slaphappy
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Posts posted by slaphappy
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all claims of BP guarding the gates of "Bumdom" are true, he's a full on charity case, yet he is one of the finest partners I know of... motivation? not an issue... step up to the plate? he's first in line
BP- I'll trade you the use of some cams for a copy of some of those pics,
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3 Pabst tall boys, a few rounds of
and 30 "dreamy" minutes in my presence. -
Bitch needs to tighten up...
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Why do you need a climbing specific hammer? I have used both an Estwing and a Vaughn rock/brick hammer for quite some time. I have a Yos hammer and it sits in a box in my basement. If your doing any hand drilling the Yos sucks. The rock hammers clean cracks way better as well. I have done a few aid routes involving strteches of nailing and can't give you a draw back, of course I haven't nailed a route with the Yos. Both rock hammers ran about $35.
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Hey all, I need some help in planning a climbing trip to the Cascades. I've lived in Seattle all my life, but recently moved to Ketchum, Idaho. Well, I'll be back in town the first weekend of June and want to climb something.
Do you think the following trip would be possible to do in two-three days:
Friday night - hike into Dragontail Peak
Saturday morning - Climb Dragontail via the fin (carrying overnight gear)
Saturday afternoon - hike over to Prussik Peak
Sunday morning - climb Prussik SF
Sunday afternoon - hike out (and if we're superfast, blaze up Outerspace)
Sunday evening - pick up the car at the other trailhead, drink beers at Uncle Uli's
Well, what do you think, is it in the realm of possibility? It's either that or Liberty Ridge.
Thanks for the help
I'm not sure how it is so easy for folks to generate an answer to your question over the internet. As JoshK pointed out, it may be feasible for some to complete your objective in a day (brutal) but far more only complete Backbone in your allotted time frame. You know your and your partners abilities better than us and could answer the question more acurately.
Good luck!
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Love it! I have a Pika Mntneering and a Rockpecker, I never use the Pika anymore. The set screw on the Pika is a major pain in the ass. It comes loose after a few dozen blows and your constantly stopping, locating the allen wrench and tightening it so the bit doesn't fall out. I have dropped more than one allen wrench and lost a few set screws as well, so carrying extras was necessary. The Rockpecker has a "tool-less" chuck that seems to hold the bit well. I haven't logged a bunch of time with the Rockpecker but it's lighter, has less loseable parts, and doesn't require tools to change bits. In my opinion this makes it superior to most of the others on the market.
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I have a new (still has the plastic band thingies) 50m 10.2 bluewater (not possitive on the 10.2, I would have to check) that I would gladly trade straight across.
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Give the roadside shizzy a rest, obsessive one.
Doin Thur.-Mon. in a super double top secret hush hush spot, guarded by a brutal approach. You're more than welcome to join the festivities if you promise to hump me some
. There will be 4-5 others so partners won't be an issue. Let me know if you want to go.*nice pic!
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Got in 6 pitches on Sat. (Yard Art, W. Face Peak-a-boo Tower, Snaakes, Animal Farm) before the consistent piss began. Saw lots of "climbers" wanderin around starin up
shoulda just got busy instead of waitin to see if the rain was gonna stop, start again, or continue. As usual, lots of .Damn were there a lot of boaters around this weekend.
Pope, was that you in Gustav's?
Holy shiite does that Gwen Stefani do it for me!
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Well stated, Matt!
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The author of the article was not one of the FA's. Why is it so surprising that they don't read this sight? Most of the people I climb with don't read it either, I often wonder why I do.
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I would not recommend "retro bolting" any route without discussing it with the guys who put it up. If a party doesn't have the skills to complete the route, there are chains and they can easily bail, seems safe enough to me.
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Yes, perplexing in deed. I remember saying, this can't be right, even the 5.1 pitch had one stinkin bolt on it. There were so many on the slab I remember walking past most of them to clip every couple bolts. It just doesn't make sense.
I agree the jog to the right could be for alleviating rock fall on the belayer, good point. I will however still accuse them of ego boosting and spite for that pitch. I might not if they would have posted a topo or chimed in on the CC.com about how to get past that pitch, but they didn't. Makes me kinda wonder.
They thought the area in question was 3rd/4th class and didn't require bolts.
From your posts, it sounds to me like you might be the one with the ego issues.
They may not read the drivel on cc.com, so why should they respond?
If you aren't comfortable doing the route without a topo, why did you do it?
It has been common knowledge that there are route finding difficulties. Why go up there with that knowledge and then come back and make a big stink about it? If you're not comfortable with it, don't do the route! Can't you come up with something nice to say?
This is why people will not post new route info on this sight. After all their hard work for others, you're bitchin about their egos. You should re-evaluate your stance.
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Nah...my comparison is fine. Any reasonably fit person can ride a snowmobile. It's an aside point from the actual argument, but I'm not gonna sit and watch somebody claim it as some sort of legitimate form of excercise.
Have you actually ever been to morowitz meadows or whateer it's called? It's disgusting there after a weekend of snowmobile use.
I wasn't aware we were discussing a particular meadow, I was commenting on your blanket statement "machines have no place in the alpine, end of story". Why, are there oil cans and beer bottles strewn about? I doubt it. I would consider riding over an expanse of exposed meadow an example of poor judgement.
Exercise? I don't think anyone called snowmobiling exercise. It is undeniably physically demanding though.
I have far better things to do than argue about this any further. I can agree to disagree.
