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Beck

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Everything posted by Beck

  1. Beck

    To All Those Who Say

    we could have been climbing, then fishing over in the tumwater today, boys... the salmon were JUMPING today, 2 foot salmon, all pooled up, could have been a fish on every cast.... and the climbing was pretty damn fine too
  2. nice work to whoever put up nut house and puzzle palace, real good job! we were up there today, messing around. Andy sent something to some chains on something that wasn't in the book. good job on the new development, but why did you put the rocks so high up the hill?
  3. my soft shells today for light rain and 60 in the icicle canyon and the tumwater (nice new routes, boys! excellent work on the nut house and puzzle palace!!!) tan stretch knickers of dubious vintage and a heavy cotton button up shirt with collar, but not white! too much grubbing today, i reserve the white shirts for up in the enchantements...
  4. Wow, klenke, thas' HEAVY man, like, woah.... dude, my brain is undergoing entropy unlike many of the rest of my tissues...whats up with that, man?... No, and dru, those names would have NEVER gotten censored in any guide I would do, it's just the incredibly offensive ones.... "sheep buggerer" would be appropriate, i think
  5. actually, kurt, i'd be happy to talk about me bruising my ribs falling off the hangboard, and my AA roomate busting my thumb, but this thread isn't about that. why you thought that i don't know, but it shows you are a total moron. you turned it into a spray about your ass and shoving belay devices up your climbing friend's asses out in the trees-beyond me, boy. did you get togther with your friends tonight for some "anal-asis?" and analize some of your "self worth issues"? i was having fun in town. not climbing.
  6. wow, three pages of interest in my weekend in town, you homies must really be bored. wow, and full of such misinformation over technical gear too, i believe sphinx doesn't have a clue what he's talking about, those lockers aren't going anywhere. I'll belay a leader with one biner and the gigi because i know how to do that, if you guys need diagrams and a company website to figure out plate devices, you must be mounties! right out of basic class.... half you people thought I was mispelling GriGri, hosers, there were a couple who knew the difference between plaquette vs. TRS, rachet assisted rope cams... and i was out in town, not climbing, and had the best day of the summer, with my friends, not climbing....
  7. Beck

