigdrink.gif

  9. What exactly is so dumb about snowboarding? Newbies that don't know how to point their shit downhill suck but so do skiers that don't know how to ski.

     

    Now tele skiing, that's dumb...

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