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St Helens is open to snowmobiles, except for designated areas...
Yes, we are painfully aware that we have to pay to climb where you get to go for free.
Free? Hardly. Registration is around $50 a year per sled, not to mention trailers.
Whoopee! We pay (in season) $15 every damn time we want to go - unless you buy the "volcano pass" bs. But wait - you get a Snowpark permit FREE! with your $50 registration! Trailers are a motor vehicle fee. Bitch at the DMV
First of all, I have and do pay the same fee you do when I "climb" MSH as well as my $50 to use my sled, which incidently I have not and wouldn't take on MSH for my own particular reasons. Secondly if I'm paying $50 for my registration and snowpark pass, how is that free?
JoshK- your comparison is weak. They are both physicaly demanding in different ways. Machines may not have a place in the designated wilderness (something which there is plenty of in this state) but they do have a place in the alpine if good judgement is used.
Some of you really need to be a bit more tolerant of other user groups.
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Cracked, have you ridden a mountain sled for any amount of time? Clearly not. Most 'bilers old and fat, I think not. Multipleuse is spot on about the physical demands of snowmobiling. I'm strong and in fine shape and I come home worked after a day of riding in the mountains. (There are plenty of old, fat, beer schwilling "climbers" as well) Get over yourself little man.
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St Helens is open to snowmobiles, except for designated areas...
Yes, we are painfully aware that we have to pay to climb where you get to go for free.
Free? Hardly. Registration is around $50 a year per sled, not to mention trailers.
For the sake of further diminishing my popularity on this BB...
I have an extremely hard time believing some of these stories. I just don't see the "hooligans" described here. I feel many of your preconceived notions regarding this user group clouds reality. As a climber, bc snowboarder, and snowmobiler, I have not noticed "oil cans", "parts" or an abundance of "beer cans". (in snowmobile areas vs. non-snowmobiling areas)
There is no need to carry extra oil on any modern sled. They are all oil injected and have a reservoir that holds enough for multiple tanks of fuel. All of the high performance mountain sleds use a full synthetic oil and not much at that. (2-3 gallons per 1000 miles) An effort has been made to improve the stench, although their sucess is debatable. The only reason parts would be left behind is due to an accident (they happen) and everyone I know makes an effort to remove all traces. I can't remember ever seeing any in the places I frequent. (never ridden on Baker, that interferes with cragging season) Beer cans seem to sprout up where people go, I don't think blaming it on snowmobilers is very objective.
I use my sled primarily as a tool to access the bc with my split board, but would be a liar if I said I don't go "whip shitties" a few times a season. Highmarking is a hell of a rush not dissimilar to the one achieved by bc skiing or climbing. I do see sleds in areas that they are not supposed to be in but I think ignorance is most often the reason. It is particularly difficult in the winter to determine exactly where the boundaries are, even more so in some of the less used areas and poor weather conditions. Poachers should be held accountable for their actions.
I disagree with you JoshK, I do think the alpine is a fine environment for snowmobiling if good judgement is used.
Snowmobiles have been a part of my life since I can remember. I will continue to use one as a tool to access the best bc snowboarding the cascades has to offer and an occasional day out high-marking with friends.
I have probably the only Polaris RMK in the state with a snowboard rack mounted on the back so if you see me (doubtful) I would be happy to give you a tow or a ride up to a trailhead and share a
(I pack out my cans!) Damn, I'm ready for winter again! -
Weak, Dustin, very weak. (as the joke goes)
As far as the climbing, we all have to start somewhere and the South Ditch is a fine starting point.
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Uh, I think the jokes on you there, Dustin. I believe he meant that you were making a "climbing route" of the South Ditch and he uses it as a descent hike. You'll catch up, captain.
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Sheesh BP, don't you ever climb anything other than that meidiocre choss heap?
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Awesome place! I got a guide at the visitors center for $10.50 that worked well. I was there for only a few days and was only able to climb one of them. (the day after the voluntary closure) We did Soler grade II 5.9-, it was an outstanding handcrack/ layback, fairly sustained, and a full 3 star value. We camped at a free (donations accepted) camp ground just outside the park that served a great breakfast. I look forward to returning someday, it was one of those "magic" type spots for me.
* be sure to sign in at the visitors center before climbing, we did not and caught a tiny bit of crap for not doing so.
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Mattp? anyone? know why Weiland/Steve hasn't released a topo or "finished" the approach as it was?
Leland does have a topo although I don't have a copy. No clue what you mean about "finishing the approach as it was"
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Peter, what's PRB?
tsk tsk did someone start the day out right?
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well crap, why didn't you remind me not to lock my keys in the car?
no need to kill the snakes and no need to steal the trees!
nothing like carbo loading to start the day off right
In that sea of mounties? I just assumed you were one of those clowns. Guess I shoulda known since you were'nt wearin a helmet while walkin thru the parking lot.
...and let's not kid anyone, I wasn't carbo loading, I was lookin to tie-one-on for the schwack up to Tumwater Tower.
Slab Climbing Shoes
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I think it kinda depends on if you're an edger or a smearer. A frequent partner of mine is an edger and uses a board lasted shoe to stand on the micro edges. I believe he uses the Sportiva Focus. I tend to drop my heels and smear, even on small edges, and prefer a much softer shoe without a board. I love the Scarpa Marathons with that EVA sole and had good past success with the Mythos although they did not fit my feet properly.
cheers!