    Food

    that price discrepancy about drink there versus takeaway is commonly called a "corkage fee" that restaurants here in america also exercise from time to time. And keep in mind, to, most houses go for a three time markup on wine they buy for the patrons, then tax on a fixed amount for handling, called "corkage fee" the euros are masters at figuring out how to maximise a restaurant tab, there are all sorts of extra "tips " added to most.... and the automatically add the tip in many countries too! and with wines in america, you can bring your own wine into many finer restaurants, but most will charge a corkage fee. except on special nights...
  8. racy names with an element of double entendre really showcase the brillance of climbers sending FA'S out there, and infantile, juvenile, blatently offensive and pornographic route names make climbers look bad. naming a route " I fucked your mother" is a bit disappointing, "the mom connection" is subtle and means the same to me if i was the one naming it. this mirrors society becoming increasingly self interested and less involved with group dynamics or feeling a sense of responsibility of community, and how we leave things for our kids... a story about naming peaks and routes, a few guys were up climbing in the north cascades back in the day, and they were all named richard. They sent a good FA or maybe it was even an unamed peak, and wanted to call the route "the three dicks" these Gentleman dirtbag climbers refrained, because of the possible scandal over that name and the discrediting of the climbers community. now, we are enculturated to think "shock value" makes quality in all sorts of media and semantics issues in this country. However, being an editor and writer, and responsible for publication of a 15,000 copy run publication, know, professionally, there is little room in publishing for "pornographic" phrases, and YOU'D BETTER BELIEVE an editor has a compelling interest in not engaging the readers in a smut fest with pornographic imagry or verbage and will most likely censor this. We are bound to decency and respect for readers, unless, of course, we publish Maxim, Cosmo, the New Republic, or more vivid pornography. want a cool name that will get published? think up something SNAPPY and filled with INNUENDO. not " my dick is biggest cause i can suck it myself," or "your mamas cunt is filled with puss." call them "superrichard" or "stinkysnapper" got the idea? innuendo, or else you just show the world how infantile climbers are. and most of us aren't infantile. think about young climbers and the families. do you think a family is going to show their daughter " lesbian love tool" or "dicksuckers anonyomous" to their kids as climbs? think about it, boys, let's all grow up! "sapphic addictions", probably okay. "lesbian super vibrator up the twat without a stop",PROBABLY going to get a abbreviation in a guide book. my 2 cents, coming from the publishing arena
  9. thanks for many of the valuable responses. i am working on a plan to dismantle, neutralize and disloge the fee demo, and will be talking with Andy Fitz thursday on the correct way to bring this to the politicos. this was a post for access issues, not about me personally. i will be mentioning the avalanche funding center primarily at this event: i feel privledged and lucky to be able to lobby for positive change. anyone interested in scoping issues for spring 04 PM me. again, thanks for all your input. I know what climbers want. we want to be left alone and not to have to pay larry the tool to park on public land. thanks again!
  10. on boots, watch out for the new style eyelets seen on some of the scarpas, we had two pair of brand new scarpas come back to the shop with busted eyelets and virtually no other wear. they were the blue ones, not the freneys. if you are boot shopping at the boot wall, look at that hardware on those boots and avoid it on any other boots you see, they are weak weak weak not like the old school stainless D my 19 year old mountain boots still have good eyelets, and that beeswax talk about it "rotting boots" is just horse crap pushed by the nixwax company... i know some of you have different ideas, but I've used snoseal on these since day one , and my 19 year old, seriously thrashed, thrice resoled, twice relined in heel boots are still in good shape avoid the scarpa new eylets, and use plenty of snoseal or biwell or some serious shadizzle you can get from montana that's even got propolis in there, the stuff behives are made from, that is some super waterproof tough shit! get it at the boot shop on 45th between 5 and 99 next to the bike shop and erotic bakery. get trask a cake if you're stopping by.
  11. you guys should look for some of the high altitude boots antonali boukereev (sp) used up to 22,000 in the himalya....
  12. adventure gal, head back to where you took that picture, with a wetsuit, and a surfboard or a kayak- big wave season starts up on superior for the next two months, adventure gal... head over to marquette, you can try to get yourself killed playing in waves often bigger than atlantic coast breaks... i've been out on days people died just down the beach (3 times) and superior swallows a few people every year, unfortunately... we'd surf in 6mm and full hoodies, till we got so numb we couldn't talk! One session on a GREAT fall day, breaking 46 inside, 8-12 outside the water was freaking 38 degrees! 2 degrees celcius! nippy! insane! and a helluva lot of fun! if you need to borrow any equipment, a buddy of mine reps boards up there, i can give you his number if you want.... what fun! I miss lake superior, 3 buck pasty stands and solid short glacially polished granite- Marquette has a 70 foot detached sea stack with a couple bolts right inside the city limits, and a two mile bouldering traverse, again, right in town..... have fun where you are at, adventure gal, there's some great stuff up there- head up to copper country and find that seven mile long 100 foot tall wall, for some first ascents ready for the poaching....
  13. boy, kurt, you're maybe on to something in regards to the Access Fund, I'm working WITH the Access Fund a bit nowadays- Andy Fitz and I go over to Leavenworth Thursday to meet with the FS and, (get this Kurt) go do some climbing! and plan for 2004. our next event is expressively not a big climbers party but thats all i can say about that right now... its not ego, kurt, it is group spirit. you have got me confused with someone else i guess... i think i will stick with the avalanche center funding. the summit at snoq is one of the biggest supporters of this event ,so avalanche center is a good spin off topic.... I will get a package and sound bites developed on this topic... thanks you guys!!! sample sound bite "the state needs to get past our Eyman Angst and return to taking care of valuable resources like the avalanche center" thanks again! Beck
  14. that's okay kurt, you and them don't have to. i'm asking for issues you guys are concerned about. this isn't about me, it's about access issues and climbing. thanks again!
  15. as a quick aside, the nature of language and the reshaping of semantics aroud these words has corrupted the nature of what these words represent. it is possible to have a leftist conservative. take, for example, the raping of the EPA and the considerable repeal of many laws designed to protect the environment in this country. a conservative would say, "leave things as they are" bush is not being conservative in natural resource protection. it is the "leftists" up in arms trying to protect valuable legislation from the past 3 decades (even more if all the issues are on the table, this means big ones like clean air and clean water acts) against the progressive businessmen masquerading as polititians in this administration. left can be conservative. particularily when the right is so wrong.
  16. the vasques arent even in full production is what i heard.... go for a boot like thermo cerro torre by scarpa, etc....
  17. and thats your opinion, kurt. thanks.
  18. i was just posting what i did this weekend, mounties! and i wasn't climbing! good work, gumbies.. you really understand belay there, you need a manual to explain dubious euro speak on a time tested device... you guys were interested in what i did, ADE, or was it marylou, this went to two pages on the fun i had not climbing... i was in town, not climbing......
  19. belay devices besides (you mounties, with all your Danger! warnings are such thinkers!) i had a nice time in town ,not climbing. it was fun.
  20. Jay- I only read the post, and have this to say "if you're not a liberal at thirty you have no heart, and if you aren't conservative by age fifty you have no sense!" quoting unknown source... I always have aspired to join, then "subvert from within" like a good little radical...
  21. 'yeah, i'm a mountie. i can't figure out how to make the gigi work" thanks alpine K, and it DOES look like less trouble up the butt, and still work about thesame in the dynamic layout of the reverso, wouldn't you think? hmm, i never thought "up the ass" was a place to store gear. sounds like some of these posters have already been experimenting!!!
  22. and a loose catch means... less impact force on the anchors? if you can't arrest a leader fall by rope bending around ANY device3, you'd probably be better off watching sunday afternoon football. someone, chime in with "there's NO WAY you can catch a fall with an ice axe!!! you need a belay device!"
  23. the b-52 looks very solid and most of the wear should be in the thicker cross sections of the device if you are catching holds correctly... and gigis let you rig auto block, or not, just like the B-52... my 2 cents.
  24. anyone that has experience with plates not holding belays chime right in then... a plate is a plate is a plate, in this climbers book... b-52 is a plate, the stitch is a plate, the atc is a plate, the gigi is a plate, these are all plate devices. the reverso is even a plate belay device... you guys can't hold a leader fall on a b-52 or an ATC... Huh? they all work on how many bends you put in a rope, nothing more... this isn't rocket science, thank god... and alex, i'm curious.... you say it doesn't work... WHY? doesnt it? because you can't rig it?
  25. yes. i was already apraised of this. so, the 1cm of aluminum, this worries you and your climbing buddies? or is it the retaining cable? people have rapped and belayed with a pin on a non locking oval as well as plenty other rather questionable methods, i wouldn't worry too much about the B-52 unless you thought you were going to drop it! and a brake bar carabiner should always be round. You were talking "brake bar" when you said anchor, sorry. I'm still following you, don't worry...
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